Visit to the Big, Wet Thing

Anyone who knows me, knows I have always mixed my metaphors.  I don't do this on purpose but for some reason, my brain tangles them up.  Perhaps it comes from working alone and my socializing brain can't think and talk at the same time.  Who knows?  However as I get older, I am also losing my 'noun' recall.  We were in Victoria for a month and one day after buying fish at Finest-at-Sea, I told Glen I want to drive by the ocean on the way home.  It came out of my mouth as driving by the big, wet thing.  Of course, it became an embarrassing standing joke that apparently never 'got old'.

So yes, we began the year enjoying our condo in Victoria next to the big, wet thing.  I had had a pretty stressful December--I always devote too much energy to Christmas (note to self--not next year).  Christmas was fun but on Boxing Day, we had to pack up all our Christmas decorations, put away our gifts, and pack for Victoria.  We were up very early the next day, flew out of Calgary and were in our condo by 8:30am.  We unpacked, bought groceries, napped then went to Christie's for supper.  After sharing chicken wings, I had gyoza and Glen had fish and chips.  Tip: Christie's gyoza dipping sauce mixed with malt vinegar is a taste sensation.

Rather than bore you with five weeks of 'we did this on this day then that on the next', I'm organizing this blog into activities.

Birthdays:

There are many family birthdays in January but the ones we celebrated in Victoria were mine at the beginning of the month and Glen's in the middle.  I had been ill a few days before mine suffering some sort of stomach flu so the thought of a fancy dinner didn't sit well with me.  All I felt like was dinner out at Christie's (I had a veggie pizza while Glen indulged in their yorkies stuffed with roast beef). However, we began the day with a session at the driving range (the golf courses were closed due to frost) then drove out to Tillicum Centre to see the new Star Wars movie in the afternoon.

Glen's birthday began with a round of golf (you see a pattern here?) then lunch at the clubhouse (with our friends, Janet and Iain).  We had pea soup and half pastrami sandwich special since we knew we'd be dining at the Marina Restaurant that evening.  You only turn 65 once and that is a cause to celebrate (Glen learned he got a discount on his BC car insurance so was chortling all day about that).    He had his favourite liver paté while I had oysters then we both had the catch of the day, ling cod for Glen and trout for me.

As we were being seated, I told the hostess that because it was Glen's birthday, he should have the better view of the harbour.  When we finished eating our fish, the server brought Glen a plate on which the chef had written Happy Birthday.  It had a single candle and three chocolate truffles. Very sweet of them!  It didn't stop Glen from ordering a creme brulée for dessert.

We were up early the next day to continue his celebration with breakfast at The Shine Café.  We had planned to do this on New Years Day but they didn't open until 9:00 and we couldn't wait that long.  Glen had their signature Eggs Benedict with roasted potatoes while I had their Nemo which featured smoked salmon rather than ham.  I asked for Scottish potato scones which looked more like pancakes than biscuits.

Walking:

There were a few days of solid rain but mostly the weather was cloudy with showers and an occasional jolt of sunshine.  This made walking a treat although we didn't get in as much as we'd planned.  However, we did go down Fort Street so Glen could buy some cigars and several times made our way to the MokaHouse coffee shop via the grocery store.  We also did the trip to Hillside Mall, checking out all the new townhouses being build along Shelbourne Rd.  One day, Monica, a Calgary friend, invited us to coffee at her favourite place, Serious Coffee on Oak Bay Ave and we walked there to meet her.

We also strolled along the beach at Cadboro Bay.  Originally we planned going to Willows Beach but took the scenic route and ended up on the wrong beach.  There were two sailboat wrecks, one of which created controversy as its owners had abandoned it.  It was rather unsightly but made for interesting photos.

Our only garden trek was to Beacon Hill Park.  I wanted to re-plant a lost letterbox and see what was blooming (roses, primroses, and early rhododendrons).  The peacocks were pairing up so we saw several tails displayed.  On our way back to the car, Glen and a Iroquois native began chatting.  He told us of his spirit animals and how he had spit at the feet of the Queen of England.  He had fought in Vietnam and met more dignitaries than I can list.  I began to think he was a bit like Forrest Gump.  He probably thought we were gullible white guys and was laughing at us inside.

Golfing:

We wanted to experience winter golf this year and had the chance to do so several times. The Ridge at Cordova Bay is a well-drained and maintained course so playing there was fun although I had to bundle up.  At one point, I had on 5 layers of clothing.  Janet and Iain joined us and we had lots of laughs over the frustrations of the game.  Twice we went to lunch with them at Bill Mattick's Restaurant in the clubhouse of the Cordova Bay Golf Course.

We also played Cedar Hill Golf course twice.  The first time was a slog but we pretty much had the same score as in the summer.  The second time, the conditions were worse.  We had had a deluge of rain a couple of days before and it did not improve the course.  I was up to my ankles in water in places and hitting from the fairway meant getting a muddy shower.  We played with an older gent called Geoff who said we must create winter golf rules to make play enjoyable.  He often drove his cart partway down the fairway to tee off and he'd move his ball to higher ground if it landed in a muddy patch.  If there is a next time, I will not keep score, that's for sure!

Birding:

Diane and Tony often do a birding trip around the Gulf Islands on a BC Ferry and invited us to join their group.  The first Sunday trip was cancelled due to high winds and rain.  The second one was a go so we awoke at 5:15am to get to the ferry in time to join the rest, picking up Diane and Tony along the way.  Glen was determined to get a senior's discount so told the ticket seller that he was 65.  The man replied, well, I'm 60.  After a moment's silence, I started to laugh.  There are no discounts for seniors on the ferries on the weekend and rightly so.  Our group consisted of 38 birders and I was the only one without binoculars.  Glen had borrowed Tony's old pair.  I figured I'd use my camera if I needed to see anything.  It was a great day for the trip with no rain and little wind but cool enough for gloves.  And we did see lots of birds, mostly in the harbour areas.

The ferry we caught, the Bowen Queen, does a circle route and we remained on board the entire time.  First stop was Pender Island where we saw Pelagic Cormorants whose feathers were iridescent in the sun.  Most of the cars left the ferry here.  Our next stop was Village Bay on Mayne Island (we often buy Village Bay oysters here in Calgary).

As we were going into the narrows between Mayne and Galiano Islands, I wandered off to take photos of the ferry.  A young crew member asked me if I'd like to see the bridge.  He had two men in tow so I guess I was the token woman.  He told us that only a few were invited up to the bridge so I had no time to alert the others of my luck (big mistake).  It was an amazing experience where I talked charts (which they don't use anymore) and sailing with the captain.  He had been in the Canadian Navy and since my Dad had sailed with the British Navy during the war, I felt a strong bond with him.  I also learned a lot about the currents between the islands and how ferry system works.

As we approached the Galiano ferry dock, another ferry came up behind us.  'Traffic control' told the captain he must wait and let the Mayne Queen pick up a dangerous goods truck.  This ferry does a dangerous goods run every Sunday and carries no passengers.  The first mate took the Bowen Queen out into the main channel then brought her around.  Then the captain took over to bring the boat into the dock.  As he did so, I went out on the wheelhouse deck.

I saw Glen on the main deck and called down to him.  If looks could kill!  Turns out he had hunted the ferry for me calling my cellphone several times (for some reason my phone was acting up so I never received the calls).  He was just about to alert the crew I was missing when I called to him.  I spent a bit more time on the deck checking out the birds (remember that's why I was there), then went below to have a picnic lunch with Glen, Diane and Tony.  I was so excited about my adventure that I think Glen forgave me.  Not so sure about the others, though.  I behaved myself on the trip back.  Gotta love the magic of travel experiences!!

Dining:

My mother always says reading my blogs makes her hungry so having a section on food seems appropriate.  To me travel is all about experiencing the food a region offers.  I've already described a few of our meals but others are worth mentioning, too.

It's been several years since we had a meal at The Swans Brewpub.  Diane suggested we meet them there so we walked down.  It built up our appetite (Glen had prawn linguine while I enjoyed their veggie panini) and excellent beer (I had oatmeal stout).  We ate on their covered, glassed-in patio under a very good heater.  I actually removed my outer layers!  Diane wanted to make us shepherd's pie (she is a fantastic cook) so we made plans to meet for lunch at their house in Gordon Head.

This seemed to be a theme for while dining with Janet and Iain after golf (chowder and smoked salmon bagel at Bill Mattick's), Janet invited us to lunch at their place.  She served a wonderful seafood dish that still has my mouth watering.  The reason for the visit was to meet her sister.  Apparently, Grace thought we were 'invisible friends'.  Although born in Scotland, Grace came to Canada to teach and met her husband, a native Victorian, and settled in BC.

The Beagle Pub has become a favourite haunt of ours in Cook Street Village.  It's a cozy place to dine after a walk in Beacon Hill park.  Glen had fish and chips while I ate a halibut wrap.  The table next to us seemed to be a group of older gentlemen enjoying stories and laughs.  One ordered apple crisp for dessert and reluctantly shared it with his companions.  Glen decided he wanted one, too.  Well it wasn't long before the old men kidded him about sharing with them.  As we lingered over coffee, the group left.  One had propped his cane near my chair and when he came over, explained they were all ex-RCAF, the oldest being 97, the youngest 80.  They met once a week but had to have a walk beforehand (some had walkers in tow).  He and Glen talked planes for a bit before his comrades called him over to re-join them.

What would a trip to Victoria be without a meal at Don Mee's?  As usual, we filled our table with dim sum goodness, getting all our favourites and adding ginger beef and BBQ pork to the mix.  We had enough leftovers for dinner and lunch the next day.  Which was just as well as I spent the day preparing a lunch for Diane and Tony, making the base for sausage soup, the meat sauce for lasagna, and baking Italian lemon cakes.

Since I didn't feel like cooking supper, we planned an evening at Christie's with our floor neighbours, Ray and Cynthia.  They keep an eye on our place while we are away and are very sweet people.  We walked over to Christie's and thoroughly enjoyed our meal together.  Glen and Ray had meatloaf while Cynthia had fish and chips and I enjoyed chicken quesadillas.  During dinner we made plans to meet up with their daughters at Sue's new townhouse.  We hope to move into a townhouse when Glen retires so were anxious to see an example of the newer ones.  We fell in love with it!!  So much room and so much light.  Exactly what we need.

Tradition has it that we dine at airport The White Spot when we fly out of Victoria.  Glen contends they have the best burgers anywhere and I love the light batter of their fish and chips.  We had plenty of time before our flight so instead of sitting in our living room waiting to leave, we left.  When we hit the restaurant it was very busy but we got a nice booth where I could easily stash our hand luggage.  Just as we finished eating, the whole place emptied out.  Glen asked the waiter if it were something we said.  Turns out the young man was a native Islander and also served tables at a golf course which he said we should play.

Work:

It wasn't all fun, games and eating, of course as Glen had scientific papers to review, media interviews to give, lectures to create, and a conference to organize.  I also did work on the conference website, knitted, and spun.  Added to the normal tasks involved with running a household, Glen also re-grouted the master bath's tub.  One day, I hope to lay a tiled floor in there.  We keep promising ourselves this but the whirlwind that is Victoria sweeps away our best intentions.

Better Late Than Never

I'm pretty sure I've used this title before as sometimes life gets in the way of blogging.  This time I was forced from procrastination mode by a good friend.  She knew I'd been to visit the grandkids in November and when she didn't see my blog post, was worried about me.  A fan and a friend.  Thanks, Jennifer!!  The reason I didn't write was because we had more of a 'family' experience than a 'travel' one but that's really not a good excuse.

As readers of these pages know, I love Thanksgiving (see Another Wonderful Thanksgiving) and a bonus of having an American arm to our family tree is I can sometimes squeeze two thanksgivings into a year.  The Canadian holiday is the second Monday in October whereas the US celebrates the last Thursday in November.  Both enjoy the same foods (turkey, stuffing/dressing, potatoes, root veggies, and pies) and the same sense of thankfulness for a good harvest and a loving family.

We enjoyed our Canadian feast with our daughter, Meg and her husband, Mike.  They had just returned from a holiday in Victoria so we had fun hearing about their adventures (the strata had changed the lock on our condo while they were out being tourists).

Our flight to Denver began with my leaving my camera bag at the gate.  Our seats were at the very back (that's where you end up when using airline points) so I had to 'swim upstream' to reach the gangway to retrieve it.  I don't think the flight attendant was going to let me leave but I just brushed passed her in good 'old lady' fashion.  The gate attendant didn't stop me as I bustled past her and grabbed my bag.  It looked very lonely on the empty bench and I was glad someone hadn't reported it abandoned or had blown it up!

Back on board, I made friends with those around me as they sympathized with my plight.  Glen and I were not sitting together so I made friends with a woman from Grande Prairie and a man from Colorado Springs.  Both were hockey fans with children involved in the sport so I learned what I had missed (not much).

We landed in a snow storm--a harbinger of the week ahead.  It took us 3 hours to drive to Geoff's house, a trip that usually takes 30 minutes.  We had the grandsons Elijah and Miles with us as Melissa was at a concert.  They finally fell asleep at 11:00 pm, just before we got home.

Normally the weather of Denver at this time of year mimics Calgary's in October so we brought our polar fleeces and rain jackets and not our winter coats.  There were some shivery days and the traditional Thanksgiving football game played by the Armstrong males was abandoned although Miles and Glen did spend some time outside-Miles making snow angels while Grampy shoveled.

Since the kids had the day before Thanksgiving off, Melissa suggested we see the Poisons and Sherlock Holmes exhibit at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science.  She used to work as a volunteer at this wonderful place and so it has a soft spot in our hearts.  It also has the best view of the city!

We spent most of the morning going through the exhibits and doing all the interactive aspects of the Sherlock Holmes display.  It was very well done.  Glen and Miles solved the crime!  I don't want to give away any spoilers as the exhibit goes to Edmonton's Telus World of Science in March and I know some Albertans read this blog.  Go see it, if you can, it is so worth the money.

We were all famished afterwards so Melissa suggested we go to Fat Sully's for lunch.  It was close to one of her concert venues, a dive bar that looked like it had seen better days but I gather that's the definition of a good dive bar.  At the restaurant, Melissa assured us one slice of pizza was all we needed and she was so right.  The boy's slices were almost as big as they were (see above photo).  Due to its popularity, we had to wait for a table but as luck would have it, two became available.  We wisely chose the booth.

Other than a take-home meal of Jim 'N Nicks BBQ, we enjoyed the great cooking of Melissa and Geoff and the wonderful beer one can drink in Denver.  We had great fun playing with the kids building things with Lego and creating our own card games (who knew there was such a thing as 2 person, collaborative solitaire?)

The only downside of such a late Thanksgiving holiday is Christmas comes up much faster.  I had to hit the ground running when we arrived back in Calgary.  What with hosting an open house and getting six packages of gifts ready to send off to points across Canada, I had no time to write this blog.  Now I'm glad Jennifer 'twisted my arm' as I could re-live that fun time!

Walkabout

As you know from previous posts, when Glen attends a conference, I do a walkabout.  Curiosity drives me and who wants to spend the whole day inside when there are new things to experience.  Breakfast was included in the conference fees so Glen and I enjoyed it with a grad student and post-doc from University of British Columbia.  Glen is at the point in his career where he's a magnet for young academics who want to tap his knowledge.  He is always willing to share.

We were to meet for lunch so I organized my Monday walkabout with that in mind.  My plan was to hunt for another letterbox.  It had been planted in the spring but the last few attempts at finding it had failed.  I hoped I'd be luckier.  The box was hidden in the middle of the financial district but first I stopped at a artistic display we had passed on Saturday.  Turns out it was the work of the winners of Design Biennial Boston which recognizes emerging architects and designers.  These were modern art concepts set in a small park for the city to enjoy.

The letterbox was a tribute to George Thorndike Angell who helped found the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and brought about the state's first anti-cruelty legislation.  He was also an advocate for public health and safeguarding food.  The fountain in the memorial plaza was originally designed to provide water for carriage horses.  In 1982, a dry pond created using bronze marked the 125th anniversary of the humane society.  One of Angell's quotes inscribes the base of the pond:  "Our humane societies are now sowing the seed of a harvest which will one of these days protect not only the birds of the air and beasts of the fold but also human beings as well."

I also didn't find the letterbox but did enjoy the park next door in Post Office Square.  It had a wonderful vine-laced pergola which beckoned people from the surrounding office buildings to come and enjoy a moment of peace in their hectic lives.  It was dedicated to Norman B Leventhal, a prominent Boston businessman and philanthropist (died in April 2015) who oversaw the park's creation.  Built on the top of a parking garage, the parking fees pay for the park's upkeep.  Home to 125 species of plants, it's an unique oasis in this concrete jungle.

I happen to love concrete jungles and Boston's financial district is a treat for anyone who enjoys startling architecture (see photo).  There was an exciting mix of old and new with lovely art deco highlighting the steel and glass.  I couldn't linger as I had to return to the Westin where I enjoyed a quick bag lunch with Glen.  Afterwards, I waited while he and his colleagues made their presentation to the committee.  I spent the afternoon knitting while watching the comings and goings of the harbour view from our room's window.

The supper provided by the conference were light canapés which didn't appeal to us so we returned to MJ O'Connor to enjoy fish and chips (Glen) and onion soup and ahi tuna salad (me).  Both were excellent.  It also gave Glen a break from the science and politics of the conference.

My walkabout on Tuesday was to see the working side of the harbour.  Instead of heading into town, I explored the Seaport district.  I also wanted to check out the boat where we'd be having our Harbour Cruise/Dining experience on that evening.  After having fun photographing fishing boats at the Boston Fish Pier (celebrated its 100 anniversary last year), I ended up at Harpoon Brewery (see previous post).  In between, I checked out the World Trade Center Boston and Liberty Wharf.  The latter was the dream of Jimmy Doulos, a young Greek immigrant, who opened Liberty Café in 1924 at the Boston Fish Pier selling seafood to his patrons.  Five years later, he moved to a nearby wharf and built a restaurant that catered to all, even the famous Kennedy family.  Now, it is an upscale dining experience with modern office spaces above the restaurants.  Jimmy was known as the 'Chowder King' and died a wealthy man in 1981.  Not bad for a someone who arrived in Boston with $13 in his pocket and speaking no English.

Glen and I shunned the bus provided and walked down to Commonwealth pier where the newly-renovated Spirit of Boston waited.  The cruiser had two floors of dining and an observation deck.  Since we were early, we got a window seat but because the boat didn't depart until after we had eaten, this made little difference.  We spent most of the cruise on the upper deck enjoying the harbour lights.

Dinner was buffet-style so perhaps it was just as well we didn't eat while underway.  We enjoyed salad and veggies as well as salmon, chicken and boneless ribs all washed down with Samuel Adams Boston Lager.  The cruise did a tour of Boston Inner Harbor and passed many landmarks which we knew from our walks.  When we turned around at Fort Independence, Glen and I watched the airplanes come and go.

Fort Independencce sits on Castle Island, a site that has been a key fortification in protecting the harbour since 1634.  Called Castle William by the British, it was first an earthen, then a timber fort.  They abandoned it, burning it to the ground, when George Washington's army attacked in 1776.  It was quickly rebuilt and named Fort Adams.  In 1797, it became Fort Independence and the present fort was erected in the 1830s.  It was an important military hub during the Civil War and World Wars I and II.  Edgar Allan Poe, who served there, took inspiration from a tale he heard and wrote, The Cask of Amontillado.

Due to a breakdown in communications, we thought the conference ended that evening so had booked to fly out the following morning.  Glen missed several key talks which was a shame.   The flights were good and we arrived on time.  We had supper at a local restaurant, ironically called, Boston Pizza.

Make Way for Ducklings!

When the children were younger, one of their favourite books was Make Way for Ducklings by Robert McCloskey, published in 1941.  A mother duck takes her brood from the Charles River to the Boston Public Gardens.  Little did we know this book is the official children's book of Massachusetts or that there was a statue of the ducklings in the park.  I loved the duckling's names of Jack, Kack, Lack, Mack, Nack, Ouack, Pack, and Quack.

It was a misty morning on Sunday, a great day for ducks, when we began our walk to Boston Common and the nearby Public Gardens.  Boston Common, created in 1634, is the oldest city park in the United States.  The British camped there before marching to Lexington (see Paul Revere's Ride in the previous post) and until 1830 was often a cow pasture.

We headed north on Summer Street making a detour at the South Station.  This Amtrak depot had an ornate exterior (opened in 1898) which promised an equally antique look inside.  No such luck.  The building suffered several demolitions over the decades as train travel decreased.  It wasn't until the 1970s that it was finally named an historic site.  In 1984 (the year Samuel Adams beer was created--see previous post) renovations began.  It now houses Amtrak, subway, and bus stations.

As we left the station, it began to rain.  We continued on our way, passing along the edge of Chinatown and into an area called Downtown Crossing.  Just before the Common, Summer Street became Winter Street for some unknown reason other than whimsey.  Despite the wet weather, the Common was a popular spot for Bostonians on a Sunday.  We basically cut through the park on the way to the Public Gardens, pausing for a moment at the Central Burying Ground where William Billings is buried.  Billings is considered to be America's first choral composer although he wasn't inducted into the Songwriter's Hall of Fame until 1970.

The Public Gardens, created in 1837, were the first botanical public gardens in the United States.   Once a salt marsh, it now has many stately trees and flower gardens.  And of course, lots of ducks and swans.  The famous Swan Boats (see photo) have been plying the pond since 1877.  Inspired by the opera, Lohengrin by Wagner, they are flat-bottomed boats that appear to be powered by elegant swans.

We'd walked for about an hour in the rain so decided not to linger in the gardens.  We retraced our steps, crossing Tremont Street at Edgar Allan Poe square which was really just an intersection.  Poe, best known for his macabre stories and the poem The Raven, was born in Boston in 1809.

We had spotted a pub on Chauncy Street but as it was only 11:30 on a Sunday, it was closed.  We continued down Summer Street to check out what was available in the train station.  Here, we had our cheapest meal at Tavern in the Square.  We drank pints of Yeungling bee and enjoyed a hearty lunch: a Cuban sandwich (Glen) and Chicken Quesadillas (me).  The restaurant is a local success story that began as an attempt to create a sports bar that appealed to those who wanted a place with good food and friendly staff.  Despite being in the centre of the railway station, we enjoyed a quiet meal where we could watch golf if we wanted.  Twice the manager asked if we were enjoying ourselves.

Back at the hotel, we registered for the meeting and attended the first lecture, an interesting study in how E. coli  O157:H7 was discovered in lettuce in Britain.  Surprising to no one, mostly older women (probably dieting) showed signs of infection.  Afterwards we had a lovely buffet dinner of clams, mussels (from Prince Edward Island), chicken and biscuits, chowder, corn bread, and salads.  To drink was a beer from the local Harpoon Brewery called Octoberfest.  Founded a couple of years after the Samuel Adams brewery opened, three friends wanted to create beer such as they had had in Europe.  It was the beginning of the craft beer trend when they opened their Boston brewery in 1986. I could see the brewery from the window of our hotel room, that's how local it was.

"One if by land, Two if by Sea"

Most Americans reading the above title will know this blog is about Boston.  We visited this city to present a bid for VTEC 2018 at the VTEC 2015 meeting.  I say 'we' because I helped Glen with some ideas he proposed to the international committee.  Unfortunately, we lost the bid to Florence, Italy so enjoying the city helped deal with our disappointment.

Boston was never on my 'bucket list' of must-see places.  I figured it was another large American city with little interest to me except that it was the site of the Boston Marathon.  I was glad to be proven wrong.  In our wanderings, I learned a little history but mostly I soaked in the city's vibes and its friendly people.

Boston is the capital of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, a name harkening back to its being a colony of Britain.  Originally called Three Hills, Boston was renamed in 1630 by Puritan settlers after a town in Lincolnshire, England.   Fresh water drew them to the Charles River which runs through the city.  As the town grew, the hills were used to fill in the marshy areas so only their names exist today, like Beacon Hill.  

We arrived on Friday evening after an uneventful flight with a stopover in Toronto.  The Westin Boston Harbourfront was twenty minutes from the airport via a tunnel under the harbour.  There was an Irish pub (Irish immigrated to Boston during the Potato Famine) in the hotel that had good reviews so we tried it.  MJ O'Connors was quiet and the food was excellent.  We enjoyed grilled cod ( 2 inches/ 5cm thick) cooked to perfection and served with potatoes, spinach and lobster.  Glen declared the banana bread pudding 'to die for'.  The local beer was Samuel Adams Brewery, of course, so I indulged in their Brick Red Ale which came in a what I called a 'girlie' glass.  Glen had Smithwicks, his favourite Irish beer (they've been brewing beer since 1710), but switched to Brick Red after tasting mine.  

At one time, Boston was renown for its breweries but gradually they all folded.  The Boston Beer Company, founded in 1828, lasted until 1957.  But, the city saw a revival of craft brews begun in 1984 by Jim Koch who created Samuel Adams Boston Lager.  Harpoon Brewery (I'll write about this later) began a year later and now 72 breweries call Boston home.

Koch is a 6th generation brewer but he came to the business via Harvard University.  His grandfather had to give up their brewery in St. Louis, Missouri during Prohibition but kept the recipes.  Jim's father chose his favourite one for the new brewery.  Koch named the beer after one of America's founding fathers (patriots), Samuel Adams, whose business was making malt for beer (popular belief is he was a brewer, too but this isn't so). 

Saturday morning, we discovered how expensive it is to eat in Boston when we were told the breakfast buffet was $24 (not including tax) each (that's $30 CDN).  We ate at Starbucks which was across the lobby from the buffet and saved ourselves $30.

My plan for Saturday was to walk to Old North Church (see photo) to get two letterboxes hidden nearby.  My maps really didn't give me a good idea of distances so we headed out to explore as far as we could go.  Glen told me with his new orthotics, he could walk for miles which we did.  Boston has many nicknames: "The Cradle of Liberty" (because its role in the American Revolution), "Beantown" (refers to baked beans made with molasses, a favourite when the city traded with the West Indies), and "America's Walking City" (the city is compact).  We discovered that it was a great city for walking.  

The Westin is part of the Boston Convention Centre complex built in the Seaport District of South Boston.  Surrounding it are old warehouses that now house up-scale condos and lofts.  We crossed the Summer Street Bridge over Fort Point Channel and spotted The Boston Tea Party Museum in the middle of Congress Street Bridge.  We walked toward this as I had joked I would sprinkle tea into the harbour when I arrived.   We didn't go in but discovered the Harborwalk there.  Begun in 1984 (must have been an exciting year for Boston), it meanders along the waterfront using piers and access roads as its path, thus avoiding most of the car traffic.

We passed the New England Aquarium and took a detour through Columbus Park (Christopher of 1492 fame) with its Rose Kennedy rose garden.  All the wharfs had names like Rowes, India, Central, Long, Commercial, Lewis, Clark, Sargents, Union, Battery, and Constitution.  Some we explored, some we just looked at.  At Hanover Street, we headed inland to Old North Church passing a monument to Paul Revere.  That's when we realized the significance of the church.  Its steeple was where the lanterns flashed warnings to the patriots.

Built in 1723, Old North Church is still a viable congregation with the official name of Christ Church, an Episcopal (Anglican) denomination.  In 1775, Paul Revere asked the sexton, Robert Newman, and Captain John Pulling to signal, using lanterns, the patriots across the Charles River of the British Army's movements.  "One if by land, Two if by Sea" described the two different routes the enemy would take to move inland.  There were 30 riders who would deliver the message should Paul Revere be captured (he escaped Boston by rowing across the river before doing his famous ride).   His fellow patriot, William Dawes, also rode (via Boston Neck) to warn Samuel Adams and John Hancock they were in danger.  The poem, Paul Revere's Ride by Henry W. Longfellow commemorates this event.

A feature of the church that appealed to Glen were the pew boxes, each sporting a brass plate informing us who had owned them.  Apparently each family decorated their own box and the closer to the altar, the wealthier the family.  Glen remarked that his mom would have loved the assigned seating as she didn't like others sitting in 'their' pew.

The letterbox we sought was close to the Copp's Hill Burying Ground.  If you've read my past blogs, you know I have an affinity for graveyards.  So I was thrilled to explore this one before finding the box.  Some of the graves were so eroded, all writing had been washed from their surface.  Founded in 1659, it was the city's second graveyard and is the final resting place of Robert Newman, the sexton.

It was noon (we'd been walking for 2 hours) when we left the church so we headed back to the harbour front where we'd spotted a restaurant we thought we'd enjoy.  We followed part of the Freedom Trail (red brick path in the sidewalk) past Paul Revere's house.  Built in 1680, it's the oldest house in the city of Boston and I almost walked passed it.  I did notice it had a hitching post which I thought unusual but it was only when a tour guide said it was Paul's house, I realized its significance.

By the time we reached Joe's American Bar and Grill, we were hot, hungry, thirsty, and tired of walking.  The wait for their huge patio on the wharf was 15 minutes but they seated us inside right away.  First up was beer, of course.  We ordered two pints of Yeugling Lager.  Established in 1829, it is the oldest, working brewery in America (see my blog entry, Golfing in Florida where I explore the history of this beer.)  Glen enjoyed an ahi tuna burger whereas I had a blackened fish sandwich.  

We returned to the hotel via Congress Street  which lead us through a highway system with no access to our hotel.  Finally, I spotted a bridge that, according to our maps, lead to the convention centre.  It had an interesting statue to Polish Partisans of World War II.  

We took it easy for the rest of the afternoon and walked no further than MJ O'Connor pub for supper.  I had a velvety clam chowder and an appetizer pizza.  Glen had meatloaf with mashed potatoes.  When my pizza came it was the size of a dinner plate--an entrée in Canada.  

Fun with Family

Due to work obligations, we couldn't leave Calgary until the afternoon of July 7th.  We headed to Sicamous, about halfway to Victoria to stay at the Best Western and eat at Joe Schmuck's Roadhouse.  It was 35ºC but their patio was shaded and an artificial breeze generator kept us cool.  Most shunned the heat so we ate alone.  Schmuck's deep fried dill pickles are great and so is their pizza.  Glen also indulged in a sumptuous blueberry cheesecake.

The next day we drove to Tswwasswen to catch the ferry arriving in the condo at supper time.  After unpacking the cooler, we headed to Christie's.  It's a tradition!  We drank Philips Blue Buck, and shared some wings.  I ordered the Gyoza while Glen had fish and chips.  Although an Asian dish, gyoza never comes with chopsticks so I've started carrying disposable chopsticks in my purse.  They came in handy as it seemed weird eating dumplings with a fork.

The next day was a flurry of activity as we prepared the condo for our guests.  Geoff, Melissa, Elijah and Miles were in Seattle and would arrive that evening via the Victoria Clipper.  They had a great time visiting the sites in Seattle but Elijah wasn't well.  It was good they could come to a home rather than another hotel room.  But first we had supper at the Flying Otter.  After a 45 minute wait, we were all very hungry (Elijah napped during this time).  Geoff, Glen, and I had the steak special (with shrimp) which was delicious and Melissa had fries and lettuce wraps.  Miles had a plain cheese pizza off the kid's menu.  Geoff and I drank Okanagan Springs Pale Ale while Glen had Hoyne Pilsner.

The next morning, Glen had to work so the rest of us walked to Gonzales Beach (see photo of Geoff and the boys).  The tide was on its way out leaving behind very smelly seaweed.  Miles called it the Stinky Beach and since its original name was Foul Bay, that seemed appropriate.  We then headed up Foul Bay Road, a street that winds through a wonderful old neighbourhood.

Glen met us in Oak Bay and we drove to the Marina Restaurant for lunch.  We thought we'd eat in the café but it was really just a coffee shop so went upstairs.  Glen said I was becoming his mother in wanting to eat in restaurants with tablecloths.  Not so, but it is a lovely place and the food is wonderful.  We were not the only ones casually dressed and when they pulled out a kid's menu I relaxed.

Elijah was feeling better and even tried the calamari I ordered to share (it's the best).  He had spaghetti while Miles had a burger.  Melissa enjoyed a cocktail called For Your Eyes Only while the rest of us had OK Pale Ale.  Geoff ate mussels, Melissa a burger, Glen enjoyed fishcakes while I had a delicious bento box.  Dessert finished the meal and I even indulged in a pavlova.  Glen's sundae was huge!  While waiting for dessert, Geoff tested the app he's creating.  It tells you the name of the surrounding mountains when you point your phone at them.  We couldn't see Mt Baker but we knew where it was.  Turns out the US Geological Survey database calls it Grant's Peak which is the highest peak of the mountain.  Who knew?

Saturday was fish day.  Geoff loves the Finest at Sea so we had to make a stop there for oysters, mussels and fish.  Due to their lack of seafood, we ended up with 5 dungeness crabs and a $95 salmon fillet.  The kids were playing in the playground with Melissa and Grampy but came with us as we checked out Fisherman's Wharf.  Glen has always wanted the boys to feed the seals so bought a plate of herring and they did just that.  Pretty exciting stuff!  I was happy The Fish Store had oysters so we bought some to round out our feast.

Next, we headed to the Hudson Market.  Housed in the old Hudson's Bay store on Douglas Street, this market is now home local artisans and food producers.  It's interesting as the Hudson's Bay Company promised Victoria a public market in 1860 but that never came to fruition.  Just inside the front doors is a huge Salt Spring Island Cheese boutique with tasting stations for cheese and jams.  We bought our favourite cheeses and ended up with a free jar of jam.  At the butcher, we got Melissa a steak as she doesn't eat fish (she made her famous gratin potatoes for us) then I spoke to a lady at Olive the Senses, an olive oil/balsamic vinegar boutique and learned Croatia doesn't export its olive oils (see Castles and Churches).

The kids are great walkers so we headed down to Bastion Square to see what the vendors there had to offer.  Miles bought a shell necklace with a cat's face hand-painted on it.  By this time, we all wanted lunch so headed back to the condo.

Sunday was a beach day, unfortunately, we awoke to fog.  That didn't matter as the kids just wanted to play in the sand.  So I watched them as Glen, Melissa and Geoff headed down the beach to find my letterbox.  Turns out it was gone.  It was the second one I'd lost that week which was kind of sad.  Melissa caught a jellyfish which was the highlight of our morning.

Monday we headed to Beacon Hill Park so Melissa could find one of my letterboxes.  Turns out it was also gone.  The petting zoo beckoned and we enjoyed seeing all the farm animals although the boys didn't want to pat the goats.  At the top of the hill, Melissa found a letterbox. The clues were horrible so it was good we were there to help.  The boys then enjoyed time at the Beacon Hill playground.

In the afternoon, Melissa and Geoff headed downtown to stay at a boutique hotel (Bedford Regency Hotel) and we had a sleep-over with the boys.  We took them to dine at The White Spot arriving just before the crowds did.  The boys ordered milkshakes which they drank rather quickly which meant when Miles' burger arrived in a pirate ship, he was not hungry.  It also had sauce which his grandparents didn't realize he didn't want.  Elijah had macaroni and cheese and they both had ice cream for dessert.  Glen had a burger (he swears they make the best burgers) and I had teriyaki chicken bowl.  Glen's dessert was a huge chocolate brownie.  The White Spot is a local chain that began 85 years ago when Nat Bailey began selling lunches to Vancouver tourists from his truck.  Granville Island Brewery brews the beer we like, called Nat Bailey Lager.

The next morning we were off to play at Blenkinsop Mini Golf and except for a bunch of camp kids who were out of control, we enjoyed the game.  Elijah told us it wasn't real mini golf as it didn't have a windmill.  What a funny kid!  Melissa and Geoff joined us for lunch. They had enjoyed dinner at the Bard and Banker and took our recommendation of the Shine Café for breakfast.  Geoff declared his to be the best eggs Benedict he'd ever tasted.

Wednesday we all headed to Sooke.  Melissa wanted to kayak and everyone else wanted to have fun on the Whiffen Spit (see Sooke, Puke & Spit).  A horrid cold had me in its grip otherwise I'd have gone off with Melissa.  As it turned out, the wind was up so she would need a guide (he was with another group) and they only rented two-seater kayaks.  Next time!  It was low tide at the Spit so we had a great time exploring all the tidal pools.  There were thousands of baby crabs and sea anemones. Geoff treated us to lunch at the Stickleback Eatery where we sat on their lovely patio.  Elijah and wasps don't see eye-to-eye (no one likes wasps) and so he spent much of lunch trying to avoid them.

The next day, Melissa was up early to go to Bubby Rose's Bakery for their famous cinnamon buns.  They had discovered this place on their last trip and wanted us to enjoy it as well.  What an incredible breakfast!!  We then headed to the harbour and did a brief tour of the BC Legislature grounds before the gang boarded the Clipper to begin their the journey home.  The condo seemed awfully quiet when we got home.  As the washing machine cleaned sheets and towels, I napped hoping I would rid myself of the sniffles.

Weekend in the Rockies

I didn't think I'd post about our weekend in Banff as it was work-related and I'd posted about the mountains before (see Camping, Golfing, and Letterboxing).  However, we did a few things outside our usual 'box' so I felt it was worth a blog.

In the spring, Glen decided to bid on hosting an international conference in 2018 and so contacted the Banff Centre.  Jodi was very helpful in making suggestions and facilitating Glen's requirements.  The Centre proposed we visit the site.  Well, we'd been many times and so didn't need to check out rooms, etc.  However, we were in town the weekend they were hosting a 'get-to-know-us' session so decided to go.

We had a blast.  The people we met who worked at the centre were fantastic and it was so nice to meet Jodi.  Such a sweet girl!  We also met with the folks at Discover Banff Tours and from MountView BBQ.

Glen and I had already brainstormed what we felt would showcase Western Culture to the conference but we had no idea what the Banff Centre could arrange.  Our weekend proved to be enlightening giving us some great ideas (and the people who could implement them).

When we checked into our room, we were given a selfie stick (a telescoping uni-pod used to take selfie phone photos).  Glen thought it was a silly idea but soon became a convert (see photo).  It was a lot of fun to use and broke the ice on many occasions.  It's surprising the number of things a selfie stick can become.

The opening reception was in the Walter Phillips Gallery.  We'd passed the gallery door many times but had never entered.  We enjoyed fantastic hors d'oeuvres and an interesting exhibit called Séance Fiction.  We also met two colleagues of Glen's who had run conferences at the centre before.  After chatting with our hosts, we boarded buses which would take us to the Tunnel Mountain sight of the barbecue.

Two large, yurt-like, 'donut' tents enclose huge fires surrounded by picnic tables.  Food is served buffet style with Alberta beef the featured dish.  Beer is cooled in ice packed in aluminum water troughs.  A duo played old and modern western/bluegrass tunes (they even did a Rolling Stones song) and taught us several line dances.  We enjoyed true Western hospitality!  The venue is run by Brewster Travel -- a company begun by two brothers in 1892 to bring tourists into the the Rocky Mountains.

After breakfast the next day, we learned more about ourselves and the workings of the professional development and leadership program at the Centre.  Normally, I hate introducing myself to a group.  What do I say that will mean anything to anyone?  Banff Centre used photographs to help us say something about ourselves other than our job descriptions.  It was an innovative technique.  We then toured the facilities seeing the meeting rooms as well as the costume room which is normally off limits to the public.  We learned that if you see the opera, Marriage of Figaro anywhere in North America, the costumes were created at the Banff Centre.

We then walked through grounds to the artist colony which is another area the public can't enter.  I had passed its inviting path before so was glad to have my curiosity satisfied.  We saw the 'boat' house where Yann Martel wrote Life of Pi.  Each house in the colony was designed for a specific type of artist so if you are a composer, there is a special place with a piano where you can create your masterpieces.

Lunch was at the top of a triple black diamond ski hill.  Just saying, I'm glad I didn't have to ski down.  We took the chair lift up Mt. Norquay to Cliffhouse Bistro (built in the 1950s).  Glen insisted on using his selfie stick while we rode the lift.  He and I have had some nasty experiences on lifts before.  I've lost skis (he stepped on them as we boarded) and he's lost a ski pole so I figured both his new stick and his phone would soon be gone.  I don't like heights so it was a nervous 10 minute ride.  The views from the top were spectacular!  The lunch was a cheese/meat/cracker/bread platter with a self-serve salad bar.  Bar service was slow but we were a big group.  There are climbing routes starting from the restaurant so if you wish for something more adventuresome, check it out here.

Afternoon activities included horseback riding or visiting the Cave and Basin.  We had seen the cave before and I hadn't been on a horse in 50 years so we opted to go to the stables.  Due to a scheduling mix-up, the folks at Warner Stables told us we'd have to go out as two successive groups and might miss our evening banquet.  About half decided to return to the hotel, Glen included.  My horse was a gelding called Crow, named for a native tribe.  As we walked the trail, I came to think of him as a teenager who tried to get away with anything he could.  I was quite comfortable controlling him so we got along.  The only issue came when the horse in front of us spooked.  He was ridden by an experienced rider and somehow, she controlled him while I easily got Crow back in line.  Not sure how I did that but perhaps the horse-riding gods smiled on me.   We completed the Bow River tour in an hour exploring a part of Banff I'd never seen before.  It was fun!

I got back in time to shower off the horsey smell then it was time to gather for the banquet.  It was in an upper conference room and served a choice of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres.  All delicious.  The room had a camping decor that included a tent and fake campfire (where you could take selfies).  The evening's entertainment was the famous Canadian band, Blue Rodeo who often stop in Banff when they tour.  Formed in 1984, the band has 11 Juno awards and a star in the Canadian Walk of Fame.  Their music is classified as country rock so they appeal to a wide audience.  The conference room balcony overlooked the stage so we had a premier viewing area.  After the show, we gravitated to the MacLab Bistro for drinks.

Breakfast was served in the professional centre lobby and billed as 'to go'.  We ate ours in our room and discovered it could divide easily into breakfast and lunch.  We headed home to get ready for our trip to Victoria.