...it is so very green. And why? Well, it rains. A lot. Our breakfast hostess said it rained 360 days of the year. We laughed but the city does get 45 inches (1147 mm) per year so she may not have been far wrong. Some of this precipitation fell on Monday, September 19th.Glen went off to his meetings at the university while I waited for the heavy rain to cease. By 10, it looked like the weather was easing so I headed out. I didn't take my umbrella as I hate fumbling with it while taking photographs but I did dress in layers -- sweatshirt, polar fleece, and raincoat.
I hadn't gone far when the light mist turned to a heavy mist and by the time I reached Galway Harbour (above picture), it had begun to sock in. I ended up switching to my waterproof camera as the rains came down, sometimes in blinding sheets.
Galway, or Gaillimh, was named for its river, now called the Corrib and is often referred to as the City of Tribes because in Norman times, it was ruled by 14 merchant families or tribes. These are celebrated in the town square which was the first stop on my walking tour of the city. Here, banners to the families fly near a stunning sculpture of the sails of the Galway Hooker (a fishing vessel).
I wandered from the square down the main shopping street. I was not the only one braving the elements but few were tourists. I crossed the Corrib River into Claddagh, famous for its rings which are a token of love and are often used as a wedding ring. They were first produced in the 17th century and depict two hands (friendship) holding a heart (love) topped by a crown (loyalty). Depending on which way you wear it and on which finger, you can show that you are available, in a relationship, engaged, or married.
After enjoying the harbour views, I made my way toward the Cathedral and despite having a map, I got lost among the side streets. I knew the River Corrib was on my right and only a few bridges crossed it so I made my way toward what I felt was a major road. Here I found the university and its hospital. Glen didn't know how close I was to him. Keeping the green-copper dome of the cathedral in my sights, I made my way towards it.
What a stunning building! It is a very modern cathedral but has all the elements of one much older. Called Our Lady Assumed into Heaven & St. Nicholas, it is the youngest stone cathedral (built in 1965) in Europe. The stained glass windows were vibrant and the stations of the cross, very moving. As a group of worshippers chanted in one of the chapels, hushed tourists admired the splendid mosaic of Christ on the cross.
After crossing the river near its famous Salmon Weir where the water broiled through the sluiceways, I came upon another stone church. Much older but also named for St. Nicholas. It is said Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1477 which was possible as the church is dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra, the patron saint of sailors. Built in 1320, it is the largest medieval stone church still in use in Ireland (these days by Anglicans).
Nearby was the house of Nora Barnacle. Of humble birth, she later gained fame as first the mistress then the wife of writer/poet, James Joyce. It bills itself as the smallest museum in the world but it was closed so I'll never know.
By this time the rain was heavy so I scurried back to the hotel for a late lunch. I felt the need for a Guinness so went to the bar but they didn't serve food. I was the only one in the restaurant when I entered and the host assured I didn't need to eat at the buffet and yes, he could get me a Guinness. As I was wrestling with a loaf of bread trying to slice off a couple of slabs for a sandwich, he came hurrying back.
"Are you sure you want a pint?" he asked. "They are quite big."
I laughed. "I'm Canadian, I can drink a pint of Guinness." And I did.
The next day when he saw me, he called me his "Little Guinness Girl."
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