Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Internet-Free Zone



On Friday, we left the beach-scene of Cancun and entered an internet-free zone in the centre of the Yucatan peninsula, hence the date of this posting.

At Glen's conference an invited speaker gave an interesting talk on Mayan science and all spouses were encouraged to attend. It was an update on what has been discovered about the Mayan over the last few decades. Afterwards, I packed for our trip to Mayaland. We were checked out of the Hilton and on the buses by noon. Our boxed lunch was incredible with two large sandwiches, a cookie and fruit as well as a bag of chips. This was washed down with lots of beer.

We travelled across the Yucatan to Ek Balam, a recently unearthed Mayan site (it was discovered in 1886 but not excavated until 1987). We had a Mayan guide who taught us the significance of the various buildings and roads. 'Ek Balam' means black or night jaguar in Mayan. The tomb of one of its king, Uki-Kan-Lek-Tok, dominates the site and it is here you see beautiful sculptures created from limestone. One can climb the pyramid to the top and get a feel for the size of the city. The steps are treacherous and descending can be frightening for anyone who has a fear of heights. There are no ropes or railings to cling to so you are on your own.
The site has a small ball court and several buildings which would have housed the nobility of the city and its priests. These ruins are not well known so one can explore them unfettered but my impression is that this won't last much longer as many feet have worn away the soft limestone already.

Mayaland is an oasis in a rainforest and welcomed after the heat (35 degree C)
of Ek Balam. Originally, it was the Chichen Itza hacienda until Fernando Peon bought it and the surrounding Mayan ruins to create a hotel for those who wished to see the antiquities. His family continues to operate it and other resorts on the property. We stayed in bungalows of three suites connected together by a veranda. We enjoyed the evening chatting with our neighbours on the porch, the night air alive with the sound of frogs and insects.
But, before this relaxing time, we had a Mayan feast that featured music, dancing, and a human sacrifice (it was very subtle and only a few witnessed it). Oh and lots of food! My favourite was a Mayan dish called Cochinita Pibil which is marinated pork in banana leaves. A tiny Mayan woman made fresh tortillas over a small fire. Tamales, refried beans, stewed chicken, and fruit all had to be tasted. I put some very hot green chili sauce on my plate which must have been made with habenaro peppers. The gentleman beside me gracious gave me his bottled water to cool my mouth.