Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Oyster Festival, Day 2


Glen read on-line there was to be an Oyster Festival parade at 11:30 am so we had a late breakfast then I packed up our bags.  After checking out of the hotel, we wandered over to Eyre Square where the parade was to begin.  We thought there'd be hordes of people but discovered the place was almost empty.
A band from Northern Ireland played some old tunes while we waited for the 'Oyster Pearl' (beauty queen) and the mayor to begin the 57th festival.  Apparently, the festival was the idea of a hotel manager who wanted to extend the tourist season into September and it has grown since 1956.  The mayor must eat the first oyster of the festival (some in the past have faked it) and Hildegarde Naughton quickly downed the succulent morsel.  School children led the procession followed by stilt walkers and international oyster shuckers bearing the flags of their countries.  We were happy to see Canada was represented and I’ve since learned he came in fifth in the Bollinger World Oyster Opening competition which was won by Belgium.  Michael Moran of Moran's Oyster Cottage, five-time champion, won the National Irish Oyster Opening competition again.
The parade was short so we followed it into the town enjoying the music.  As we passed various pubs and restaurants, we saw that both the Guinness and oysters flowed. Our train didn't leave until 3:00 so we had lunch at the King's Head Pub.  They advertised a plate of 6 oysters with brown bread and a free pint of Guinness.  Who could resist that?
The place was packed but we got a table easily enough.  While we ate our oysters, another group of old people sat down beside us.  A few minutes later, another joined them and he couldn't contain his excitement.  Bono of U2 was in the pub eating oysters and he had photographed him.  When we left, we checked to see if we could see Bono but did not.  I guess it was a case of 'almost meeting' rock and roll fame.
We ate two types of oysters in Galway.  The local ones are called Clarenbridge Oysters or European Flat Oyster (Ostrea edulis) and have a thick, buttery taste.  The town of Clarenbridge has their own oyster festival (begun in 1954) at the beginning of September, the Irish adhering to the rule that one doesn't eat oysters from May to August (months without an 'r').  The people of Clarenbridge have been harvesting oysters since Roman times and say their sheltered bay is perfect for growing them in a mixture of salt and fresh water.
The oysters we ate the previous day at The Quays were called Pacific Oysters but are not the same kind we buy in our grocery stores in Alberta.  Crassostrea gigas are also known as Japanese oysters and have been grown in Europe since 1966 when disease and overfishing decimated the native Ostrea edulis populations.

Typically, Galway oysters are served with lemon but horseradish and Tabasco often accompany the dish.  A small salad and thick, brown bread round out the meal.  And, of course, a pint of Guinness.

After lunch, we headed to the train station.  It was small with no PA system so when a train arrived, we began to board with all the others.  An eagle-eyed conductor sent us back otherwise we would have travelled to Limerick.  The ride to Dublin was quiet except for a screaming baby (the last hour).  At Heuston station in Dublin, we found the bus to the airport.  Unfortunately we didn't have the exact fare so the bus driver had to dip into his pockets to give us our change.  He was short by a euro but we didn't quibble.  The bus took us on a tour of Dublin as it circled the downtown to pick up passengers.

At the airport, we had problems finding the shuttle stop for the Radisson Blu hotel.  Finally I spotted the shuttle bus and ran, dragging our luggage behind me.  There were others at the stop loading their bags onto the bus so we arrived, gasping for breath, before it left.  The hotel is an aging building but the rooms were clean.  It was close to 8:00 pm by the time we went to O'Deas Irish Bar for a supper of burgers and chunky chips (french fries in Ireland are never slim) washed down with Guinness.

We were up early to catch the 6:45 shuttle to the airport.  We made our way through customs and security then had breakfast at a cafeteria--orange soda (big mistake), danishes (bigger mistake) and strong coffee.  Our plane left on time and a man changed positions with me so I could sit beside Glen.  The flight was uneventful except that the man next to me was a retired air force helicopter pilot from Halifax.  We arrived in London early so the plane circled the city waiting to land.  The weather was clear so we saw all the sites from Tower Bridge to the Houses of Parliament.

After landing, we again ran the gauntlet of customs and security.  We had plenty of time before our next flight so we shopped at the Duty Free and bought Glen his favourite cigars.  Lunch drew near but I could not look at food I was so ill.  Glen had no British money but discovered Starbucks could use his card despite its being in Canadian funds so he bought a coffee and a muffin.  I had a few nibbles but they didn't settle my stomach. 

At the gate, Glen asked to be seated together.  We ended up with bulkhead seats which suited Glen.  At this point, I could care less.  We had issues with boarding but only because I wasn't thinking straight.  I just wanted to sleep which I did until they served supper.  I ate the roll and drank some ginger ale.  A couple of hours later when the plane hit some pretty rough turbulence, I was violently ill.  Having no time to reach the bathroom, I used my blanket.  The woman beside me leapt from her seat to get an attendant while I tried to wake Glen.  He grabbed the bag the blanket had come in and I used that until I was done.  Of course, I felt fantastic afterwards but very sorry I had caused such a mess.  I swore our breakfast danish was the culprit but Glen wasn't convinced since he was not sick.

By the time we landed, I felt more myself although still a little shaky.  Meg and Mike met us and drove us home.  We then ordered Chinese from Ginger Beef Take-Out for supper and I had some wonton soup.  After eating, I was ready for bed.  Later that night, it was Glen's turn to be ill so he now believes we suffered from food poisoning.