Okay, I know I used a similar title in the last post but it is fitting to use it again. Back in 2004, when we visited the Big Island for a conference, Glen wanted to see the telescopes on the top of the dormant volcano, Maunakea. The tour was on his birthday so it was a great gift for give him. It was pouring rain at our resort, the Hilton Waikoloa Village, but the rain was warm and we figured if we didn't see the views from the mountain (13, 803 ft or 4207.3 m), we'd at least have fun learning astronomy from the scientist stationed at the telescopes. That was not to be as rain at sea level translates to snow on the mountain peak making the road impassable. Who knew a Hawaiian tour could be canceled because of snow?
So when we planned this cruise, we immediately signed up for the tour of the summit of Maunakea. Glen was excited to finally see the telescope but on our last day at sea before reaching Hawaii, we received a note saying the tour would not involve the telescopes. Glen was devastated. Apparently, some native Hawaiians protesting the building of the third telescope blocked the road to the summit. They felt since it is a sacred place, the home of the snow goddess, Pol'ahu, and a burial site for their chiefs, their wishes should be considered. Tour buses would not cross their barricades.
We had the option to stay on a modified version of the tour or choose something else. We decided to stay with the original plan. It was a small group who headed out. In fact, except for the tour of Pearl Harbour, we chose tours with few people. On this bus, was a couple from Alberta so we hung out with them.
Our port of call was Hilo, the oldest port in the state. The Big or Orchid Island is believed to be the first one settled by the Marquesas (French Polynesia) in 700 A.D.. Hilo is America's wettest city with over 120 inches annually. The locals say it rains every day.
It was misty when we left the boat and arrived at our first stop, the Queen Lili'uokalani Gardens (you might be interested to know there are only 12 letters in the Hawaiian alphabet). The 24 acre park of Japanese gardens was created on land donated by the last queen of Hawaii and is named after her. Not only are they beautiful (see above photo) but they do serve as a buffer zone between the town and the sea should a tsunami hit.
After a long drive through Hilo suburbs and into the east coast rainforest, we came to Akaka Falls. Here we did a half-mile walk through the jungle to view the 442 foot cascade. If we had wished, there was a short cut to the falls but Glen felt he could handle the longer walk. All his walks on the promenade deck paid off!
Gradually we drove from the rainforest up into the range lands of the island (our guide played a movie on volcanoes). Here, cattle roam as well as wild sheep and pigs. Waimea cowboys are called paniolo and were originally Spanish cowboys from California and Mexico brought to the islands to herd the cattle. Grasslands blanket the flanks of Maunakea. We stopped in small town and had a picnic lunch in front of the local mall. Inside was a Dairy Queen so a few of us enjoyed some ice cream--it was supposed to be better than Dairy Queen ice cream in Canada. I really didn't taste any difference.
After passing the native Hawaiian protestors on the road to the telescopes (shrouded in cloud so we couldn't see them), we came to a turnout where we walked on stark lava fields. Our guide told us about the Ohia Lehua tree which is called the first and last tree of the lava. Their deep roots mean that most lava flows don't kill them and they are quite heat-resistant. When the lava is cold, new growth pushes through. Ferns are another first plant of the lava fields and we saw these eking out an existence.
The Ohia Lehua tree has a bright red or yellow blossoms called the Lehua. Apparently, Ohia was a handsome warrior chief on the island who loved a beautiful woman, Lehua. Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes and fire, felt Ohia would make a good husband for her so asked him to give up his wife. Ohia refused. It doesn't pay to offend the gods as Pele turned Ohia into a tree. Lehua was devastated and the other gods took pity on her. They changed her into a flower and placed her on the Ohia tree. If one picks the flower, the skies rain down the tears of the lovers.
The last stop on our tour was Rainbow Falls. It spills over a lava field falling 80 feet in front of a dark lava tube. Usually rainbows form over the pool, hence the named best seen in the early morning. Legend has it the goddess of the moon lives there. There was a short walk to the top of the falls but Glen and I were pretty tired by this time so chatted with our guide.
We returned to the ship and set sail. Next stop Vancouver!
See our Big Island photos here.
Comments for this post
