Weather for ducks

We heard the rain pattering on the glass roof of the swimming pool all night. As the last day we'd spend in Slovenja dawned, it was still pouring. We were up early and had breakfast before deciding golf would not happen. After we cancelled our tee time, we met Tanis in the lobby ready to embark on a trip to the Bled Island. Glen convinced me to join her as I really wasn't keen.

We walked down to the boat dock and instead of the open, quaint boats we'd seen plying the water, we were told to enter an enclosed, motorized one. Considering the weather, this seemed like a good idea. While our captain tried to drum up more business we watched the ducks and swans gathering on the dock. Even they seemed to enjoy the shelter the trees provided.

Over the previous days, we'd seen rowers out on the lake. There were permanent starting gates and lane markers near the centre of town. On this Saturday morning,we watched them set up to race despite the pouring rain. In 2011, Bled hosts the World Rowing Championships. The last time they hosted the games, in 1989, the country was still part of Yugoslavia.

As ten minutes became twenty, we began to think we'd have to forego this island journey as I still had to pack our suitcases. Watching ducks, swans, and rowers passed the time but it wasn't why we were sitting in a damp boat on the lake. Finally, the captain herded two others on board and we were off, chugging slowly towards the island.

"You have 30 minutes," our captain warned us. We knew if we missed him, it would mean paying double (it was 12 euros or $16 each collected as we returned to the boat so I'm not sure how they could charge double). We scurried up the mossy steps to the back of the Church of Mary the Queen. Its front boasts a 99 step staircase (built in 1655) where most tourists disembark. We took a short tour of the grounds then bought tickets to go enter the church (3 euros or $4). Inside was a gilded wood altar built in 1747 (the first chapel was erected in the 8 or 9th centuries). Hanging before the altar was a stout hawser. Tanis read us the legend of the wishing bell and began yanking

on this rope.

Apparently a widow, mourning the death of her husband, had a bell cast for the island chapel in his memory. However, a storm capsized the boat bearing the bell and it sank to the bottom of the Lake Bled. Devastated, the woman entered a Roman covenant and upon her death, the Pope donated another bell to the chapel. It is said if you ring the bell three times in honour of the Blessed Virgin, your wish will come true. We all pulled the bell and time will tell if our wishes were heard.

This bell-ringing also explained why I'd thought the church counted the minutes when Ruth and I walked the lake shore earlier in the week. All I can say is the Blessed Virgin must be very busy listening to all the wishes arising from her church on the Isle of Bled.

The rest of our morning was spent packing then we stowed our bags at the front desk after checking out. Our bus to the airport was at 4:00 pm so we had time to kill. We did this in Pub Bled having lunch and enjoying several Slovenian beers, first on their patio but then inside the warmer, drier pub.

Our driver got us to the aiport in plenty of time. When we reached our gate, the place was like a tomb. I guess being such a small airport, you really didn't have to arrive more than a half hour before your flight.

We arrived in Frankfurt at 7:30 and hunted for the shuttle buses to the airport hotels. We were staying at the Steigenberger. Unfortunately, an information desk person sent us up to the taxis. We've had issues with hotel shuttles in the past--once waiting 2 hours for one, so Glen decided to grab a cab. The driver was NOT happy when we showed him the name of the hotel. I guess he lost his place in line for a 10 euro ($14) fare so was a bit huffy about that. Still, he drove us to the hotel after we explained we couldn't find the shuttle buses.

The hotel upgraded our room to the Executive Tower and we had a very modern, black and white hotel room. The shower had two nozzles, one for washing and one that flowed like rain. Glass, wood, and black tiles were the bathroom's decor so I took pictures should we wish to copy this design in the future.

Having had a sandwich on the plane, I wasn't wanting to eat dinner so we enjoyed some Bitburger beer in the lobby bar then headed to bed.

Unlike others at the conference who had to rise early to catch an 8:00 am bus, we slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. I had roll mops, cerviche, and smoked salmon so it was a cultural experience. Glen enjoyed apple tarts and pancakes with acorn syrup.

Frankfurt airport was busy so it was good we arrived two hours before our flight. We met a couple from Ottawa in the line at passport control. They had been on a Mediterranean cruise so told us a bit about their time in Venice. Our passport official was very slow so they began to worry they'd miss their boarding time. At this point another Ottawa passenger asked to 'butt in'. We let him but that started a trend. One man said he had 5 minutes to make his gate so the chap behind us, also going to Calgary, told him this was the slowest line ever so try another one. The next fellow who wanted in, we asked where he was going. Well, he picked the wrong line to butt in as he was on the same plane as us. Glen told him he had plenty of time to make the gate so to go to the back of the line. The guy behind us added his voice to Glen's so the man quickly disappeared.

Before going to our gate, Glen wanted to check out Cuban cigars in the Duty Free shop. We never buy Duty Free but Glen couldn't resist the price on his favourite cigars. Doing the math, he figured he paid 30% less than if he had bought them in Calgary.

We met up with Tanis and George at the gate and Ruth and Tom were also there having changed their departure from Monday to Sunday. It was a good flight and I was even able to sleep thanks to the wine we had with lunch. There was a medical emergency on board that we later learned involved a diabetic who had forgotten to take her medication. It meant the plane had priority landing.

Customs was packed with two oversea and two American flights landing at the same time but we got home just after 5:00 pm so I made a quick supper and then we went to bed. I hate jet lag!!!

What's with me and cemeteries?

My only plans on Friday morning was to meet up with Ruth and go from there. I hunted the conference breakfast room and the lobby to no avail. Finally I decided to knock on her door. I didn't know her room number but knew she had a corner unit. Of course, I picked the wrong unit and had to apologize to an elderly couple who showed no signs of speaking English.

Rattled, I decided to go off on my own instead of banging on another door. Probably just as well as Ruth was in the shower when I came knocking so she would not have answered.

I wandered the back streets of Bled, some of which bordered the surrounding farmland until I came to the main road to Ljubljana. I thought this might lead me to the golf course so I followed it. We had booked a tee time for Saturday morning but I wanted to check out the 'lay-of-the-land' before we played. I never made it to the course because an intersecting highway beckoned me.

This road went pass an apple orchard and several schools. It was recess time and so the children were out enjoying the sunshine. The road curved so I told myself that after I saw what was beyond, I'd turn around. That's when I stumbled upon the cemetery. It was a lovely place and I was not alone strolling past the stone memorials. What fascinated me most were the red glass lanterns, sometimes four or five on a grave.

By this time, I had lost sight of the castle. Remembering our problems in Germany, I retraced my steps instead of heading down side roads in the direction of the lake. I came back to the hotel to find Glen in the room honing his talk. He was to give it at the end of the day. We had lunch and I finally connected with Ruth so we spent part of the afternoon touring the jewellery and souvnier shops then hit our favourite Pub Bled for a beer before going back to our rooms to prepare for the banquet.

I wasn't back in the room five minutes when it began to rain. The banquet was at the Grand Hotel Toplice right on the lake, and we were to have drinks on the terrace. Remember the stairs? Now I had to climb them in high heels and carry an umbrella (not sure when I last used our travel ones so we've been lucky).

Glen's talk was well-received so several people wanted to talk to him before and after dinner. We sat with Ruth, Tom, George and Tanis. The meal we had was elegant. It began with prosciutto, goat cheese and tomato paired with a Slovenian Pinot Rose, then came buckwheat krapi, which are like pirogi, served on grilled mushrooms. The main course was veal served with cheese strudel. I drank the Benedict Red wine and it flowed freely. We'd just finished the veal when the conference organizer came around with the DJ to asked for dance music suggestions.

Glen said Bony M and Rolling Stones. Someone else suggested ABBA to which Glen said, yes but not The Dancing Queen. We hooted when the first dance played was The Dancing Queen. Of course, we had to get up and dance to it. We were the first on the dance floor but were quickly followed by another couple. The next song was Rasputein by Bony M so we had two good dances. By this time the dance floor was packed so we went back to our table. Maja, the conference organizer, came over and thanked us for getting the dance going. Hey, it's what we do.

By this time, it was 10:00 so cognisant of the fact we had to be up early to golf, we had one more dance then left. I hobbled up the stairs in the pouring rain. Note to self: never wear open-toed shoes in a rainstorm.

Stairway to Heaven?

The theme of this post is stairs. There were about about 100 steps taking one from Bled Lake to the Golf Hotel. Done once, it was not too bad but over the course of Thursday, I did more climbing than this old body was used to.

Ruth and I set out after a buffet breakfast in which I had the tastiest hot grain (perhaps buckwheat groats) cereal imaginable with prunes and apricots cooked in milk. I didn't stop there as prosciutto and smoked salmon also begged to be tasted. I'd forgotten how much I loved of café au lait with the milk as steaming hot as the coffee so enjoyed this treat as well. So, the first time walking down those stairs, I waddled.

Our plans were to stroll around the lake. Some people said it could be done in under an hour but I knew I'd be stopping for photos so banked on it taking longer. It didn't seem like two hours passed as Ruth and I had a great time chatting about our families and our lives living with a man who worked in medical science.

The island (there is only one island in the country of Slovenja) in the middle of Bled lake has the Church of Mary the Queen perched regally upon it. This picturesque chapel rang its bell every five minutes, it seemed. Since the town church sounded every quarter hour, I wondered if Mary the Queen divided the hour even further.

Fifty-four photos later we rounded the lake and came back to the outskirts of Bled. As we crossed the river flowing from the lake, we both realized that the coffee and diuretic (me) had hit so we upped our pace. We were undaunted by the steep stairs to the hotel and fairly flew up them.

Since I was a registrant at the meeting, my meals could be had with the others so I joined Glen for lunch. The antipasta (Italy is a not far away) and asparagus soup were delicious. To that I added stewed venison and polenta. Ruth ate with others but we had agreed to meet after lunch. That was not to be so I spent the afternoon by myself.

I again walked down those horrid stairs but instead of going right to the lake, I sauntered along the road past the souvenir shops. I was on my way to the castle so didn't want to lose any elevation if I could help it. The path to Bled Castle was off a road I had traveled that morning but the sign is almost an afterthought. A couple of steps cut into the bank beside the road alerted me to its existence.

My climbing instincts are good after hiking in the Rockies so when the trail broke into multiple versions of well-trod paths, I chose the ones that allowed me to switch-back up the cliff. It was so nice being in the peace of the woods. I was very much alone but had no fear of bears or cougars which would have plagued me in Canada.

Towards the top were, you guessed it, more stairs. These were of old stone and I wondered how long they had etched the hillside. They switch-backed up the steep grade until light appeared to split the trees. Huffing and puffing, I came to stand beside a parking lot. I had no idea a road led to the place.

The castle's entrance fee of 7 euros ($9.50) was steep but the view was so worth it. Besides two outdoor cafés, there was a tiny museum to explore outlining the history of the castle. It was first mentioned in 1004 when the German Emperor Henrick II gave the Bled estate to Bishop Albuin of Brixen. The castle itself, at that time consisting of its Romanesque tower, went to the bishop's successor. It is the oldest castle in Slovenja and was expanded during the Middle and Baroque Ages. Gracing the upper courtyard is a chapel built in the 16th century but decorated with frescoes in the 1700s.

The castle also has a herbal collection and wine cellar. George had bought some wine the previous day and could bottle it himself. The castle hosts weddings and the wine bottling is part of celebrating the special event.

But, I was not there to learn about the history of the castle or bottle wine, I was there to photograph Bled Lake, Bled Island, and the surrounding Julian Alps. Tanis joined me on the stone courtyard having seen all the conference's posters she needed to see. She is also a keen photographer and has a good eye for what makes a good photograph. Fifty shots later, I was ready to leave the 130m cliff and descend down the stairs to the lake. There I met Ruth and Tom (also taking a break from the meeting).

Glen was in the room doing his email when I hauled myself up the stairs to the hotel. He decided he'd only attend one afternoon session as the rest dealt with veterinary C. difficile. Ruth knocked on our door and we headed down the stairs for a beer in Pub Bled. In the back of my mind, I knew I'd have to ascend them to eat supper.

The buffet was excellent and I enjoyed trout served with a garlic sauce and garnished with horseradish. Somehow, it worked. Afterwards we joined Tanis, George, and some scientists from Britain and went back down to the pub. My legs were screaming, why?, but I ignored them. After a couple of Slovenian beers, we trudged back up to our room. I slept without rocking.

If it's Tuesday, it must be Slovenja

Slovene seems to be a language of 'j's and 'v's. I soon learned the j sounds like y and v like u. So the capital city of Slovenja,Ljubljana, sounds something like lube-lee-anna. We flew into the Ljubljana airport late Tuesday night. I had found a small hotel (after a search on the Internet) nearby that had a shuttle service but no one came to meet our plane. No problem, we grabbed a cab and showed him the address. He was happy to take us for the 10 minute ride (this scenerio in Frankfurt had different results).

The photo on the hotel's website showed a quaint, Bavarian/Swiss type place. Little did I know it would be in the middle of nowhere. Penzion Jagodic was a three story inn with a maze of rooms (36). It boasted a sauna, free wireless, a large dining room (with a disco ball), and a pub-style lounge.

When we arrived at 11:30 pm, it looked like no one was awake. The taxi took off before we could try the inn's door. Fortunately, it opened and we quickly checked in.

As I waited with our luggage, another visitor came to chat asking me where I was from. An Israeli, he shivered despite layers of sweaters. He asked me if I were cold but of course, I wasn't. It was nice to enjoy the brisk country air after city hotels with sealed windows.

We crammed our luggage into the tiny elevator, then negotiated a labyrinth of halls to our room, the wheels of our suitcases making a terrible racket on the tile floors. When we entered the small room, both Glen and I burst out laughing. The bed was two single mattresses jammed together in a queen size bed frame with a polished wood board erected between them. Glen quickly removed it commenting that, with this set-up, he could tell if I were angry with him as the board would be back in place. We snuggled under our down comforters and slept solidly until church bells woke us the next morning.

Penzion Jagodic was one of three tiny hotels in the village of Vopovlje (population 121 according to Wikipedia). Breakfast, a hearty spread, was included in the 76 euro price but we had to pay 3 euros (total for room & ride, $110) for the shuttle service back to the airport. Our bus to Bled was to pick us up at 11:30 am so we enjoyed a leisurely meal and a walk about the tiny town and into the surrounding farmland. It was such a contrast to the press of people that was Prague.

Why go to Bled was the question asked of us before we left Canada. A Clostridium difficile conference was the answer, otherwise we'd have never visited this tiny country and never known its incredible hospitality. Unlike Prague and Frankfurt, most of the tourists in this mountain town were from Eastern Europe. All the Slovenians spoke some English and really appreciated the tips we gave, thanking us like we had bestowed a gift upon them. It was a nice change from North America where any tip under 20% is sneered at.

The Ljubljana airport was tiny, smaller than Victoria's, so we sat outside, between the two doors, waiting for the shuttle to arrive. Others gathered until two vans were full. Funnily enough, Glen knew no one in the crowd but the man who sat next to us was from Montreal. Truly a small world since he worked with a woman Glen knew when he did his post-doc.

The conference was held in the Golf Hotel, one of several run by Sava Hotels in the Bled area. Upon arrival, we met

George and Tanis making plans to take a bike ride that afternoon. We couldn't get into our room so stowed our luggage and headed down the stairs to the town (I would come to hate those stairs). Glen fancied a sandwich for lunch but it was after 1:00 so the first restaurant we sat in had begun serving its dinner menu. I discovered a pub as we walked George to the bike shop and it, Pub Bled, became our drinking joint for the rest of the meeting. The view from its tiny patio in the trees was spectacular.

When I saw Toast on the menu, I was back with my parents in Italy enjoying beer and 'toast' in an outdoor café. Our server explained that not all the sandwiches were available so we ordered what we could. My ham and cheese with cucumber ended up being ham, cheese, and a pickle but was still very tasty. Glen had a tuna melt. Both were cheap and so was the beer at 2,50 euros ($3.50) for a pint. We drank Austrian, Hirter beer as it was on tap but soon discovered Slovenian beer could be had in quart bottles so drank mostly Union beer after that.

Our room had a fantastic view of the lake, church, and castle. After getting settled, we walked around the lake enjoying the sights of swans with their cignets, boats being rowed like the gondolas in Venice, and the mountain castle. Glen's first session was at 4:00 with a reception at 7:00 so I spent the time in our room gazing out at the unbelievable scenery. The reception was a lavish spread with Slovenian wine and many tasty treats from the area. Bled is famous for a type of cake, Kremsnita, that melts in your mouth. It is often glazed with local honey and I was witness to the thousand of bees that 'worked' the town.

During the reception, we hooked up with some other Western Canadians but only one had brought his spouse. Ruth and I hit it off so after the reception, we walked down to Pub Bled and had a beer with her and her husband, Tom. She and I made plans to walk around the lake the next day.

Walk About

We said goodbye to our friend from Chicago at breakfast. He was driving to Munich for Oktoberfest and we were heading to Slovenja but first we had more walking to do in Prague.

I wanted to see the Old Jewish Cemetery in Jewish Town which was not far from the hotel and Glen wanted to walk along the Vltava River (sometimes spelled Vitava) so we did both. The Old New Synagogue in Prague is Europe's oldest active synagogue. Built in 1270, it was one of the city's first gothic buildings. It is said the body of Golem lies in the attic. This character, created by Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalei in the late 16th century, was meant to save Jewish Town from anti-Semitic attacks. It is said to have been made from Vltava River mud and brought to life by the rabbi. According to legend, Golem killed many gentiles. And you thought Tolkien made him up.

It was nice strolling beside the river heading away from the tourist district. We walked between two bridges, the Cechuv and the Stefanikuv. The latter connected to a road which led us back to the hotel in time to check out at noon. After storing our luggage, we headed out to lunch at, you guessed it, the Old Town Clock square and found The Black Bull café. Glen had his usual ham and cheese panni while I enjoyed a chicken, goat cheese and walnut baguette. Our server was a hockey fan so once he discovered we were from Canada, we had to talk hockey. He knew all the NHL teams and most of the better players. He spoke of the hopes the Czechs have now that some of their teams include recruits from Canada.

After lunch, we decided to walk upstream along the river. Smetanovo nabrezi is a stone embankment and offers great views of the Charles Bridge and the Castle. It's named after the Czech composer, Bedrich Smetana (1824-84), who developed a style of music that Czechs identify as their own. The rest of the world knows him for his opera, The Bartered Bride. A monument to him stands on a banjo pier near the Charles Bridge.

As you walk up the river, you pass a park with a neo-gothic monument called Kranner's Fountain. Originally it was erected to honor the Hapsburg King of Bohemia, Francis I, reigning from 1792-1835. The man was born in Italy and was the last Holy Roman Emperor. Although he hated Napoleon, his daughter, Marie-Louise of Austria, married the Corsican. Got to love politics.

We crossed the Vltava at the Legii bridge. On the corner was an impressive building called the National Theatre where Prague stages its operas and ballets. The sun glinting off its gold roof was blinding.

The Legii crosses over one of the river's islands and its lock system. Here barges and tour boats can pass the two weirs straddling the Vltava. On the other side we came to Kampa Park, a serene oasis in this busy metropolis. The Kampa Park Restaurant was highly recommended by the hotel although some said the view was better than the food. We didn't eat there so I can't offer an opinion. Perhaps next time.

How do you find a Swarovski crystal shop in Prague? Throw a stone.

There are other stores selling Bohemian crystal so if you did throw a stone, you'd be breaking some beautiful pieces. Daniel Swarovski was a Czech and the son of a glass cutter. He developed an electric cutting machine and with two others began the Swarovski company in Austria but obviously many tourists wish to buy his crystals in Prague.

We also passed many stores with T-shirts and trinkets but what seemed unique to Prague was the multitude of marionette shops. Jewellry stores also dotted the streets between the Old Town Clock and Charles Bridge. The gem of which Prague is most proud is the garnet. Thousands of pieces done in silver and gold decorated the shops. After much looking, I found a pair of earrings which I liked. The salesman was very persuasive and we hesitant. In the end, he sold them to us for the 'Canadian' price of 1200 czk ($65) less than what was on the price tag.

Around the corner from his shop was an brass plaque honouring Johannes Kepler, the German astronomer. His connection with Prague was his work with Tycho Brahe, a Dane who was the official imperial astronomer to the Holy Roman Emperor, Rudolph II in the late 1500s. A small museum beckoned but we were too tired to explore it.

We went back to the hotel to relax and wait for the taxi to pick us up. He did so promptly. As we wound through the streets of the city, I noticed we missed the turn to the airport highway. The driver explained he was taking us through villages to avoid the traffic congestion. For a fleeting moment, I thought we might have been kidnapped.

In the confusion of checking in at Czech Airlines, we were upgraded to Business class. This allowed us to take the fast lane through security and enjoy the lounge with its beer, sandwiches, and Internet. With the 8 hour time difference, Glen had issues keeping up with the workings of his department so checked his email often.

Bora Bora

No, we didn't go from Prague to Bora Bora. If you've seen the movie xXx, you would know it was filmed in Prague and at one point, the protagonist requests a holiday in Bora Bora. And yes, it was one reason we visited this wonderful city. However, our first priority on Monday morning was to see Wenceslas Square.

After sleeping in and enjoying a great breakfast, we set out. Prague is a walking city and we planned to cover most of it. We hadn't gone two blocks when my Canon Rebel camera died.

I had not taken my own advice and had forgotten to charge the battery the previous night. Keeping all four of our electronic devices charged was difficult as we only had one conversion plug. We'd bought our universal plug converter at The Shoe Company, of all places, but next time, we'll have to bring more than one unit.

It was good I had my little Olympus camera as a back-up. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the square, the lighting was all wrong so my photos of good King Wenceslas (sometimes spelled Wenceslaus) were not great. To boot, the square was not a square but a very long rectangle and next to it was a McDonalds and a Starbucks so not the Czech experience I had envisioned. However, Glen was thrilled to see the saint of Christmas carol fame. Surrounding his statue are other Bohemian saints -- St. Adalbert, St. Prokop, St. Agnes, and St. Ludmilla. The last being Wenceslas' grandmother so saintliness must run in the family. Not sure how they defined sainthood in those times, though, as Wenceslas caused the drowning death of another Bohemian saint so was obviously not lily-white.

Our next stop was the Old Town Clock. Little did we know this was such a tourist draw. As we wandered the streets moving toward our destination, the crowds grew. We were amazed at the number of tourists from all over the world in Prague on a sunny day in September. The universal language of these multitudes? English. All my fears of being unable to communicate should we experience problems dissolved with this realization.

We reached the astronomical clock (orloj) built in 1410 just before noon and found several tour groups milling about. We waited to see why. As the clock started to chime, the upper doors opened and the twelve apostles passed before the openings (representing each hour in the day). Meanwhile, four figures bracketing the astonomical dial depicting what was most hated at the time (these were added in the 17th century) began to move. One man admired himself in a mirror (vanity), a man lifted a bag of money (greed), a skeleton rang a bell (death) and the last man wore a turban (Turkish infidels).

After it had finished tolling, a man dressed in a bright orange medieval costume appeared in the clock tower and blew a tune on his trumpet. Everyone clapped their approval.

The clock has stopped working many times over the centuries but suffered heavy damage during The Prague Uprising in 1945 when the Czech resistance tried to liberate Prague from German occupation during World War II. On this day, the astronomical dial of the 24 hour clock was incorrect so it was due for more repairs.

Our next stop was the famous Charles Bridge. Glen was positive this was where Xander Cage (xXx) uttered the 'Bora Bora' line in the movie. He was right. But how different from the movie it was when we walked the bridge's cobblestones. Masses of tourists crowded it and venders lined its walls selling everything from trinkets to art. Above us loomed blackened Christian-themed statues (erected in the 1700s), some of which were being restored. Construction of the Stone Bridge began under Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor, in 1357 and was complete in the 15th century. It was the second bridge (the first was destroyed in a flood) across the Vitava River between Prague's Old Town and Lesser Town. In 1870, it became known as the Charles Bridge.

Prague Castle stands on a hill overlooking Lesser Town. It is more than just as castle since not only did it house the Kings of Bohemia's and the Holy Roman Emperor's palaces but its walls also protected four churches and five halls. The president of the Czech Republic now has his offices there. Actually, a church (built in 870) stood on the site before a castle appeared in the 12th century. Charles IV had this building rebuilt in the Gothic style then began on a cathedral which would take 6 centuries to complete. In 1541, much of the palace was destroyed by fire so the Hapsburgs erected new Renaissance-styled buildings. They suffered during the Thirty Year's War (1618-1648) and were in decline when the president took up residence in 1918. The buildings were occupied by the Germans during World War II and afterwards, the communist Czechoslovak government.

Using our map, we plotted the quickest way up the hill. The street we followed ended at a huge flight of stairs. I told Glen they had also appeared in the movie and have since learned I was right. When we reached the castle grounds, we discovered a road that may have been easier to ascend. We wandered around and entered the St. Vitus Cathedral, named for the saint whose arm bone Wenceslas had acquired. It was a breathtaking sight to stand beneath the vaulted ceiling lit by immense stainglass windows.

At this point, we realized we'd been walking for almost 3 hours and needed lunch. Glen wanted to eat by the clock so we descended another stairway, past the Saint Wenceslas Vineyards, and over the Manesuv Bridge back into the Old Town. We collapsed into the wicker chairs of the U Orloje café at 2:00. Thirsty, we indulged in 1 liter steins of Pilsner Urquell. Glen then had a ham and cheese panni while I ate a Prague ham and cheese baguette. It was the fanciest ham and cheese sandwich I've ever eaten.

Exhausted, we headed back to the hotel to check on email and enjoy the hospitality of the Executive Lounge. We discovered most of the guests had done much the same tour as we had although some took the tram (#22, costing about $1 one way) to the castle and others lingered over a glass of wine in the vineyard. We curbed our appetite when the lounge staff served hors d'oeuvres so as to enjoy an authentic Prague meal that evening.

This we did at another restaurant near the clock, Restaurant Café U Tyna. We enjoyed a different Czech beer, Krusovice, at this establishment. Each restaurant seems to have its brand loyalty and serves that exclusively. We ate Prague goulash with two types of dumplings. I had always made dumplings using a basic biscuit dough but these were yeasty and instead of small balls, came as large slices. One was made with white bread while the other had chopped onions mixed in. They were very tasty as was the thick goulash. Melissa's cousin, Kelly, had recommended we try plum dumplings for dessert. U Tyna didn't have those but did have fruit dumplings which Glen enjoyed.

In Prague, most dining is done outside so during supper I had to keep my eye on two huge spiders as they made their webs across the archways that separated the outdoor area from the inside. It was a distraction. As we left the restaurant, the clock began to chime. We were at the back side of the tower when the trumpeter appeared. We clapped enthusiastically after he'd finished playing. We were the only ones to do so.

It's Sunday; it must be Prague

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel in Frankfurt with prosciutto, smoked salmon, and cheese for me, toast and eggs for Glen. There was nothing keeping us at the hotel so we checked out. That's when we discovered our buffet breakfast was not included in the room price. The staff had asked for our room number so we assumed it was (no price was posted). There was no way we ate a breakfast worth 29 euros ($40) each!

Taxis waited outside the hotel and for the first time in our lives, we had a woman cab driver. There was no traffic on the highway so she got us to the airport in jig time. One thing about travelling by air, is you spend a lot of time sitting in an airport waiting. A book is essential. Glen brought The Girl who Played with Fire by Stieg Larsson and I read Ship of Destiny by Robin Hobb. Since I finished my book before the end of the trip, I'm seriously considering investing in a Kindle reader so I don't have to drag two books whenever I travel.

Unlike North America, European airlines still serve food on their flights. We had a sandwich and beer as we flew to Prague. After reading horror stories about gouging done by Prague taxi drivers, I booked a shuttle service on-line. Prague Airport Transfers met us as planned but there was a hitch in getting us to our hotel. There were two downtown Hiltons. Fortunately, I had printed up an itinerary with all our flights and hotels with their confirmation numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. Our driver informed us we'd be staying at Hilton Prague Old Town. I had chosen this hotel because it was close to Wenceslas Square as that was the reason we went to Prague in the first place.

The hotel was lovely and made even better with an upgrade which gave us a king-size bed, free internet and buffet breakfast. We settled in and hit the Executive Lounge to tap into the internet. Imagine our surprise when we discovered the lounge had a fridge full of good Czech beer--Pilsner Urquell (Czechs developed the first pilsner in 1842). We became friendly with a gent from Chicago and had some laughs together. The lounge became a gathering place for people where ideas on the sights and scenes of Prague were discussed. Hors d'oeuvres, served in the late afternoon, included the best wings I've tasted. Thai flavouring with a zip. Sushi and canapés rounded out the menu as did a variety of hard liquors. The wine was from a vineyard in Prague Castle.

We staggered down to supper not feeling like much to eat but had a wonderful meal in Zinc (voted one of the best 25 restaurants in the Czech Republic). We both ate vegetarian as we'd had enough chicken wings to do an entire meal. The Wild Mushroom and Camembert Soufflé was excellent washed down with Prague Castle wine.

Getting Lost is Half the Fun

On Saturday morning, after reading some of the tourist info in our hotel room, we decided to walk to the old opera house. The Alte Oper Frankfurt was built in 1880 and once sat 2000 people. It suffered minor damage during World War I but in 1944, it was hit by a bomb. The fire gutted the building and the roof collapsed. As early as 1952, there was a movement to rebuilt the structure but not until 20 years later did the city permit this. By 1978, the internal structures were complete and in 1981, the famous Pegasus statue lowered onto the roof. It has hosted many classical and rock musicians over the years including Bryan Adams.

We took a hotel map with us this time so as to find it. Little did we know this would be our downfall. After viewing the opera house, we took a wrong turn and began heading deeper into downtown thinking we were making for the river. In fact, we went beyond the scope of the map so none of the side streets were what we expected. Finally, a lady offered to help us out. She pointed us in the right direction. Eventually we came to the shopping district and I recognized a building I had photographed the previous day. We headed to the town square to have lunch at one of the outside cafés. It was chilly so I was thrilled to get a seat under a heater. The tables were close together and the gentleman next to us said something in German to the affect that his wife also liked the heat. Glen replied and they both laughed--neither knowing what the other was saying.

We had a delicious goulash soup with a huge pretzel for lunch with our beer. While we enjoyed the chance to rest our feet, two weddings took place at the Town Hall. One young lad in the wedding party was dressed in Lederhosen.

We walked back to the hotel, changed then headed to Zum Storch am Dom for supper. The restaurant is first mentioned in 1317 and was frequented by the famous writer/renaissance man of Frankfurt, Johann Wolfgang von Geothe. After being destroyed in World War II, the building was rebuilt in 1953 and since 1960 has been in the capable hands of the Hahn family.

When you enter the restaurant, you feel you have stepped back to an earlier time. Gold lantern light warms the dark wood of the wainscoting (the walls were plaid) and bar. There are two rather bedraggled stuffed storks (hence the place's name) gracing the establishment. One near a 'nest' in the rafters and one on the bar. Trinkets from the past decorated the walls. It had a homey feel and the staff made you feel like part of the family. Beer was served in clay steins.

Glen wanted pig's knuckle but wasn't sure if he could handle it so asked about the size (he'd seen one in the afternoon that could have fed three people). Herr Hahn said it was a good German portion. We all laughed. The Storch specializes in Frankfurt cuisine which seems to be mostly meat and potatoes.

Glen started his meal with Chantrelle mushroom soup and I had consommé with German ravioli (yes, that's what it is called on the menu). While Glen tackled his pig's knuckle, I ate the house specialty, Sauerbraten with red cabbage and potato dumplings. I have tried making red cabbage myself and this had a far better taste so now I'm inspired to try making it again.

We waddled back to the hotel (a half hour walk) and the lights twinkling on the river were romantic. Several loving couples cuddled together on the benches. I didn't notice that one was two men but such things seem more accepted in Europe.

It's Frankfurt so it must be Friday

Hardly had my suitcase cooled from the heat of Vegas when we were off again, this time to Europe. Glen had a meeting to attend in Slovenja and we tacked on a few days and destinations to his itinerary. It's been 34 years since I've set foot in Europe and things have changed. I was worried about language issues since I spoke no German, Czech, or Slovene. I should have known that with the advent of the Internet, English has become the universal language of travellers.

We arrived in Frankfurt, Germany at noon and made it through customs with no problems. We then hauled our luggage down to the train station. After trying to figure out the vending machine, a woman helped us get tickets. Our train was due to arrive in a half hour. Since the Frankfurt train runs every two hours, this was a lucky break. It cost 4 euros (about $5.50) and was a double-decker carriage so we dragged our suitcases up the stairs to our seats. Had we known it was only a 20 minute ride, I think I'd have stood with them on the landing.

The downtown train station (Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof) was not far from the hotel but finding the Intercontinental proved to be difficult. We actually travelled through the 'red light' district before arriving on its doorstep. Hauling rolling suitcases over cobblestones is not fun.

We were surprised our room had twin beds as we had requested a queen but felt it was not worth complaining about. We ate lunch in the bar, sharing a huge club sandwich and a couple of good German beers. While Glen checked his emails in the room, I napped for an hour. I had slept on the plane but needed this time to take the edge off.

The hotel was close to the Main (pronounced 'mine') River which had a promenade along its banks. We walked past swans, barges, and tour boats until we came to a heavily travelled pedestrian bridge. Instead of crossing it, we headed into the city and discovered the Town Hall square. Just beyond it was the main shopping area of Frankfurt with many high-end stores. On a side-street, we discovered a French market selling wine, food, and crafts Many locals were enjoying the warm evening under the tents. A singer entertained us with a Boney M song and I remembered the group began in Germany.

We wandered around the tents until we found the beer kiosk advertising beer for 2,50 euros. After ordering two, we realized the actual cost was 5 euros. While drinking from our 'souvenir' glass steins, we finally came to the conclusion we had rented them. I'm sure the vender had told us this but neither of us could speak German. To test our theory, Glen went for a refill and sure enough, the price dropped. We got our money back when we returned our glasses.

On our walk, we had passed an unique German restaurant off the beaten track so went there for supper. Unfortunately, we didn't have reservations so were told we must wait an hour. I was hungry so we returned to the hotel after making reservations for the following night. The owner didn't write down our names just said, 'Armstrong, like the astronaut.'

At the hotel bar, we ate two skewers of 8 different sausages served on potato rosti, complimented with grainy mustard and washed down with more German beer. It was delicious. We tumbled into bed at nine and slept solidly.

Going Home

Our trip home was as seamless as the trip down. Thank you, Alaska Airlines!

Because we left the Sahara early, we ate breakfast at the airport and I had a tasty breakfast sandwich with ham and eggs at Fresh Attractions. I find it difficult to negotiate an airport without coffee so it was surprising that I even made it to this small café.

When we landed in Seattle, we changed terminals and found our gate easily enough. It was lunchtime and I wanted to have our last meal in an actual restaurant. Anthony's was our choice. It was a seafood place with wall-to-ceiling windows so you could see the planes taking off. Glen had a delicious crab/shrimp melt while I indulged in tempura prawns, onion rings and zucchini slices. Mike had halibut and chips and Meg, seafood alfredo. All very sumptuous. I wish that all airport dining could be so enjoyable and tasty.

Bonus on our trip home was free beer. Thank you, Alaska Airlines! Called Okto, it was brewed in Portland, Oregon by the Widmer Brothers.

We arrived in Calgary on time, our luggage appeared in the 20 minutes Alaska guarantees, and we were home by 6:00 pm. For those who had to work the next day, this allowed for unpacking and generally getting settled back into a normal routine . It was a fun trip but four days was about all I could handle of the sights and sounds of Las Vegas. Would I return? Of course. Viva Las Vegas!

Anniversary

Our 38th anniversary dawned much like the other days in Vegas although we ate a much smaller breakfast. The previous day, Glen had indulged in a huge plate of french toast, strawberries topped by a mound of whipped cream. This morning he had cereal and our waitress remarked he was eating light.

Since neither of us felt like swimming, we left Meg and Mike to lounge by the pool while we headed out to see the best of old Vegas (according to Glen)--Circus Circus. Meg had a tattoo appointment so she and Mike didn't join us on our morning walk.

When Glen first experienced Vegas, over 20 years ago, he had gone to Circus Circus and Slots a Fun to gamble. They lured in customers with free beer and shrimp cocktails which Glen thought a great deal for someone travelling on a budget. He bet $20, played the nickel machines, and ate several cups of shrimp. Winnings at that time poured into tiny margarine tubs. Today, the machine makes the sound of falling coins but then spits out a ticket with a bar code that you cash at an ATM.

Meg warned me I should not touch anything in Slots A Fun, to just see what I had to see and leave. She felt the place was disease-ridden. Both it and Circus Circus had obviously seen better days but Glen insisted on playing one machine for old time's sake so I sat beside him on a rather shabby, cigarette burned chair. The circus part of Circus Circus, made famous in Diamonds Are Forever, wasn't open when we toured the hotel but I could see the array of games designed to amuse children.

It was here we almost got caught by a face cream hawker. She met us as we entered and admired my tattoo. Without realizing it, we had a gob of cream in our hands and she was asking us where we from. Being Canadian, we answered as she steered us toward a chair. Fortunately, we saw the trap and high-tailed it out of there. It was the second time that day someone had commented on my 'ink'.

Meg was ravenous after her tattoo session so we ate at the Nascar Café, changed for supper, then headed to the Venetian. This hotel has a beautiful Italian style shopping plaza but our plans were to do a gondola ride. It was too hot to do the one outside so headed to the dock of the interior canal. We had done this with Geoff, Melissa, and Elijah and it is well worth the price ($16.00/person). Our gondolier was Tino and he entertained us with humour and three songs, the first in honour of our anniversary. It was a relaxing half hour hiatus from the hustle and bustle of Vegas.

After a refreshing lemonade, we went to the casino to wile away the time until supper. Meg had made reservations for us to eat at Mario Batali's B&B Ristorante. She and Mike treated us to a lovely meal there. The grilled octopus antipasto was spectacular! It was a great way to celebrate our anniversary and so nice to share it with our children.

After dinner, Glen and I headed to the Bellagio hotel and Meg and Mike went back to the Sahara. We had to pick up our tickets for the Cirque du Soleil show "O". I was glad we arrived an hour before the show as there was a line-up. Once we got them, we went out to see the Fountain Show.

We had missed this famous show the last time we were in Vegas as it was cancelled due to high winds. The fountains 'dance' to one song every 15 minutes after 8:00 pm so we 'saw' two songs before we had to leave. It was a magic moment.

Any performance done by Cirque du Soleil is worth the money spent and "O" was no different. We had seen Love and enjoyed it immensely but did not have the best seats. This time, I paid a little more and we had the first row of a balcony so my view was unobstructed. As with any Cirque show, there were acrobats, contortionists, trapeze artists, dancers, and clowns but "O" adds the abilities of Olympic athletes to its cast. Medal-winning synchronized swimmers and divers contribute to the awe of this show as did the 1.5 million gallon pool which served as the stage. Platforms were raised and lowered to allow for performers to move across it. Ten thousand feet of hose lined the pool and released bubbles to break the water's surface so dives were almost splashless and swimmers glided in and out of the water. The affect was mystifying.

Our monorail trip back to the Sahara was an adventure. As we learned while riding the beast, the trains have no driver. So we were on a northbound train going south and could do nothing about it. At its final stop, we stayed on board hoping it would get us to where we needed to go. Once it began moving, an announcement said its destination was Harrah's, not the Sahara. We disembarked thinking we'd have to catch a cab but there was an actual person on the platform answering questions. Turns out they were repairing the track so we had to take an alternate train to the Sahara. We tumbled into bed at 1:00 am knowing we had to rise at 5:30 am to catch our flight home.

Viva Las Vegas - Third Day

At our beside-the-pool meeting, we decided to go to the Rainforest Café in the MGM hotel for lunch then do some shopping at the Planet Hollywood Hotel. We had come close to eating at the Rainforest Café at Downtown Disney in Disney World when we holidayed there over ten years ago. At that time, there was a 2 hour wait to get in so we never made it beyond the entranceway. I took some pictures then we hunted down a place that served faster food.

This time we walked right into the restaurant. The jungle decor was fantastic and we had a great time watching the little ones in awe of animatronic elephants and monkeys. Large aquariums dotted the place so we were never without visual stimulation. Another bonus was souvenir, flashing margarita glasses.

After lunch we browsed the shop and I discovered they had 100% rayon Hawaiian shirts. These are Glen's favourites so we chose two since they were the cheapest I had ever seen. After that we headed to the Planet Hollywood hotel.

The last time we were in Vegas, we walked by the construction of this hotel on our way to the Aladdin hotel shops. Little did we know it was out with the old and in with the new and the Aladdin was demolished (but not it's tourism website). When we entered the shopping area, it was definitely déja vu. The Aladdin-themed concourse was still there with its Moroccan decor and hourly rainstorm.

Meg wanted to check out the Betty Page store so Glen and I sat on the rocks surrounding a pond. Glen carried the Rainforest Café bag with the flashing glasses and had several people comment on his parcel. One couple also remarked that the Betty Page store was good because it didn't use animal products. Glen pointed to their leather sandals as they walked away. I guess people don't realize when they are being hypocritical.

Gambling was next on our agenda and since we had loyalty cards for the Sahara, we headed back there to fritter our money away. Meg and Mike play machines which reward you with video games as well as money (at one point Meg turned 15 cents into $32) whereas Glen and I play video poker. We agreed to meet at the Nascar Café for before dinner drinks and that's when we first beheld the phenomenon of men trying to consume a six pound burrito with dollops of sour cream and guacamole. It was not a pretty sight and no man who tried, succeeded although the first guy we saw did very well. We cheered them on but neither Glen nor Mike were up for the challenge. Too much food!

We dined in the hotel's steakhouse restaurant, the House of Lords. Not sure how that title relates to the Saharan desert theme but the decor was definitely Moroccan. We sat in a booth shaped like half an onion dome and had a great meal (good food and inexpensive). It was a place where you could imagine the Rat Pack eating and in fact, they did. The walls of the Sahara are decorated with old black and white photos of Sinatra, Lewis, Martin, Elvis, and The Beatles.

Viva Las Vegas - Second Day

Meg's Vegas involves meeting at the pool in time for morning margaritas. That sounded like fun. Glen and I had breakfast at the Caravan Café and discovered food portions in Vegas are huge. I ordered granola and yogurt. It was served in a large salad bowl with very fresh blackberries and raspberries. Glen had a Denver omelet that was about 6 inches long and 3 inches wide.

We waddled to the pool and enjoyed a swim but could not sit in the sun to dry off as already it was too hot. The bar didn't open until 11 so we never did drink morning margaritas. We planned our day while lounging on the deck chairs. First stop was lunch at Planet Hollywood in the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. This meant wandering through the Forum and enjoying the colossal fountain statuary of Roman gods and the ever-changing sky that makes this place feel surreal.

After lunch, we did a brief tour of all the memorabilia collected from different movies in the Planet Hollywood restaurant then we headed to Mirage. I had already won $100 on video poker but wanted rub the mermaid there as she had given me luck in the past. Unfortunately, she was gone so we decided to see the dolphins instead. Turns out they were outside and the show cost $15 per person so we returned to the hotel lobby, rubbed the entranceway's brass dolphin's nose (for luck), then took the tram to TI (also called Treasure Island). Here, we did our first shopping at the Siren's Cove Shoppe before we headed across Las Vegas Blvd to the Venetian. We wandered along the canal, crossed a replica of the Rialto Bridge (with moving sidewalks) then entered Harrah's Casino which had a monorail station.

We played the machines at the Sahara and relaxed in our room before heading out to supper. We were excited to see the Tournament of Kings. Meg and Mike had enjoyed this experience on a previous trip and said we'd love it. They were right. It is loosely based on King Arthur and his round table. Merlin and the jester introduced the show as we enjoyed our bowl of tomato soup without using a spoon. Cola was served ad libitum and we ordered a bucket of beer with 4 bottles of Stella Artois. There were no utensils at this meal so when the whole chicken, baked potatoes, broccoli, and biscuit arrived we literally 'dug in'.

Each section of the stadium represented a country. We sat in one of the smaller sections and were to root for Hungary. We had some very enthusiastic people in our section so cheered and banged our tables whenever our 'king' appeared. He seemed to appreciate our support and went on to win a couple of the tournament challenges. However, there was a script and he would not be declared the overall winner. Meanwhile, we heckled the other kings, especially Russia and France who seemed to enjoy our boos. We had front row seats so saw all the action including some burly, bare-chested men who played the part of dragon knights. The horses were well-trained and the fights extremely well choreographed. Sparks flew when the heavy swords connected.

The show was geared to families and when it was over, one passed through a midway-like area where kids could play games for toys. They also had some of the older gambling machines that Glen remember seeing in the casinos when he first visited Vegas over twenty years ago.

Viva Las Vegas - First Day

Okay, I know the title of this piece is a cliché, but the first music we heard upon our arrival at the Sahara Casino was ZZ Top's version of this iconic song. It set the mood for a great time in this crass and yet beautiful city. Las Vegas is larger than life -- you can travel the world and never leave the 4 mile long Strip. Our hotel anchored the northern terminus and Mandalay Bay Hotel, its southern-most point on Las Vegas Boulevard.

This was my second visit to the city, the first being with our son, Geoff, his wife, Melissa and our grandson, Elijah in 2006 (see Meet Me in Vegas). At that time, we stayed at The Orleans hotel and took a shuttle bus to The Strip. This time we travelled with our daughter, Meg and her husband, Mike, and stayed at their favourite hotel, the Sahara. It is the final stop on the monorail so very convenient to all the sights and sounds of Vegas yet far enough away from the maddening crowd.

Our flight from Calgary was uneventful but we had to rise at 2:30 am to make it through customs. Calgary's US customs are notorious for being slow, hence the early rising. However, as luck would have it, we breezed through in less than an hour and the plane took off right on time, 6:30 am.

Our flight attendant on Horizon Air entertained us with a safety demonstration which made our first foray on this airline fun. It was also Mike's first flight on a prop-driven airplane. We changed planes to Alaska Air in Seattle with little hassle. Meg spotted her suitcase entering the airplane so we knew one of them had made it on board.

We arrived in Las Vegas to 40 degree C temps. Both bags arrived as we reached the carrousel so there was no time to play the nearby slot machines. Meg told our cab driver to take us directly to the hotel as cabbies often do the trip down The Strip. If it is your first time you may not mind spending $45 on a long ride but we just wanted to get to the hotel which cost about $15.

We checked-in but Meg's room wasn't made up so they stored their bags with us then we headed down to the hotel's liquor store for 'one for the road'. Like New Orleans, Vegas has lax drinking laws so you can walk and drink with impunity. It seems like a civilized way of doing things.

At the monorail station, we got our 3-day passes ($28 but we had a $7 off coupon from the hotel) which are a real bargain if you plan on going back and forth on the train. Our first stop was an authentic Mexican restaurant, Gonzalez Y Gonzalez, Meg had discovered on a previous trip. It was housed in the shopping mall beneath New York, New York.

Vegas is more than just a gambling town. The food is excellent with many great restaurants and some famous ones with TV chefs. It also offers an incredible plethora of shops from trashy souvenir kiosks to high-end stores like Harry Winston Diamonds. A happy, carnival atmosphere permeates The Strip with street vendors hawking everything from bottled water to 'girls'. There are roller coasters, magic shows, animal acts, and arcades as well as slot machines and gambling tables. We saw Elvis several times, girls dressed in nothing much but wearing gigantic headdresses, and more tattoos than anyone could imagine seeing in one place.

After a delicious Mexican meal washed down with giant margaritas, we headed south towards Mandalay Bay to do the Shark Reef experience, passing through the Luxor Hotel and Excalibur (where we bought our tickets for the Tournament of Kings). We had to walk outside in the heat to reach Mandalay Bay and quickly learned to appreciate the cold air conditioning.

The Shark Reef was a nice sized aquarium where you could learn about the fish via a phone-like device. At one point, we stood under an arch of water that allowed the sharks to swim over our heads. It was a wonderful feeling, almost like you were snorkeling. The children shrieked with excitement when a ray 'flew' over them. But, by 8:00, we were tired and ready to head back the hotel where we had supper in the Nascar Café. It had great burgers and better beer. We then tumbled into bed.

Week Two in Victoria

I'm tempted to say our second week here was the same as the first but it wasn't. Monday we headed downtown to get bicycle helmets at Mountain Equipment Co-op. We also wanted to pick up Glen's favourite incense. But, the main reason for the trip was dim sum at Don Mee's.

As usual the food was great and the 'yummy yummy' lady served us our favourite - sticky rice. She was particularly happy this day and sang while she cut the leaves wrapping the rice. She has a lovely voice. We pigged out on seafood dim sum but still had plenty of leftovers for supper.

Tradition dictates we walk down Fan Tan Alley. One building was under construction so the alley was even narrower. At Whirled Arts, Glen began his incense hunt. He wanted Mogra but couldn't find it. The clerk assured us they didn't sell that type. I picked up some Xmas presents (made by women in India who are paid fairly) for Elijah and Miles then did a quick search of a stack of incense boxes and found the Mogra. Unfortunately, they had only one package so Glen will have to find a source in Calgary.

Tuesday, we were at Mount Doug golfing. We met Iain's friend, Richard, finishing his round and had a brief chat. We played with two long-time friends, Ed and Dennis, both very good golfers. I struggled for the first three holes then things finally came together after a young doe crossed the fairway not ten feet from the tee box. Later, at the 7th hole, an eagle flew over just as I was teeing up. I had to forego my birdwatching instincts and hit the ball. I ended up paring the hole.

Wednesday, we did household chores and worked on the slideshow Glen made of our road trip. We compromised on music and came up with a nice show.

Thursday we were at The Ridge golfing and Glen had 3 pars. He still missed the green on #6 but he's getting close. On the 7th hole, my ball hit the water, bounced then hit a rock, bounced again then landed in the middle of the fairway. I had to chip up a steep hill but popped it for the first time. It was a good feeling. On the final hole, right by the clubhouse patio, I sank a 25 ft putt. It ended the morning well.

That evening we met up with Iain and Janet at Haultain Fish and Chips, a place I've always wanted to try. Meg and Mike lived on Haultain Street so the name is sentimental. We walked along it until we saw smoke billowing forth from their cookers. The place boasts the best fish and chips in Victoria and Iain confirmed this. The restaurant has an old-fashioned diner atmosphere (they also do take-out) of vinyl and arborite. The servers and cooks have worked there for years so you feel you are guests of a family. The cafe was packed at 6:30--it is a small place but we lucked out and nabbed the last booth. The bottled beer was cold and the wine came with foam on the top (obviously from a box but good none-the-less). The fish and chips were indeed the best we've had. Thick slabs of halibut had been quickly dipped in batter before frying. The chips were homemade and excellent. Neither Glen nor Iain had the coleslaw and our server said they'd ordered the 'man's meal' but they missed out as the coleslaw was very good with green onions added to the cabbage and carrots.

At 7:15, the cook came asking how we were paying and at 7:30, they kicked us out. Obviously going home to family was more important than feeding folks who wanted to linger over their dinner. We didn't mind as we'd had a good hour's chat with Iain and Janet, but needless-to-say, we were the last ones in the place before the door slammed shut.

Friday, we met Tom and Isabel at the Art Gallery to see the Emily Carr exhibit. Most of Carr's works were ones that usually hung in the gallery but they had augmented the display with some of her earlier pieces and some paintings of artists like Lawren Harris who had influenced her style. The exhibit was small but one could truly drink in her paintings and feel what she tried to conveyed through her art. It was very moving.

Afterwards we headed to the Abkhazi Gardens which I wrote about in the previous post.

Saturday was beach day and we headed down to Gonzales Beach to have a picnic lunch and lay in the sun watching the kids play in the water and the whale-watching boats pound past. The air was crystal clear so the Olympic Mountains of Washington floated above us.

Suppertime found us at Christie's Carriage House Pub treating our neighbours, Ray and Cynthia, to supper in honour of their 80th birthdays. They have been very good at looking after the place during the renos so we felt a dinner out is a small price to pay for peace of mind. Besides, they are a fun couple and we had lots of laughs.

Today, we were golfing again at The Ridge. I struggled for the first three holes before finally shaking the double par scores off my back. At the 6th hole (a peninsula surrounded by water), both Glen and I plopped our balls on the green and parred the hole. It was a cause to celebrate. I ended up with 2 pars so had a strong finish. My second par was a whisper close to being a birdie.

We hope to end the day by Skyping with our grandsons which will finish the week off nicely.

Hidden Gems II

We discovered another hidden gem in Victoria within walking distance of our condo. In fact, we have passed it many times walking from Gonzales Beach to Safeway via Foul Bay Road. It's called the Abkhazi Gardens. Our friends, Tom and Isabel, invited us to join them for lunch there after viewing the Emily Carr exhibit at the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria.

The garden began when Marjorie (Peggy) Pemberton-Carter bought the property in late 1945 and built a summerhouse on its grounds. She began landscaping the land then received a letter from an exiled Georgian Prince, Nicholas Abkhazi, whom she had met in Paris in the 1920s. They married in November of 1946 and settled in a house built on the land in 1947. They each brought their own creative energy to the gardens and worked on them for 40 years.

The house and garden are now owned by The Land Conservancy of BC who acquired the property in 2000. They created a restaurant/tea room and gift shop in the home and it is here we had a delicious lunch.

The tea room had a few tables scattered over a stone patio but we chose to sit inside, enjoying the view from what was originally Peggy and Nicholas' sitting room. Glen had a refreshing beet salad while I had a cup of chunky tomato soup. Both were excellent. We then enjoyed Peggy's lunch of a crisp salad with balsamic vinaigrette and smoked salmon nestled on homemade bread, smothered with a dill/cream cheese spread. Beverages were tea, coffee, apple juice or water. I chose the Abkhazi Tea blend created by Silk Road Tea. It had a delicate flavour with a hint of vanilla finish. Glen drank Salt Spring Island Coffee with a flourless chocolate cake for dessert. Tom enjoyed freshly-backed scones with clotted cream and jam which I imagine is also served during the restaurant's afternoon cream teas.

He and Isabel left to deal with their alarm company while Glen and I wandered the gardens for about a half hour. It costs $10 per person to view them which helps cover the maintenance costs. Apparently, in the spring, the rhododendron garden is spectacular but we saw lots of summer flowers and enjoyed the pond with its resident turtle. We also saw a Spotted Towhee and Chestnut-backed Chickadee. An Anna's Hummingbird came to the feeder outside the dining room.

Week One in Victoria

The trip from Seattle was uneventful. We made the border crossing with ease and caught the noon ferry to Swartz Bay. We bought some groceries and prepared for the arrival of our venetian blinds. I'd received an email from the lady at Sears saying they would be delivered via Purolator and after checking the tracking number, we learned they'd arrive in Victoria the day after we did. Good thing, too as it was very hot and having window coverings to block the sun was the best way of cooling the condo.

Glen and I spent Friday in the condo doing laundry and hanging blinds. It was so nice not to drive anywhere. Saturday we walked to Willows Beach. Mt. Baker was the clearest I've ever seen it and the beach was awash of half-naked bodies enjoying the sun and little ones playing in the sand and water. The excitement of our walk was when two young bucks crossed Cordova Bay Road near Safeway and headed into a senior's residence. They didn't seem too perturbed about the traffic swerving around them.

Sunday found us smacking balls at the Mt. Doug driving range. We had to re-learn the clubs we use here and I must say when I connected with one of my irons, it slammed my hand pretty hard. We might have to buy new clubs next year as these are obviously old technology.

Monday, we walked downtown to do some banking and get Glen some cigars. He wanted to try a brand he'd read about called 'Cohiba'. Apparently, they were Fidel Castro's favourite and exclusive cigars. We decided to check out a cigar store on Fort St. called, what else? The Cuban Cigar Store. It is a wonderful place with more than just cigars.

We were meeting our friends, Iain and Janet, for lunch at Pescatores. I've blogged about this restaurant before and suffice to say, it is still good. I had a dozen raw oysters this time (6 different varieties). I have no idea which were which but they all had different flavours and textures.

Tuesday, we were up early to golf at Mt. Douglas Golf Course. We arrived just as Iain and his friend, Richard, finished their round (obviously very early risers). Iain had never played the course and acknowledge the greens were challenging. Our golf partners were two retirees from the prairies, Ted, originally from Regina, and Doug, from Calgary (close to where we used to live when Glen did his postdoc in the '80s). Ted was an excellent golfer but neither man took the game seriously. Doug said they allowed a mulligan on every hole.

Glen's game finally came together but I struggled with my putting. Ted did say I had a lovely swing which was flattering since I've worked so hard to make it so.

Wednesday, we met Diane at Swan Lake for her birding walk. This time there were more men so Glen didn't feel like a fish out of water. We didn't see as many birds but the walk and the talk were enjoyable. We spent the rest of the day enjoying a lovely lunch on Diane and Tony's deck and listening to all their renovation stories. Having 'been there, done that', we could easily relate.

Thursday, we played The Ridge Par 3 course and even though I was still fighting my putter, I had my best score ever. I also plopped it on the green on their signature hole #6, a feat Glen has yet to accomplish. On the way home, we stopped in at Home Depot to pick up two pots. One to act as a pedestal for our small fountain and the other to become a herb garden. After lunch we walked to Gardenworks on Oak Bay Ave and bought basil, chives, and cilantro. It is so nice having greenery in the condo.

Friday, we shopped Sears for clothes so that was a pretty mundane day.

Saturday we were up early to get Diane and Tony then catch the 8:30 am ferry to Salt Spring Island. It was market day in Ganges and the whole island turned out to either buy or sell. We wandered the market buying bread, cheese, and broad beans. And not unlike his Dad, Glen met someone he knew. Well, I knew them, too, so it was a nice mini-reunion with Hans and Sharon in the middle of the market. We then had coffee at TJ Beans before hitting the regular Ganges shops. I bought Xmas presents and stocking stuffers. On the way back to the van, we stopped at a fish store and got a lovely salmon for supper. After stashing our purchases (Diane bought cut flowers that we hoped would not wilt in the heat), we headed to the Oystercatcher Restaurant for lunch. Their Slipstone beers are good and on such a warm day, very refreshing. The service was very slow--add market day to island time and you have a recipe for a very long lunch. The mussels I had were good but not fantastic but Glen and Diane said the lamb burgers were delicious. Tony's fish was dry but he liked his chips so I guess there were pluses and minuses to our lunch.

Afterwards we took a detour on the way to the ferry and drove up Mt. Maxwell, the mountain in the centre of Salt Spring Island. The paved road soon gives way to a very bumpy dirt one but the views at the top are worth the effort to reach the look-off.

We had a quick coffee in Fulford Harbour then boarded the ferry. I was suffering from too much sun so rested in the van while the others enjoyed the sights from the ferry. Diane was thrilled to see an unusual bird called a pigeon guillemot.

Today, we returned to Diane's house as she wanted me to have her old mountain bike. Tony was pleased to get rid of one of their 5 bikes as it was taking up room in his garage. Tomorrow, we plan to buy bike helmets so we can maybe ride the Galloping Goose trail. Afterwards we played 36 holes on The Ridge's putting green. Slowly, I'm improving my short game.

Day Twelve - The Weedle on the Needle

We drove into Washington the next day and landed smack dab in wine country. I had hoped to see fields of onions since we were near Walla Walla, but the closest I came to that was a semi with an open cargo of golden onions. Hundreds of vineyards dot the Columbia River valley and I gave up writing down all their names. Apparently wine is a $3 billion industry for the state which doesn't include the tourism dollars spent exploring the region.

Another product of this area is hops and most are grown along the Yakima River. We saw the vines and instantly recognized them. I had often wondered where North American breweries bought their hops so now I know. The valley has 75% of the U.S. hops acreage and 2/3 of the crop is exported around the globe.

We couldn't linger in the area to explore as we wanted to reach Seattle by noon. Just north of Yakima, we left the I-82 which we began at the Oregon-Washington border. This road merged into the I-90 (this was the highway we drove from Butte to Billings, Montana). In Seattle, the I-90 highway meets the I-5 which travels from the Canadian border to Mexico. I had detailed instructions on how to reach our hotel, the Best Western Pioneer Square so we peeled off the I-5 at James Street and were there within minutes.

We were too early to check into this Victorian-style boutique hotel but the desk clerk directed us to the parking garage so we didn't have to park on the street. We'd had a quick lunch outside of Seattle so once parked and our bags stashed at the hotel, we walked down to the waterfront. The hotel is a block away from the ferry terminal and even closer to the refurbished historical district of Pioneer Square.

The area was reminiscent of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco and Seattle's steep hills added to this impression. We wandered past restaurants, harbour tours, and shops until we came to Pike Street. Glen has always wanted me to see the Pike Place Market so that was our destination. We also wanted to check out the various seafood restaurants as possible dining places. Pike Place Market did not disappoint with a variety of booths selling everything from photographs to fish. The seafood displays fascinated me but we didn't see anyone throwing fish for which the fish mongers are famous. I guess that happens earlier in the day when they are setting up their wares.

In our search for a WiFi signal, we came upon the first Starbucks store (actually, it was the second version of the first store), a tiny place across from the market. A couple of folksingers entertained outside. The shop was packed with a line-up down the block so we decided to go to a place we'd seen on the waterfront. After a lovely iced Chai tea latté (me) and plain coffee (Glen), we headed back to the hotel for a shower and check of email, etc. Our room was huge with a king size bed and two large, old fashioned wardrobes--one for clothes, the other for the TV set. The bathroom fixtures were gold-plated and the shower stall of modern design. Our view was of the building next door but we had been in hotels like this in other large cities so weren't upset we couldn't see the harbour.

Dinner found us at Fisherman's Restaurant on the waterfront. We wanted to sit outside on their large patio and the hostess led us to a place where I could be in the shade of their bright blue umbrellas. Glen and I each enjoyed an appetizer of six Northwest Oysters on the half shell. It left us wanting more so Glen ordered swordfish and I had salmon. We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Old Seattle Lager while waiting for our meals. The servings were huge so I was stuffed by the end of dinner but Glen was game for dessert. The strawberry shortcake was the largest I've ever seen. He managed to 'choke' it down then we waddled back to the hotel.

I chose the title 'The Weedle on the Needle' for my blog as homage to Stephen Cosgrove who wrote a book with the same title in 1974. We had bought it for Geoff when he was young, probably around 1978 or '79. It's about a creature called the Weedle who ends up living on the Seattle Space Needle. The books ends with the poem:

There's a Weedle

On the Needle

I know just what

You're thinking

But if you look up

Late at night

You'll see

His red nose blinking.

Day Eleven - Along the Oregon Trail

We began our day driving past Great Salt Lake and seeing the white deposits of salt left behind as water levels receded after the spring run-off. Apparently, Jim Bridger (see my 'Day Ten' post) was one of the first Europeans to see the lake and thought it was an arm of the Pacific Ocean.

At our first rest stop on the I-84 North, we realized we followed the same route the pioneers took as they traveled through Oregon Territory on their way to the west coast. This land would eventually become the states of Washington, Idaho, and Oregon. We soon crossed into Idaho and saw the potato farms for which the state is famous. Most were irrigated and the surrounding land was still sagebrush country.

After our picnic lunch of Roosters' leftovers, we began seeing signs for Ontario, Oregon. We didn't see the Zinnia flowers that are their claim to fame but the land was fertile and well farmed. The area was first explored by Peter Skene Ogden, a Hudson's Bay Company trader born in Quebec and the person for whom Ogden, Utah (where we had spent the previous night) was named. He also explored the Snake River which the highway followed as it meandered through the three states.

Glen had hoped to stay in Yakima, Washington because Geoff had bought a Yakima to store his camping gear and when we travelled with him, we knew his SUV by its Yakima. We took to calling him 'Yakima Boy'. However, it was late afternoon when we reached Pendleton, Oregon and decided to call it a day there instead.

The main road through the town was chewed up in preparation for paving so it was a bumpy ride trying to find a hotel. I finally spotted an America's Best Value Inn with a AAA recommendation so we pulled in there. Originally built in 1968, it was an old style motel and even smelled like the motel rooms of my youth. It had Internet service but that didn't work so for one brief moment we were out of contact with the outside world. The room rate was $73 which included a hot breakfast so was indeed the best value we had encountered on our trip.

The friendly desk clerk gave us a list of local restaurants and we chose a bar call Crabbys Underground Saloon. Little did we know this was a cowboy town and during their Round-Up, many cowboys from Alberta compete for local prize money. We met the cook at the door and he recommended his French Dip. After quaffing a couple of glasses of a local beer called Mirror Pond Pale Ale, we indulged in his excellent French Dip sandwich. I had it with a salad that was a meal in itself with lots of veggies and cheese. Later, the cook came over to see how we liked it (the place was not busy but apparently it's standing room only during September's Round-Up). He told us he made it with prime rib shaved thin that was leftover from their prime rib special nights.