Happy Arthur's Day!!

One place in the Galway region that was on my must-see list was the Aran Islands.  I have knitted several Aran island type sweaters over the years and was always fascinated in the stories of the patterns.  Each knitter has an unique pattern she (always women in the past) used to create sweaters for her menfolk.  The story goes that often drowned fishermen were identified by the sweater they wore.

There are three islands making up the Aran Islands:  Inis Mor (big island), Inis Meanin (middle island), and Inis Oirr (eastern island).  Aran Island Ferries runs passengers to all three islands but the route to Kilronan on Inis Mor (pronounced 'Inishmore') has more sailings (extra ones between June and September).  According to their brochure, the bus to the harbour of Ros an Mhil (Rossaveal) left Galway an hour prior to sailing (there are other ferries which depart from Doolin) and since we wished to board the 10:30 am ferry, we left the hotel at 9:00.  The ferry office was a block from the hotel so we quickly paid for our passage (senior rates pose a significant savings), then headed to the bus stop near Eyre Square.  We weren't the only ones waiting and met a couple from Maine who were in Galway to participate in the Oyster Festival.

After an hour's bus ride on a double-decker, we boarded the ferry.  The seas had been rough the previous day (note the picture on the Cliffs of Insanity blog) but they appeared calm as we chugged slowly through the harbour.  It was an illusion, of course, and when we hit the open water, the seas grew.  I have seen much worse but for those with tender tummies, expect a rough ride.

We reached Kilronan around 11:30 and after obtaining a map from the tourist office, we headed up the road leading to the interior.  Others from our group rented bicycles while older folks opted for horse-drawn traps or tour vans (these act as taxis and will pick up hikers as they circle the island).  Since I knew I was there to photograph the scenery, a bike was not my preferred mode of transportation and as it turned out, the island's hills forced many bikers to dismount.

Inis Mor was nothing what I expected -- it was so much more.  The day was bright, the bracken burnished, and the lichen spotted rock walls craggy.  Clouds scudded across the island's skies but the rains never came.  The islands are geologically related to the The Burren which we'd seen the previous day and as we left the town, we made a detour onto the flattened, moon-like landscape.  From this elevation we could see the other islands and the lighthouse which was our destination.

"Why would you build a lighthouse in the middle of an island?" Was the question we kept asking ourselves as we walked the island road.  It was a steep climb to reach it and the tower was at least a kilometer from the sea.  Turns out the lighthouse was a complete failure and had been abandoned soon after it was built.

Also on this, the highest part of the island called Dun Arann, was a Signal Tower and round stone fort (Dun Eochia).   The signal tower was a medieval structure whereas the lighthouse was modern.  We scrambled up the rusting circular staircase to the top of the lighthouse and enjoyed wonderful views of the island (above photo).  The stone fort lay at our feet so we descended to explore that.  There were no guardrails or plaques, just two sets of circular walls.  We later learned it had been constructed between 550 and 800 A.D. and may have been a dwelling rather than a fort with livestock occupying the outer circle.  We were shocked to think we had scrambled over structures that old.

By this time, 1:30 pm,  I was hungry so we left the fort.  We'd past a bar on the road outside town so quickly headed to that.  Ti Joe Watty's is a happening place but for lunch, it seemed like an ideal spot.  Besides, in honour of Arthur's Day (see title), Guinness was cheap (1.5 euro less than usual).  We had a tasty shepherd's pie sitting by a warm peat fire.   I've come to love both Guinness and peat fires.  Arthur's Day actually began September 22, 2009 (at 17:59) on the 250th anniversary of the Guinness brewery and has continued since then.

After lunch, we returned to the town of Kilnonan and explored the Aran Sweater Market & Museum.  I knew I would buy a sweater but which one became the question.  In the end, I settled for a machine knit, Merlino wool cardigan in a biscuit colour.  The hand-knit sweaters were expensive and not made by island woman anymore.  I was tempted to buy the unworked yarn but knew it wouldn't fit into my suitcase (I can order it on-line as it turns out).

We caught the 5:00 pm ferry which left at 4:45 so it was good we got to the dock early.  Our Maine friends were not on board but another ferry left soon after so we saw them board our bus at Ros an Mihl.  An hour later, we were back in Galway and after a brief stop at our hotel, went out in search of supper.

There were hordes of young people milling about every pub and off-license in town, all celebrating Arthur's Day.  Hundreds, all toting glasses of Guinness, packed the main shopping street and every pub overflowed with those imbibing.  We wanted to eat as well as drink and did not want to battle the crowds so made our way back to McGuinns on the Quay.  The proprietor recognized us and said, "Well, today you are definitely drinking Guinness."  He ordered it as we found a table.  The place was packed but not too noisy.  I enjoyed a chowder and crawfish salad while Glen had Irish stew.  Not long after we sat down, a trio began playing and did some great covers of Queen and even some old Fifties songs.  We took the backstreets home to avoid the drunk kids and tumbled into bed.  What a great day and we certainly did Arthur Guinness proud.