Whitewater Rafting

As I said in a previous post, we really couldn't wrap our minds around this Costa Rican trip so I signed us up for tours then promptly forgot about them.  I wanted Glen to go whitewater rafting for his birthday but I was nervous so didn't really embrace the idea.  We did no homework on what to expect or how to prepare.  We learned a few ideas from Sheilah Tuesday afternoon but had to compromise on our choices.  For one thing, we decided to wear our sneakers but when I saw others with sandals, I ran back for mine.  Glen's rarely wears sandals so I'd left them at home.  We did bring a dry change of clothes but wore our swim suits and a T-shirt.  I left my camera, rings, bracelets in the hotel safe and decided against wearing my glasses when rafting (a good call).

We began the morning early leaving the hotel at 6:00 am.  This was the first of many long bus rides.  Rush hour traffic in San José is bad so if you have to cross the city to reach your destination, you need to leave early.  We were promised breakfast along the way, but I've learned this could happen later rather than sooner so we had a granola bar when we woke up.

Our rafting guide, Cristian, kept us entertained as the bus wound its way through the city, into the moist cloud forest of the moutnains, and through a very wet, rain forest.  It was a dreary ride but we learned a lot.

First, Costa Rica has no standing army.  It was disbanded in 1949 and the country has been a democracy ever since.  However, the police force is strong as crime in the city is high.  You see many homes behind barred walls but even the poorest houses have satellite dishes.  There are 4 million Costa Ricans and the poverty rate is about 23% (Canada sits at around 10%) so most Costa Ricans are living well.

Second thing we learned was the country has met all five criteria for environmental sustainability and despite being only 0.1% of the world's landmass, it has 5% of its biodiversity.  25% of the country's forests are in protected which make them enticing for ecotourism, a major industry of the country.  Investors are encouraged to protect the land and even if they create areas for tourists, they have to protect the wilderness as well.

Costa Rica is a country of exports.  Their biggest export (at 20%) is microchips.  The Intel factory was close to our hotel and the education system in Costa Rica allows them to hire locally (literacy rate is 94%).  Coffee has always been associated with the country since the first beans were introduced from Africa 200 years ago.  We didn't see a Starbucks shop but they do buy their coffee beans from the region.  Most of the plants grow in the Central Valley around the main cities.

Originally, the coffee was sold to Europe so Costa Rica asked an American to build a railway from the valley to the Caribbean coast.  They rewarded him with land on which he grew bananas that he exported to the US that soon rivalled coffee as the prime export.  Later, the country began growing pineapples which became the third cash crop for the nation.

We were pretty tired when we finally reached the Rios Tropicales Operations Center.  We'd been in the bus for two hours and ready to eat.  We had a hearty breakfast of omelettes, rice and beans (gallo pinto), fruit, juices, and coffee.  Then back on the bus for a ride to the Pacuare River.  We learned some 'survival' techniques should we fall into the river which didn't make me feel any better about the trip.  Cristian said we had to prepare to get very wet but the lifejacket would keep us warm.  We also had helmets and paddles.  Apparently, the best way to keep from falling overboard is to paddle.  We learned Forward (paddle), Back (paddle), Lean In and 'oh Shit' techniques.  Each was used on numerous occasions.  The last term meant everyone slipped into the raft and lifted up their paddles but Glen was too tall so he just leaned in.  Whenever we finished a particularly hard bit of rapids, we'd touch our paddles together and cry "Pura Vida" or "Good Life"!!  This is an important phrase in Costa Rica and can have many meanings.  It's also a great drink made with Guaro syrup (sugar cane distillate).

The rafting experience was 18 miles of whitewater or 3.5 hours of paddling through some wonderful rainforest jungle, canyons and of course, rapids.  We began in a flowing river which allowed us to get a feel for the raft but the calm was short-lived and we were soon bouncing through what I believe were Class II rapids which are said to be of moderate difficulty and in need of a good boat and guide. We had both.  We practised our manoeuvres so when we hit the first Class III rapid, we were as prepared as we could be.  These were rapids with numerous waves, high rocks with eddying waters through narrow passages.  Fortunately, we had a scout kayaking before us to lead the way.  Ours was the first of three rafts so we did see what to expect.  There are 4 Class IV rapids on the Pacuare.  These are described as long rapids, high waves, boiling eddies, and requiring an expert boatman.  Yes!  They were pretty darn scary but once the raft slid through them, it was exhilarating.  You can see the photos the company took of our trip through this river here.

We had several incidents as we traversed the river.  Each boat had a swimmer or someone who falls out.  Glen fell from our boat on a Class IV rapid which was scary.  He hung on while our guide flew down the raft to grab him.  With the help of our friend, Jay, they hauled him out.  Cristian said he'll never forget the sight of Glen's long legs flying into the air.  Another problem with his legs was he couldn't sit well on the front of the boat so kept slipping into me.  Fortunately, he pushed me into the boat rather than out but it wasn't easy scrambling up from the bottom of the raft.  As many of you know, I don't do well with zodiac-type boats (Galapagos) and this was no exception.  My bum hurt for days from the raft's slippery surface.  I thought my arms would suffer from paddling but I didn't have any stiffness.

Would I recommend doing it?  Yes, but please make sure you are dealing with a reputable company who has talented and hard-working guides.  Ensure that safety is foremost in their minds.  Cristian made sure he had me in his boat as I was the most nervous.  He wanted to make sure I would enjoy my trip (maybe I needed a more watchful eye, too).  I think our crew surprised him in our paddling efforts as he did 'tread the needle' of two big rocks which the other rafts avoided.

It was a short bus ride back to the operations center where we could get out of our wet clothes and enjoy a hot lunch.  Cristian said, "Breakfast is rice and beans but lunch is beans and rice".  We also had great chicken and delicious candied plantains.  A Segua beer washed it all down.

Most of us dozed on the long bus ride back to the hotel because the day wasn't over for us.  The conference's opening reception was that evening and we all wanted a long hot shower to warm up before that.  Dinner was served on the pool deck and it was chilly.  I wore a shawl but in the end, Glen got me my jacket as I was shivering so much.  The buffet was everything from yes, rice and beans, to cerviche (a variety of raw seafood dishes).  We sat with Neil and Jennifer, Sharon and Richard, Kathy and Ray (from Québec), and Baghi and his wife from Western Ontario.  It was a fun night but I wasn't the only one who was cold and tired and opted to go to bed early.  Those who didn't do the rafting trip got caught in a deluge while on their Tortuguero Park tour.  They saw lots of wildlife but felt the heavy rain really diminished the trip's enjoyment.