The Hawaiian Experience

Aren't these girls beautiful?  They had sweet personalities as well and were very patient teaching the spouses how to wrap a lava-lava (sarong) and do a hula dance.  Sheilah promised that as soon as we learned to tie the lava-lava properly, we'd magically have bodies like their's.  I guess I failed as I still have my old one.

Both girls were hula dancers but the one on the right taught us how to dance.  I was in the front row and at one point, caused her to giggle.  Obviously, the dancing genes are not dominant in me.  Since the demonstration was on the Hyatt's lawn, we must have given the other guests a show to remember.

We had a lot of laughs and the token male, who did a great job of tying his lava-lava, told me how in India, he had learned several ways to tie a man's sarong-like wrap.  He was learning the technique so he could teach his wife.

It was so hot on the lawn that I didn't linger.  I returned to our room to await Glen and enjoyed a beer on our lanai (balcony).  Again we returned to Whalers Village for lunch but this time at Cane & Taro.  It is on the upper deck of the village and catches the cool sea breezes.  That's the beauty of dining in Hawaii, most days you eat outside without air conditioning (or central heating).  We both indulged in a salad, mine Greek with a Hawaiian flare (ahi tuna) and Glen's was crab and avocado.

Upon our return to the Hyatt, I suggested we use the pool.  We had yet to do so.  We found two chairs which, as it turns out, were in the middle of a group of conferees.  Glen wasn't sure he wanted to swim so I left him sitting on a chair.  I had a brief paddle before bumping into my friend Sue, from Florida.  She invited me (and Glen) to go snorkeling with her husband, Henry, the next morning.

Glen eventually did swim then we headed back to our room to dress for the luau.  The Drums of the Pacific show would be the conference's banquet dinner.  As we entered the Hyatt's Sunset Terrace, we received leis and a Mai Tai cocktail.  We watched an incredible show which included resurrecting a pig from the cooking pit, hula and fire-dancing, and singing, then indulged in a sumptuous feast.  I preferred the Huli Huli chicken to the Kalua Pork but there was also mahi mahi.  I loved the sweet Maui onions served in wedges and had them for dessert while Glen indulged in bread pudding.  We ended the evening with a couple of beers on our lanai.

Hanakao'o Cemetery

You knew I'd eventually write about a visit to a cemetery.  I seem to find them on my travels and this trip to Maui was no different.  I spotted the tiny red-earth graveyard from the highway on our first bus ride.  Hanakano'o Cemetery was such a stark contrast between the lushness of the Hyatt Resort, the ocean waves, and its tiny, dry dustiness.

Friday morning, the spouses were to meet and walk to Whalers Village.  I felt I had time to see this cemetery, walk back along the beach, and meet up with the group.  This didn't happen as when I reached the mustering point, no one was there.  It didn't matter as I knew the way and figured I'd bump into them.  I eventually did meet up with Jennifer but we separated again while I took some photographs.

I knew approximately where the cemetery was so walked out the Lahaina entrance of the hotel and crossed the parking lot.  The dirt road beyond was gated but only to vehicles so I wandered along the dusty road bordering the graves.  One can learn much about a people by their graves and I soon discovered this was a Japanese cemetery with strong Hawaiian roots.  Most of the graves had weather leis or tiny desiccated flowers in rough clay vessels.  Some had markers that looked to be hewn from the underlying soil while others were simply delineated by volcanic stones.

Despite nearby construction, it was a peaceful place but quickly explored due to its small size.  I then crossed the road and came to Hanakao'o Beach.  Here, seaweed-draped rocks tempted me to check for sea turtles but I didn't want to miss meeting the spouses so turned back.  When I realized they had left without me, I returned to the beach.

There is nothing like an early morning stroll along the seaside even if your sneakers 'leak' but carrying the extra sand was good exercise so I kept slogging through the dunes.

I wasn't alone as others snorkeled, swam, or surfed the waves.  I came across a group learning to fish and a gaggle of tiny and some kids making stand castles.  In one area protected by vegetation, tiny, translucent crabs scuttled across the sand and disappeared into their holes.  There were lots of beach debris to photograph as well as flowers, plants, and boats.  I even spent a few minutes watching the cliff divers plunge into the ocean near the Sheraton Hotel before I left to explore Whalers Village.

Later, Glen and I returned to the Hula Grill for lunch where I had ahi tuna sashimi served with an orchid and gado gado salad while Glen ate their special, a grilled mahi mahi sandwich.  We washed it down with Bikini Blonde.  The Hula Grill has live entertainment and this day, the soloist played an electric ukulele.  During one song, a woman did a hula dance for us.

Using orchids as a garnish was new to me, although I had seen them decorating fruity alcoholic beverages.  It was too beautiful to eat but I have since learned they are a good source of Vitamin C and fibre and are edible.

We had strict instructions to meet for the sunset cruise at 4:00 sharp as the sun would not wait.  This sounds funny but in the past some have complained that the sun set too quickly.  Again, we had a long bus ride to begin our evening (always a good time for networking).  We boarded the Pride of Maui in Maalaea harbour next to the Aquarium.  After a brief safety chat, we left the harbour.  Just as the stern passed the breakwater, the bartender announced the bars were open.  On the upper deck, they served beer and wine,  whereas downstairs was the cocktail bar.  But, who could drink beer when there were whales to be photographed?

The boat encountered several comp pods so we were treated to a wonderful show of flippers and fins.  And no, you don't get tired of watching them and you always hope for a better photo.  However, I might have given up beer for whale-watching but I didn't give up eating.  Dinner was a buffet set up on the lower deck serving hot and cold choices as well as vegetarian and meat-lovers dishes.  The chicken was delicious and the ribs to die for.  I later learned the chef steamed them in pineapple juice for 3 hours and added horseradish to her BBQ sauce.  Something to try as I seek to find the perfect rib recipe.

During supper, the soloist sang happy birthday to Glen and Jim who were celebrating their birthdays during the conference.  Our friends from Québec sang 'Bonne F ete' while Glen stood waiting for his supper.

The sunset (remember that was the reason for this cruise) was beautiful although there weren't enough clouds to make it awesome and the whales had vanished.

Lahaina

Thursday, the working sessions of the conference began so the chairs spent the morning in a meeting room while their spouses (there was a token male) went to Lahaina to shop and admire the banyan tree.  Glen told me I must take pictures as the tree was famous.  I'd never heard of it before but it certainly was impressive.

After a brief tour of the Lahaina Courthouse which housed relics of the whaling era, I left to explore the square surrounding it.

Lahaina was the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii (1820-1845) before it moved to Honolulu.  Near the courthouse are the tumbledown ruins of King Kamehameha's palace. The name Lahaina means 'cruel sun' as the area receives only 13 inches of rainfall per year.

In the early 1800's, missionaries were drawn to Lahaina as were the whalers who followed the humpbacks along their migration route.  This lead to conflict between the two groups.  By opening schools and building a jail, the missionaries tamed the rough town.  In 1873, the sheriff, William Owen Smith, planted a banyan tree to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Lahaina's first Christian mission.

After photographing the ruins, I returned to the courthouse.  There I found my good friend, Jennifer, admiring the local art now showcased in the jail.  We both concluded the pieces were above our price range so left to check out the banyan tree.  What appears to be a woods is a fifty foot tree with more than ten anchors (smaller trunks) that support it as its spreads over the square.  It came to Maui from India as an 8 foot sapling and is now the third largest banyan in the world (after one in India and Florida).

Passing beneath its branches, we came to Front Street, the main thoroughfare in Lahaina.  Once a hive of pubs and whaling outposts, it is now lined with shops and restaurants.  Sheilah told us to see the Peter Lik gallery as it had some amazing photographs.  It didn't disappoint and oh, to be wealthy enough to own one of his works.  The one that caught my eye was called Endless Summer, a photo of the Scripps Pier in La Jolla, California.

I guess I still had visions of Lik's photography in my head for when we crossed Front Street to see the beach, I didn't see a car and stepped in front of it.  Fortunately, it was going slowly but Jennifer said the driver looked shaken after he'd slammed on the brakes.  I was shaken, too.

The town has decorated it sidewalks and corners with wooden sculptures reminiscent of the figureheads on the whaling ships.  I had fun photographing these as we made our way to Hilo Hattie where Jennifer wanted to buy something for her great nephews and nieces.  Our bus driver said it had the best Hawaiian shirts in town so I thought I might see something for Glen.  Turned out I found something for myself as well as buying a few souvenirs.

By this time, the bus was due and we were told it wouldn't wait as some in our group had chosen to stay in town for the afternoon.  Jennifer and I had other plans.  She and her husband, Neil, had rented a car and wanted us to join them for lunch at The Plantation House to celebrate Glen's birthday.  Situated on the Kapalua Resort, it offers views of the Plantation Golf Course (a PGA Tour course) and the ocean beyond.  A truly lovely spot and the food was delicious.  We had the fish special which was excellent while Jennifer enjoyed a pasta creation.  Glen indulged in a chocolate dessert that was huge.

We returned to our rooms to relax because our next event began at 6:00.  We were to meet Sheilah in the Hyatt lobby and walk to Cirque Polynesia with the rest of the conferees.  As we settled down, Sheilah brought us popcorn as thanks for holding a seat for her (it turned out to be our supper).  The show began with 'Pepe the Clown' who was brilliant and then moved into other traditional circus acts--contortionist, balancing acts, trapeze, hula hoops, aerial acrobats (silks), singing, and hula dancing.  The show culminated with a performance on the 'Wheel of Death'.  The bright lights and excellent drumming enhanced the drama but it was the stars above that stole the show.  Orion hung overhead and we could see all this constellation's stars.  The Milky Way was like wispy gauze draped behind the stage.  What a magical evening!

Pontoon Boat Snorkeling

Since the conference does not begin until the evening, there is always a tour during the day.  It is optional and not covered under the umbrella of the registration fees but is usually well worth doing.  This year, it was a snorkeling adventure along the coast of Maui.

When I signed us up, I neglected to tell Glen it was an early morning start.  When we received our instructions, not only were we to be on the bus by 6:15 am, there would be no coffee served with our breakfast.  Still suffering from the affects of jet lag, we stumbled out of bed at 5:30 and I got the room's coffee maker going.  It made 2 cups but not in a carafe so Glen had the full cup while mine was half full.  I gagged as I took my pills.  Not a great way to begin the day.

A 45 minute bus ride took us to the Kihei Maui boat ramp where we met Blue Water Rafting's two pontoon boats.  Our captain, Dante, and his mate, Eli, helped us board after making sure no one had back or neck injuries, recent surgeries, or were pregnant.  As we exited the harbour, we found out why as Dante gunned the raft through a 10 foot wave.  Beyond, the sea was calm but we had a long way to go and it was at full throttle.  If you've ever sat on the pontoons of a bouncing boat, you'll know it isn't the most comfortable seat in the world.  We also had to hold onto ropes for fear of falling off.  It was a wild ride.  The doughnut tricks Dante did, didn't help those who were not seaworthy.

Dante thought we'd see humpback whales and there they were cresting the surface on the horizon.  Our aches and pains were forgotten.  As the creatures sounded (deep dive), Dante stopped the boat and put a hydrophone into the water.  We could hear the whales calling to each other.  It was incredibly magical.

Then we were off again passing the towns of Wailea and Makena as we made our way down the Kanaio Coast, a remote arid area of Maui where only a few live on the slopes of Mt. Haleakala (10,000 feet).  This volcano erupts every 200 years or so.  The last such event had lava exploding from a side vent and pouring into the sea.  Dante took us close to see the  unique types of rock formed by this.   A'a lava is a crusty, jagged formation which sits upon pahoehoe (pa-hoy-hoy) or smooth lava.  Beneath these is a box-like layer called columnar basalt (see above photo).  The result is an incredible coastline of caves, grottos, and lava arches.  Since the sea was calm (according to Dante), we explored these formations very closely.

On our way to La Perouse Bay, named for the French explorer, Jean-François de Galaup, Compte de La Pérouse, the first European to discover Maui (1786), a 'comp pod' of whales surfaced nearby.  These pods are a group of 3 to 4 whales who swim together.  One is female, the others are males vying for her attention.  They battle each other to become her mate so surface many times, sometimes slapping their tales, sometimes breaching.  We saw it all.  The female also swam on her back waving her pectoral fins in a 'come hither' signal that encouraged her suitors.  It was amazing to watch and very hard to photograph.

By this time (9:30 am), I was starving as were the others in our group.  Our friends, Tim, Henry, Sue, Jennifer, and Neil were also on our boat.  As we approached the reef where we'd snorkel, Dante asked if we wanted to eat first or swim.  Everyone yelled 'eat'.  He had huge Costco muffins and juice.  I choked one down barely tasting it but knowing I needed something in my stomach.  It sat like a lump while we tossed upon the sea.  I didn't get seasick but others weren't so well off.  Two doped themselves with dramamine but a young teen, who didn't realize he'd suffer, ended up very ill.

Glen did his best Jacques Cousteau entry into the cool Maui waters impressing Dante as he fitted me with special prescription goggles.  We have our own goggles but always rent fins.  Little did I know the difference I'd experience when I could actually see the fish and sea urchins.  The reefs below were clear and teeming with several species of fish.  I saw red and black sea urchins, orange spine unicorn fish, wrasses, triggerfish, needlefish, and bright yellow tangs.  One of our group, another Canadian who now lives in the US, was an experienced diver and coaxed an octopus from its hole.  It put on a light show that must have been spectacular.

Back on board, we continued to hug the coastline exploring the lava formations.  Dante pointed out many natural a'a sculptures that were reminiscent of cartoon characters, animals, and people's faces.  We actually reached places he normally couldn't go as the seas were not rough.  We laughed because they seemed awfully rough to us.  I now know why the company was concerned with back or neck injuries as I suffered from a very sore bottom for several days.

Our next stop was the famous Molokini Crater.  Similar to Santorini, Greece, this caldera was formed during a volcanic eruption.  It is one of the top 10 dives spots in the world but is often very crowded.  We did what is called drift snorkeling where us and our boat drifted over the reef in the protected, 'curl' of the crater.  Again we saw lots of fish but by this time my camera was dead so I didn't even attempt any photographs.  Some saw reef sharks but I pretty much saw what I had seen the first time.  I actually cut my dive short as I had goosebumps on my goosebumps, the water was that cold.

Lunch was a make-your-own sandwich with sliced meats, tomatoes, lettuce and mayo on an oversized bun.  This time I tasted every morsel.

After eating, we moved to another part of the crater reef.  Here there was a drop-off of 300 feet.  Only a few made the dive, Glen included and he raved about the beauty of the reef then the blackness of the abyss.  He said it was like 'Finding Nemo'.  I was still cold and decided not to dive but am a little sorry I didn't.

We flew back to the boat ramp only stopping to watch another comp pod in action.  One male breached very close to the boat.  It was pretty exciting.

We got back to the hotel around 2:30.  This is when we discovered that the little souvenir shop in the hotel had beer.  We stored these in our fridge and enjoyed a drink on our tiny balcony overlooking the 17th hole of the nearby golf course.  The tropical birds squawking in the palm trees was almost surreal.

After showering, we had a lovely buffet supper on the beach while networking with the rest of the conferees.  No one was surprised when the snorkelers all headed to bed early.

Maui before the Meeting

The AMSMIC conference always begins with a tour so attendees can network which is important to this group of university chairs. However, our networking began with 'the help' when we arrived in Maui, Hawaii.

After an uneventful trip across the Pacific Ocean, we landed in Kahului Airport.  We had left Calgary early on a snowy, frigid morning (-29ºC/-20ºF) and after almost 8 hours in the plane, landed in paradise (+29ºC/84ºF).  As we awaited our bags, our friend, Tim, who had just arrived from California, met us.  He works with the woman organizing the meeting, Sheilah of Amazing Occasions.  Sheilah had rented a car so picked us up at the airport.  We had a great time catching up as we drove the scenic highway to our hotel, the Hyatt Regency on the Kaanapali Beach (about 45 minutes).  We spotted several whales spouting and cattle egrets strutting in the roadside vegetation.  The volcanic mountains rising up from the sea were red rock and desert-dry.

Kaanapali Beach, although lined with resorts and condominiums, is open to anyone wishing to use it.  The Hyatt resides at one end, the Sheraton, at the other and about halfway in between are the Westin and Marriott.  A tiny shopping centre, Whalers Village, with three restaurants (and a food court) is nestled among several condominium towers.

It was around 1pm when we checked in so agreed to meet Tim and Sheilah poolside for lunch.  We quickly stripped off our traveling clothes, exchanging them for shorts and loose fitting shirts.  We then walked about 20 minutes to dine in Tim's favourite place, the Hula Grill at Whalers Village.  Together, we shared chips and salsa while Glen had Big Swell IPA and I drank Barefoot Brew, a specialty of the house.  We then ate a goat cheese pizza (Glen and me), and Caesar salad (Tim).  Sheilah left just before 4 in order to man the conference desk at the hotel.

After enjoying the view of the beach and a few more beers, we thought we'd return to our rooms and relax.  But that was not to be for, as we walked back, we met up with our good friends from Florida, George and Martha (yes, they know the connection with America's first president).  They were ready for supper and wanted to try Leilani's across from the Hula Grill.  Glen stayed with his Big Swell IPA but I switched to Kona Brewery's Lavaman Red.  I also had a Caprese salad of tomatoes, beets, and mozzarella cheese that was as tasty as it sounds.

After dinner, we all returned to the Hyatt for drinks on the patio.  I enjoyed a Kahlua while Glen had more Big Swell.  Exhausted, we tumbled into bed at 9:30 knowing it was an early rise the next day.

New Years in Victoria

I thought I had written all there was to write about Victoria.  But, I was wrong.  The city is a gem with many different facets to explore.

We arrived two weeks ago after having spent a lovely Christmas in Calgary with Meg and Mike.  They slept over both Christmas Eve and Night, leaving Boxing Day.  We had tickets to see Broadway Across Canada's Beauty and the Beast so didn't leave Calgary until December 28th.  The show was fantastic so well worth the delay.

We arrived late Wednesday so rushed out to get groceries then walked to Christie's for supper.  We sat out in their covered patio listening to the rain beating down on its canvas.  It was like camping!  We enjoyed a small plate of Louisiana wings then I had a tasty salmon filet sandwich while Glen enjoyed their excellent fish and chips.

We hit the driving range the next to warm up for golf.  We have ancient clubs in Victoria so we must get used to them each time we're forced to use them (I do not drag our 'good' clubs to the condo unless we're driving). We golfed three times at The Ridge, a par 3 course that challenges all who attempt it.  I averaged 2 pars each session with 3 on my birthday while Glen went from no pars to two on January 5th so was happy he'd improved.

We also did some letterboxing, a hobby that appeals to us both.  I've mentioned it before as a type of treasure hunt where the prize is a hand-carved stamp which you record in your logbook then leave for the next person to discover.  Glen loves the hunt while I do the stamping and recording.  It works out as a nice way to explore places where you'd not likely go.  Like Ogden Point.

We've passed this Victoria landmark numerous times as we drive along Dallas Road (usually with a bag of seafood bought at Finest at Sea).  There is a restaurant (Geoff and Melissa sampled their fare and declare it good) and dive shop on the wharf but we were headed for the breakwater.  This 10 foot wide (3 meters) by 10 foot high slab of concrete juts out into the mouth of Victoria's harbour and protects the wharf.  Large cruise ships dock here.  The breakwater is a precarious walk on a good day but when the seas are high, it's dangerous.  We had chosen a day without rain and a calm sea.  The letterbox was hidden at the end of the breakwater but to get it would have meant hanging over its steep edge.  Not something I was willing to attempt.  I later learned the two people before us to make the attempt didn't find it either.  The day wasn't lost as we found another box left by someone visiting from Oregon (letterboxing is big in the States).

Another facet we found because of letterboxing was Mt. Douglas Park.  On our way to golf, we always pass through this park and remark how we should check it out 'one day'.  After 8 years, that day was now.  The box, hidden in the rainforest on the way up to the Mt. Douglas (700 feet) viewpoint, was our excuse to explore.  I had jotted down the clues but in my haste had omitted what turned out to be pivotal information.  On our first attempt, we came close but didn't find the box.  We did climb the 'mountain' and had a wonderful view of Victoria seeing as far as the harbour and as close as our summer golf course, Mt. Douglas.  It also offered an excellent view of Cordova Bay.

Our second attempt was to happen after playing a round of golf at The Ridge.  This was not to be for as we drove through the park, the water pump in the van seized causing the serpentine belt to melt then break.  We called BCAA and within 20 minutes were towed to our regular service centre.  It turns out our driver was a former Edmontonian who attended Vic Comp.  He was taking a course in web design but really wanted to be a graphic novel artist.

Our breakdown occurred on the penultimate day of our holidays and even though the service centre felt they'd have it fixed that day, we worried the infamous 'island time' would mean canceling our flight back to Calgary.  To take our minds off this, we played World of Warcraft.  I had given Glen an upgrade for Christmas as his avatar had reached the highest level in the original game.   That afternoon, we marched through the Dark Portal into Outland and at the same time joined a guild, Noble Gases, begun by a friend of ours.  A welcomed call from the service centre ended our play and we picked up the van just as the centre closed.

Our third attempt of the Mt. Douglas Park letterbox happened the following day.  After reading the actual clues, Glen was determined to find the box.  We found the trails easily enough and the box was where it was supposed to be.  It was called 'Serpent in a Trap' but when we went to remove the box, the 'serpent' collapsed.  After 8 years, the log had rotted through.  I duly recorded the stamp and we re-hid the box.

Another facet of Victoria life is socializing.  We have very good neighbours, Ray and Cynthia, so 'first footed' (Hogmanay) with them, bringing a plate of home-baked goodies.  We toasted the new year with hopes it would be less tumultuous than 2011.  On January 2nd, we went out with our friends, Diane and Tony, and had a great dinner at Smuggler's Cove.  Glen had their steak & kidney pie, Diane and Tony had lamb souvlaki, and I had a pesto halibut wrap which was delicious.

On the 4th, we headed 'up island' to Chemainus, a quaint little town famous for the murals painted on the walls of the downtown buildings.  We were to meet friends who drove down from Qualicum Beach.  Glen has known Murray for over 25 years but I'd only met him once and never his wife, Yvonne.  We had a delightful lunch at Willow Street Cafe.  Originally a masonic hall and then a bank, the breakfast/lunch cafe, in its present form, began in 2006.  Located in the centre of town, it was an ideal meeting place.  Glen had a chicken & Swiss sandwich with a tossed salad while I had the Willow Street Special of sliced turkey (real turkey breast), provolone cheese, and roasted peppers.  I also sampled one of three homemade soups, tomato parmesan which was excellent.  Yvonne shared my taste in sandwiches but had black bean soup which she proclaimed tasty.  We washed it down with Spyhopper, my favourite Vancouver Island Brewery beer.

For my birthday, we went to the Marina Restaurant in Oak Bay and yes, we've been there before but for a celebratory dinner, you can't beat it.  I turned 60 so it was a night to celebrate and I do love watching the sailboats bobbing beside the marinas.  We began with oysters and beer, then I had a delicious farm-raised chicken breast while Glen had beef tenderloin.  He ordered creme brulee for dessert while I had Monte Cristo coffee.  Our waitress who knew it was my birthday brought me a complimentary plate of three chocolate truffles.  They were very rich so I ate two; Glen swallowed the third.

As is our tradition when flying from Victoria, we arrived at the airport early to have dinner at the White Spot.  Glen swears they make the best burgers.  Period.  Also one of the better plates of fries.  We both indulged in the latter while Glen had a special BBQ burger and I had a veggie sandwich with provolone cheese.  It is always difficult leaving the island but until retirement happens, these jaunts will be short but sweet.