Monday, May 14, 2012

Beer and Boats


I awoke on Wednesday with a rash from my head to my toes.  I think it was a reaction to the amoxicillin I took for my sore throat.  I have a sensitivity to penicillin so this might be how it manifested itself.  Fortunately, there were no visible spots on my face but I spent the morning in the hotel room packing and taking it easy.

Glen joined me for lunch after his conference ended then we grabbed a tram to do the Heineken Experience.  On board, we met another conferee.  He'd sat near us on the canal ride the previous night.  We discussed our plans and he was off to do a canal tour.  All conferees were given free vouchers for a tour.  Glen had never picked his up so Alan gave us the two extra ones he had.

The tram announces the stop for the Heineken Experience so you can't miss it.  We weren't great Heineken beer drinkers but it is part of the Dutch culture so we wanted to see what it was all about.  Unlike the Guinness Storehouse (see In Dublin's fair city), we were among the oldest tourists doing the Experience.  Most were in their twenties and obviously came for the 'free' beer (admission was 17 euros or $22).  

The brewery was constructed in 1867 and served as the main Heineken brewery until 1988.  In 1991, it opened as a visitor centre and was completely renovated in 2008.  You begin the tour learning about the history of the brewery.  The company was founded in 1864 by Gerard Adriaan Heineken when he bought an existing brewery.  Now, it is the third largest brewer in the world.

In 1886, Dr. H. Elion, a student of Louis Pasteur developed a bottom-fermenting yeast (which produces a lager beer) called Heineken A-yeast and this yeast is still used today to make Heineken beer.  Henry Pierre Heineken who ran the company from 1917 to 1940, developed techniques that would allow large scale production and the company expanded its operations across the globe.  His son, Alfred (Freddy) Henry Heineken, had a flare for marketing and was responsible for brand logo.  The 'smiling e' in the Heineken name was a surprise to us.  Check it out sometime.

The tour then took us past the copper brewing kettles and we got to sample the wort (beer before the yeast is added) and were instructed on how beer was made.  I smelled something earthy which we discovered was the stables.  The Heineken Shire draught horses still pull beer wagons throughout the city.  I noticed that the horses had English names which was probably to honour their British heritage.

We climbed many stairs while experiencing the brewery and at the top of the next flight was the 'Brew U' experience.  This 'ride' took us through the brewing process then we emerged to sample the beer.  Next, you may create your own personalized bottle before being bombarded in a media room by the latest Heineken commercials.  We finally reached the 'World Bar' where we turned in our tokens to have a very cold, big glass of beer (you could also have two small glasses).  We also had a token for a free gift but you must ride the brewery's canal boat to reach the store so we decided to forego this.

As we left the brewery, we met Alan again.  He had had a wonderful cruise then decided the brewery tour might be fun.  We said our good-byes, then hopped the tram to begin our cruise at the Spui station while Alan did the Heineken Experience.

Rederij P. Kooij canal tours begin at the Rokin jetty beneath a statue of Queen Wilhelmina (ruled the Netherlands from 1890 to 1948).  Piet Kooij began the company in 1922 when he bought a run-down boat.  He had a knack for repairs and usually sold what he fixed up but this boat came with a launch license so he began ferrying tourist along the canals.  During the war, the Germans confiscated his boats but Canadian soldiers helped get them back from Germany.

Tours (fare is 9 euros or $12) are an hour long and the boats leave every 30 minutes (each boat is named for a member of the royal family).  At six o'clock sharp, we left the jetty then passed the Hotel de L'Euorpe a very posh, old-style hotel which I've since learned displays the private art collection of Freddy Heineken.  The boat then turned onto the Gentlemen's (Herengracht) Canal.  This canal is one of three that circle the old city (we actually crossed it while walking to Anne Frank's house) so you see many historic buildings of varying architectural styles. 

We passed under many bridges until finally coming into Amsterdam harbour.  Large ocean liners can no longer birth here so we only saw river barges plying its waters.  The port was first used in the 13th century and became the main port of the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century.  This company was given a 20 year monopoly on trade with Asia and is considered the first multinational corporation in the world (also the first to issue stock).

We returned to the Rokin jetty via the famous Red Light District (Rossebuurt) but only saw empty stools in the windows as it was late afternoon.  This district began in the 13th century when sailors came ashore hungry for female company.  As the years went by, the district changed with society's views on prostitution.  In the middle ages, prostitutes had a strict dress code and could not be married (and married men could not visit them, either).  When Napoleon ruled Holland, prostitutes were required to have health checks twice a week.  If you do tour the district at night, remember it is illegal to photograph the girls.

Our canal tour ended at seven and we decided to return to our hotel for supper since it would be a quick trip back to the room after a leisurely meal.  And no, we didn't drink Heineken with it.