Monday, June 1, 2015

Slovenja Trip Tidbits

Always when I write my travel blogs there is information that just doesn't fit into the narrative but would be helpful to know.  Here's is a list of bits and pieces that might be helpful should you visit Slovenja.

-- tips are included in the price of a meal, usually between 19 and 22%.  Tipping extra garners much appreciation

-- using a few Slovenian words like welcome (dobrodosil) and thank you (hvala) is always met with a smile.  Hvala sounds like folla with a v after the f (it's weird)

-- 60% of Slovenja is forested and what is logged, is exported to Austria

-- most villages have a linden tree where traditional gatherings solved disputes or made decisions affecting the community.

-- we had a chance to tour the famous Lipica stud farm where they've been breeding Lipizzaners (white horses) since 1580.  Maybe next time...

-- on our trip to the Cave, we saw Lake Cerknica, Slovenia's biggest lake, which only exists in the spring (it was dry when we passed it)

-- the official symbol of Ljubljana is a dragon as seen on the Dragon Bridge, supposedly the dragon was killed by the Greek, Jason, and his Argonauts as they passed through the Ljubljana marshes

-- most visitors to Slovenja are from Europe but it is also a big tourist destination for South Koreans

-- it has more casinos per 1000 people than any other European country (its population is only 2 million)

-- Ask for senior's rate at tourist sites if you are over 60 as it is a significant discount

-- If you have a chip credit card, know your password.  These aren't needed in the United States but everywhere else uses them

-- most hotels offer bed and breakfast.  Glen learned to enjoy a tiny cup of espresso whereas I loved cafĂ© lattĂ©

-- Slovenja is prosperous with clean streets and lush farms.  We only saw one beggar who asked Christian for money--he even spoke English

-- smoking is big in Europe and you just can't avoid it, especially in outdoor venues.  However, you don't see cigarette butts littering the streets

-- you can drink beer for breakfast in the Frankfurt airport and Cuban cigars are cheap at the Duty Free there






Playing Hookey

The next morning, while Glen attended his conference, I relaxed in our room knitting and reading, mostly on our balcony overlooking the lake.  What a wonderful view!

Since the afternoon was devoted to clinical studies of which Glen had little interest, he decided to play hookey.  We wanted to visit Bled Castle since he hadn't done so the last time.  But, how things have changed!  Instead of a dirt path winding its way up the flank of the hill, now a gravelled path with guardrails and benches zigzags up to the castle (it takes 15 minutes at an easy pace).

The castle (see photo) celebrated 1000 years of existence in 2011 and is the oldest castle in Slovenja.  It looms 130 m (426 ft) above the lake, hence in a great strategic position.   The entrance fee is 9 euros (about $12) for adults and that includes a 1.50 euro credit for the castle's restaurant.

The castle's roof was being re-tiled so a huge crane and scaffolding marred its beauty.  I was glad I'd photographed it before (see Stairway to Heaven?).  We found a letterbox just outside the castle which my first outside North America.  ON the castle's ramparts,  I snapped more pictures as Glen soaked in the ambiance.  A server for the restaurant pointed out Tito's summer house then brought us a couple of beers.  What a civilized way to see the castle.  Glen had no interest in viewing the museum and since clouds began to gather, we headed back to town stopping at our favourite, Pub Bled (see photo), just as the rain started.  We weren't the only ones who sought shelter but we were the first ones so we sat in our 'usual' seats which have a great view of the lake.

Back at the hotel, we were asked to fill out a tourist survey.  We ended up having a long chat with the young man.  He felt they could promote their country as a hub for seeing Croatia, Italy, Austria and Hungary since it was cheaper to stay in Slovenja and all these countries were less than an hour's drive away.  We told him he should consider his country a wonderful destination but perhaps it was a secret to be shared with only a few.  Our only complaint was there were only two flights per day between Slovenja and Frankfurt.

After breakfast the next day, I decided to have a look at Tito's summer house.  Tito (born Josip Broz--Tito was an assumed name) was a Croatian but born to a Slovenian mother so the country has a soft spot for him.  He fought in the Austro-Hungarian army in World War I but was captured by the Russians.  Revolting workers freed him and he joined a Bolshevik group where he embraced the idea of communism.  Upon returning to Kingdom of Yugoslavia, he joined the Communist party which was declared illegal in 1921.  He adopted various aliases (Tito) as his group pressured the government for change.  When the Nazi's invaded, the kingdom collapsed and Tito became leader of the Partisans who fought to liberate their people.  He was recognized as leader of the country after the war but his relationship with Stalin became strained.  When he was expelled from the union of socialist states (USSR), Tito turned to the US for support.  He developed a policy of neutrality which made Yugoslavia a friendly nation during the Cold War.  Most viewed him as a benevolent dictator who believed in the unity of Yugoslavia.  He died in 1980 in Ljubljana, Slovenja.

His summer house, now Vila Bled, sits on a hill next to the lake which offers fantastic views of the island church.  If you do the lake walk, you enter the grounds through its old stone walls.  There is a magnificent staircase up to the hotel and although I didn't enter the building, I did wander along the terrace.  The building is little changed from its 1950s luxury and it would be a fascinating place to stay.

I continued my walk meaning to turn back after I'd left the grounds.  Unfortunately, a local artist nabbed me and after telling him I had no money for his paintings, I hurried past him.  I felt uneasy about returning that way so decided to complete the circuit of the lake.  It takes 2 hours so I was ready for my lunch when I reached the Hotel Golf.

One fascinating aspect of Lake Bled is the lane buoys that dot the lake's surface.  The town has had rowing regattas for over 100 years.  Beginning in 1930, it has also hosted national and world championships.  In fact, we just missed the 2015 World Rowing Cup races that happened at the beginning of May.  At the main boathouse, not far from Vila Bled, they honour the Slovenian Olympic rowers who have won gold medals.

That evening, Glen and I walked down the stairs to the Grand Hotel Toplice for the conference banquet.  It began to rain as we enjoyed champagne on the terrace.  We dined on duck and lamb and met some young professors, one from Japan and the other from Australia (born in Africa).  Both spoke rather limited English but the African was the first person I've ever met who 'burst into a smile'.  After supper, we did three dances then left to pack.

We rose at 4 am, took the shuttle to the airport, had a small breakfast there, then flew to Frankfurt where we had a second breakfast.  I enjoyed a smoked salmon wrap but could not eat the arugula salad--too much arugula!  Our flight home was long but uneventful.  We landed at midnight our time so were happy to go to bed after supper and sleep flat.