On Saturday morning, after reading some of the tourist info in our hotel room, we decided to walk to the old opera house. The Alte Oper Frankfurt was built in 1880 and once sat 2000 people. It suffered minor damage during World War I but in 1944, it was hit by a bomb. The fire gutted the building and the roof collapsed. As early as 1952, there was a movement to rebuilt the structure but not until 20 years later did the city permit this. By 1978, the internal structures were complete and in 1981, the famous Pegasus statue lowered onto the roof. It has hosted many classical and rock musicians over the years including Bryan Adams.
We took a hotel map with us this time so as to find it. Little did we know this would be our downfall. After viewing the opera house, we took a wrong turn and began heading deeper into downtown thinking we were making for the river. In fact, we went beyond the scope of the map so none of the side streets were what we expected. Finally, a lady offered to help us out. She pointed us in the right direction. Eventually we came to the shopping district and I recognized a building I had photographed the previous day. We headed to the town square to have lunch at one of the outside cafés. It was chilly so I was thrilled to get a seat under a heater. The tables were close together and the gentleman next to us said something in German to the affect that his wife also liked the heat. Glen replied and they both laughed--neither knowing what the other was saying.
We had a delicious goulash soup with a huge pretzel for lunch with our beer. While we enjoyed the chance to rest our feet, two weddings took place at the Town Hall. One young lad in the wedding party was dressed in Lederhosen.
We walked back to the hotel, changed then headed to Zum Storch am Dom for supper. The restaurant is first mentioned in 1317 and was frequented by the famous writer/renaissance man of Frankfurt, Johann Wolfgang von Geothe. After being destroyed in World War II, the building was rebuilt in 1953 and since 1960 has been in the capable hands of the Hahn family.
When you enter the restaurant, you feel you have stepped back to an earlier time. Gold lantern light warms the dark wood of the wainscoting (the walls were plaid) and bar. There are two rather bedraggled stuffed storks (hence the place's name) gracing the establishment. One near a 'nest' in the rafters and one on the bar. Trinkets from the past decorated the walls. It had a homey feel and the staff made you feel like part of the family. Beer was served in clay steins.
Glen wanted pig's knuckle but wasn't sure if he could handle it so asked about the size (he'd seen one in the afternoon that could have fed three people). Herr Hahn said it was a good German portion. We all laughed. The Storch specializes in Frankfurt cuisine which seems to be mostly meat and potatoes.
Glen started his meal with Chantrelle mushroom soup and I had consommé with German ravioli (yes, that's what it is called on the menu). While Glen tackled his pig's knuckle, I ate the house specialty, Sauerbraten with red cabbage and potato dumplings. I have tried making red cabbage myself and this had a far better taste so now I'm inspired to try making it again.
We waddled back to the hotel (a half hour walk) and the lights twinkling on the river were romantic. Several loving couples cuddled together on the benches. I didn't notice that one was two men but such things seem more accepted in Europe.
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