Walkabout

As you know from previous posts, when Glen attends a conference, I do a walkabout.  Curiosity drives me and who wants to spend the whole day inside when there are new things to experience.  Breakfast was included in the conference fees so Glen and I enjoyed it with a grad student and post-doc from University of British Columbia.  Glen is at the point in his career where he's a magnet for young academics who want to tap his knowledge.  He is always willing to share.

We were to meet for lunch so I organized my Monday walkabout with that in mind.  My plan was to hunt for another letterbox.  It had been planted in the spring but the last few attempts at finding it had failed.  I hoped I'd be luckier.  The box was hidden in the middle of the financial district but first I stopped at a artistic display we had passed on Saturday.  Turns out it was the work of the winners of Design Biennial Boston which recognizes emerging architects and designers.  These were modern art concepts set in a small park for the city to enjoy.

The letterbox was a tribute to George Thorndike Angell who helped found the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and brought about the state's first anti-cruelty legislation.  He was also an advocate for public health and safeguarding food.  The fountain in the memorial plaza was originally designed to provide water for carriage horses.  In 1982, a dry pond created using bronze marked the 125th anniversary of the humane society.  One of Angell's quotes inscribes the base of the pond:  "Our humane societies are now sowing the seed of a harvest which will one of these days protect not only the birds of the air and beasts of the fold but also human beings as well."

I also didn't find the letterbox but did enjoy the park next door in Post Office Square.  It had a wonderful vine-laced pergola which beckoned people from the surrounding office buildings to come and enjoy a moment of peace in their hectic lives.  It was dedicated to Norman B Leventhal, a prominent Boston businessman and philanthropist (died in April 2015) who oversaw the park's creation.  Built on the top of a parking garage, the parking fees pay for the park's upkeep.  Home to 125 species of plants, it's an unique oasis in this concrete jungle.

I happen to love concrete jungles and Boston's financial district is a treat for anyone who enjoys startling architecture (see photo).  There was an exciting mix of old and new with lovely art deco highlighting the steel and glass.  I couldn't linger as I had to return to the Westin where I enjoyed a quick bag lunch with Glen.  Afterwards, I waited while he and his colleagues made their presentation to the committee.  I spent the afternoon knitting while watching the comings and goings of the harbour view from our room's window.

The supper provided by the conference were light canapés which didn't appeal to us so we returned to MJ O'Connor to enjoy fish and chips (Glen) and onion soup and ahi tuna salad (me).  Both were excellent.  It also gave Glen a break from the science and politics of the conference.

My walkabout on Tuesday was to see the working side of the harbour.  Instead of heading into town, I explored the Seaport district.  I also wanted to check out the boat where we'd be having our Harbour Cruise/Dining experience on that evening.  After having fun photographing fishing boats at the Boston Fish Pier (celebrated its 100 anniversary last year), I ended up at Harpoon Brewery (see previous post).  In between, I checked out the World Trade Center Boston and Liberty Wharf.  The latter was the dream of Jimmy Doulos, a young Greek immigrant, who opened Liberty Café in 1924 at the Boston Fish Pier selling seafood to his patrons.  Five years later, he moved to a nearby wharf and built a restaurant that catered to all, even the famous Kennedy family.  Now, it is an upscale dining experience with modern office spaces above the restaurants.  Jimmy was known as the 'Chowder King' and died a wealthy man in 1981.  Not bad for a someone who arrived in Boston with $13 in his pocket and speaking no English.

Glen and I shunned the bus provided and walked down to Commonwealth pier where the newly-renovated Spirit of Boston waited.  The cruiser had two floors of dining and an observation deck.  Since we were early, we got a window seat but because the boat didn't depart until after we had eaten, this made little difference.  We spent most of the cruise on the upper deck enjoying the harbour lights.

Dinner was buffet-style so perhaps it was just as well we didn't eat while underway.  We enjoyed salad and veggies as well as salmon, chicken and boneless ribs all washed down with Samuel Adams Boston Lager.  The cruise did a tour of Boston Inner Harbor and passed many landmarks which we knew from our walks.  When we turned around at Fort Independence, Glen and I watched the airplanes come and go.

Fort Independencce sits on Castle Island, a site that has been a key fortification in protecting the harbour since 1634.  Called Castle William by the British, it was first an earthen, then a timber fort.  They abandoned it, burning it to the ground, when George Washington's army attacked in 1776.  It was quickly rebuilt and named Fort Adams.  In 1797, it became Fort Independence and the present fort was erected in the 1830s.  It was an important military hub during the Civil War and World Wars I and II.  Edgar Allan Poe, who served there, took inspiration from a tale he heard and wrote, The Cask of Amontillado.

Due to a breakdown in communications, we thought the conference ended that evening so had booked to fly out the following morning.  Glen missed several key talks which was a shame.   The flights were good and we arrived on time.  We had supper at a local restaurant, ironically called, Boston Pizza.

Make Way for Ducklings!

When the children were younger, one of their favourite books was Make Way for Ducklings by Robert McCloskey, published in 1941.  A mother duck takes her brood from the Charles River to the Boston Public Gardens.  Little did we know this book is the official children's book of Massachusetts or that there was a statue of the ducklings in the park.  I loved the duckling's names of Jack, Kack, Lack, Mack, Nack, Ouack, Pack, and Quack.

It was a misty morning on Sunday, a great day for ducks, when we began our walk to Boston Common and the nearby Public Gardens.  Boston Common, created in 1634, is the oldest city park in the United States.  The British camped there before marching to Lexington (see Paul Revere's Ride in the previous post) and until 1830 was often a cow pasture.

We headed north on Summer Street making a detour at the South Station.  This Amtrak depot had an ornate exterior (opened in 1898) which promised an equally antique look inside.  No such luck.  The building suffered several demolitions over the decades as train travel decreased.  It wasn't until the 1970s that it was finally named an historic site.  In 1984 (the year Samuel Adams beer was created--see previous post) renovations began.  It now houses Amtrak, subway, and bus stations.

As we left the station, it began to rain.  We continued on our way, passing along the edge of Chinatown and into an area called Downtown Crossing.  Just before the Common, Summer Street became Winter Street for some unknown reason other than whimsey.  Despite the wet weather, the Common was a popular spot for Bostonians on a Sunday.  We basically cut through the park on the way to the Public Gardens, pausing for a moment at the Central Burying Ground where William Billings is buried.  Billings is considered to be America's first choral composer although he wasn't inducted into the Songwriter's Hall of Fame until 1970.

The Public Gardens, created in 1837, were the first botanical public gardens in the United States.   Once a salt marsh, it now has many stately trees and flower gardens.  And of course, lots of ducks and swans.  The famous Swan Boats (see photo) have been plying the pond since 1877.  Inspired by the opera, Lohengrin by Wagner, they are flat-bottomed boats that appear to be powered by elegant swans.

We'd walked for about an hour in the rain so decided not to linger in the gardens.  We retraced our steps, crossing Tremont Street at Edgar Allan Poe square which was really just an intersection.  Poe, best known for his macabre stories and the poem The Raven, was born in Boston in 1809.

We had spotted a pub on Chauncy Street but as it was only 11:30 on a Sunday, it was closed.  We continued down Summer Street to check out what was available in the train station.  Here, we had our cheapest meal at Tavern in the Square.  We drank pints of Yeungling bee and enjoyed a hearty lunch: a Cuban sandwich (Glen) and Chicken Quesadillas (me).  The restaurant is a local success story that began as an attempt to create a sports bar that appealed to those who wanted a place with good food and friendly staff.  Despite being in the centre of the railway station, we enjoyed a quiet meal where we could watch golf if we wanted.  Twice the manager asked if we were enjoying ourselves.

Back at the hotel, we registered for the meeting and attended the first lecture, an interesting study in how E. coli  O157:H7 was discovered in lettuce in Britain.  Surprising to no one, mostly older women (probably dieting) showed signs of infection.  Afterwards we had a lovely buffet dinner of clams, mussels (from Prince Edward Island), chicken and biscuits, chowder, corn bread, and salads.  To drink was a beer from the local Harpoon Brewery called Octoberfest.  Founded a couple of years after the Samuel Adams brewery opened, three friends wanted to create beer such as they had had in Europe.  It was the beginning of the craft beer trend when they opened their Boston brewery in 1986. I could see the brewery from the window of our hotel room, that's how local it was.

"One if by land, Two if by Sea"

Most Americans reading the above title will know this blog is about Boston.  We visited this city to present a bid for VTEC 2018 at the VTEC 2015 meeting.  I say 'we' because I helped Glen with some ideas he proposed to the international committee.  Unfortunately, we lost the bid to Florence, Italy so enjoying the city helped deal with our disappointment.

Boston was never on my 'bucket list' of must-see places.  I figured it was another large American city with little interest to me except that it was the site of the Boston Marathon.  I was glad to be proven wrong.  In our wanderings, I learned a little history but mostly I soaked in the city's vibes and its friendly people.

Boston is the capital of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, a name harkening back to its being a colony of Britain.  Originally called Three Hills, Boston was renamed in 1630 by Puritan settlers after a town in Lincolnshire, England.   Fresh water drew them to the Charles River which runs through the city.  As the town grew, the hills were used to fill in the marshy areas so only their names exist today, like Beacon Hill.  

We arrived on Friday evening after an uneventful flight with a stopover in Toronto.  The Westin Boston Harbourfront was twenty minutes from the airport via a tunnel under the harbour.  There was an Irish pub (Irish immigrated to Boston during the Potato Famine) in the hotel that had good reviews so we tried it.  MJ O'Connors was quiet and the food was excellent.  We enjoyed grilled cod ( 2 inches/ 5cm thick) cooked to perfection and served with potatoes, spinach and lobster.  Glen declared the banana bread pudding 'to die for'.  The local beer was Samuel Adams Brewery, of course, so I indulged in their Brick Red Ale which came in a what I called a 'girlie' glass.  Glen had Smithwicks, his favourite Irish beer (they've been brewing beer since 1710), but switched to Brick Red after tasting mine.  

At one time, Boston was renown for its breweries but gradually they all folded.  The Boston Beer Company, founded in 1828, lasted until 1957.  But, the city saw a revival of craft brews begun in 1984 by Jim Koch who created Samuel Adams Boston Lager.  Harpoon Brewery (I'll write about this later) began a year later and now 72 breweries call Boston home.

Koch is a 6th generation brewer but he came to the business via Harvard University.  His grandfather had to give up their brewery in St. Louis, Missouri during Prohibition but kept the recipes.  Jim's father chose his favourite one for the new brewery.  Koch named the beer after one of America's founding fathers (patriots), Samuel Adams, whose business was making malt for beer (popular belief is he was a brewer, too but this isn't so). 

Saturday morning, we discovered how expensive it is to eat in Boston when we were told the breakfast buffet was $24 (not including tax) each (that's $30 CDN).  We ate at Starbucks which was across the lobby from the buffet and saved ourselves $30.

My plan for Saturday was to walk to Old North Church (see photo) to get two letterboxes hidden nearby.  My maps really didn't give me a good idea of distances so we headed out to explore as far as we could go.  Glen told me with his new orthotics, he could walk for miles which we did.  Boston has many nicknames: "The Cradle of Liberty" (because its role in the American Revolution), "Beantown" (refers to baked beans made with molasses, a favourite when the city traded with the West Indies), and "America's Walking City" (the city is compact).  We discovered that it was a great city for walking.  

The Westin is part of the Boston Convention Centre complex built in the Seaport District of South Boston.  Surrounding it are old warehouses that now house up-scale condos and lofts.  We crossed the Summer Street Bridge over Fort Point Channel and spotted The Boston Tea Party Museum in the middle of Congress Street Bridge.  We walked toward this as I had joked I would sprinkle tea into the harbour when I arrived.   We didn't go in but discovered the Harborwalk there.  Begun in 1984 (must have been an exciting year for Boston), it meanders along the waterfront using piers and access roads as its path, thus avoiding most of the car traffic.

We passed the New England Aquarium and took a detour through Columbus Park (Christopher of 1492 fame) with its Rose Kennedy rose garden.  All the wharfs had names like Rowes, India, Central, Long, Commercial, Lewis, Clark, Sargents, Union, Battery, and Constitution.  Some we explored, some we just looked at.  At Hanover Street, we headed inland to Old North Church passing a monument to Paul Revere.  That's when we realized the significance of the church.  Its steeple was where the lanterns flashed warnings to the patriots.

Built in 1723, Old North Church is still a viable congregation with the official name of Christ Church, an Episcopal (Anglican) denomination.  In 1775, Paul Revere asked the sexton, Robert Newman, and Captain John Pulling to signal, using lanterns, the patriots across the Charles River of the British Army's movements.  "One if by land, Two if by Sea" described the two different routes the enemy would take to move inland.  There were 30 riders who would deliver the message should Paul Revere be captured (he escaped Boston by rowing across the river before doing his famous ride).   His fellow patriot, William Dawes, also rode (via Boston Neck) to warn Samuel Adams and John Hancock they were in danger.  The poem, Paul Revere's Ride by Henry W. Longfellow commemorates this event.

A feature of the church that appealed to Glen were the pew boxes, each sporting a brass plate informing us who had owned them.  Apparently each family decorated their own box and the closer to the altar, the wealthier the family.  Glen remarked that his mom would have loved the assigned seating as she didn't like others sitting in 'their' pew.

The letterbox we sought was close to the Copp's Hill Burying Ground.  If you've read my past blogs, you know I have an affinity for graveyards.  So I was thrilled to explore this one before finding the box.  Some of the graves were so eroded, all writing had been washed from their surface.  Founded in 1659, it was the city's second graveyard and is the final resting place of Robert Newman, the sexton.

It was noon (we'd been walking for 2 hours) when we left the church so we headed back to the harbour front where we'd spotted a restaurant we thought we'd enjoy.  We followed part of the Freedom Trail (red brick path in the sidewalk) past Paul Revere's house.  Built in 1680, it's the oldest house in the city of Boston and I almost walked passed it.  I did notice it had a hitching post which I thought unusual but it was only when a tour guide said it was Paul's house, I realized its significance.

By the time we reached Joe's American Bar and Grill, we were hot, hungry, thirsty, and tired of walking.  The wait for their huge patio on the wharf was 15 minutes but they seated us inside right away.  First up was beer, of course.  We ordered two pints of Yeugling Lager.  Established in 1829, it is the oldest, working brewery in America (see my blog entry, Golfing in Florida where I explore the history of this beer.)  Glen enjoyed an ahi tuna burger whereas I had a blackened fish sandwich.  

We returned to the hotel via Congress Street  which lead us through a highway system with no access to our hotel.  Finally, I spotted a bridge that, according to our maps, lead to the convention centre.  It had an interesting statue to Polish Partisans of World War II.  

We took it easy for the rest of the afternoon and walked no further than MJ O'Connor pub for supper.  I had a velvety clam chowder and an appetizer pizza.  Glen had meatloaf with mashed potatoes.  When my pizza came it was the size of a dinner plate--an entrée in Canada.  

Fun with Family

Due to work obligations, we couldn't leave Calgary until the afternoon of July 7th.  We headed to Sicamous, about halfway to Victoria to stay at the Best Western and eat at Joe Schmuck's Roadhouse.  It was 35ºC but their patio was shaded and an artificial breeze generator kept us cool.  Most shunned the heat so we ate alone.  Schmuck's deep fried dill pickles are great and so is their pizza.  Glen also indulged in a sumptuous blueberry cheesecake.

The next day we drove to Tswwasswen to catch the ferry arriving in the condo at supper time.  After unpacking the cooler, we headed to Christie's.  It's a tradition!  We drank Philips Blue Buck, and shared some wings.  I ordered the Gyoza while Glen had fish and chips.  Although an Asian dish, gyoza never comes with chopsticks so I've started carrying disposable chopsticks in my purse.  They came in handy as it seemed weird eating dumplings with a fork.

The next day was a flurry of activity as we prepared the condo for our guests.  Geoff, Melissa, Elijah and Miles were in Seattle and would arrive that evening via the Victoria Clipper.  They had a great time visiting the sites in Seattle but Elijah wasn't well.  It was good they could come to a home rather than another hotel room.  But first we had supper at the Flying Otter.  After a 45 minute wait, we were all very hungry (Elijah napped during this time).  Geoff, Glen, and I had the steak special (with shrimp) which was delicious and Melissa had fries and lettuce wraps.  Miles had a plain cheese pizza off the kid's menu.  Geoff and I drank Okanagan Springs Pale Ale while Glen had Hoyne Pilsner.

The next morning, Glen had to work so the rest of us walked to Gonzales Beach (see photo of Geoff and the boys).  The tide was on its way out leaving behind very smelly seaweed.  Miles called it the Stinky Beach and since its original name was Foul Bay, that seemed appropriate.  We then headed up Foul Bay Road, a street that winds through a wonderful old neighbourhood.

Glen met us in Oak Bay and we drove to the Marina Restaurant for lunch.  We thought we'd eat in the café but it was really just a coffee shop so went upstairs.  Glen said I was becoming his mother in wanting to eat in restaurants with tablecloths.  Not so, but it is a lovely place and the food is wonderful.  We were not the only ones casually dressed and when they pulled out a kid's menu I relaxed.

Elijah was feeling better and even tried the calamari I ordered to share (it's the best).  He had spaghetti while Miles had a burger.  Melissa enjoyed a cocktail called For Your Eyes Only while the rest of us had OK Pale Ale.  Geoff ate mussels, Melissa a burger, Glen enjoyed fishcakes while I had a delicious bento box.  Dessert finished the meal and I even indulged in a pavlova.  Glen's sundae was huge!  While waiting for dessert, Geoff tested the app he's creating.  It tells you the name of the surrounding mountains when you point your phone at them.  We couldn't see Mt Baker but we knew where it was.  Turns out the US Geological Survey database calls it Grant's Peak which is the highest peak of the mountain.  Who knew?

Saturday was fish day.  Geoff loves the Finest at Sea so we had to make a stop there for oysters, mussels and fish.  Due to their lack of seafood, we ended up with 5 dungeness crabs and a $95 salmon fillet.  The kids were playing in the playground with Melissa and Grampy but came with us as we checked out Fisherman's Wharf.  Glen has always wanted the boys to feed the seals so bought a plate of herring and they did just that.  Pretty exciting stuff!  I was happy The Fish Store had oysters so we bought some to round out our feast.

Next, we headed to the Hudson Market.  Housed in the old Hudson's Bay store on Douglas Street, this market is now home local artisans and food producers.  It's interesting as the Hudson's Bay Company promised Victoria a public market in 1860 but that never came to fruition.  Just inside the front doors is a huge Salt Spring Island Cheese boutique with tasting stations for cheese and jams.  We bought our favourite cheeses and ended up with a free jar of jam.  At the butcher, we got Melissa a steak as she doesn't eat fish (she made her famous gratin potatoes for us) then I spoke to a lady at Olive the Senses, an olive oil/balsamic vinegar boutique and learned Croatia doesn't export its olive oils (see Castles and Churches).

The kids are great walkers so we headed down to Bastion Square to see what the vendors there had to offer.  Miles bought a shell necklace with a cat's face hand-painted on it.  By this time, we all wanted lunch so headed back to the condo.

Sunday was a beach day, unfortunately, we awoke to fog.  That didn't matter as the kids just wanted to play in the sand.  So I watched them as Glen, Melissa and Geoff headed down the beach to find my letterbox.  Turns out it was gone.  It was the second one I'd lost that week which was kind of sad.  Melissa caught a jellyfish which was the highlight of our morning.

Monday we headed to Beacon Hill Park so Melissa could find one of my letterboxes.  Turns out it was also gone.  The petting zoo beckoned and we enjoyed seeing all the farm animals although the boys didn't want to pat the goats.  At the top of the hill, Melissa found a letterbox. The clues were horrible so it was good we were there to help.  The boys then enjoyed time at the Beacon Hill playground.

In the afternoon, Melissa and Geoff headed downtown to stay at a boutique hotel (Bedford Regency Hotel) and we had a sleep-over with the boys.  We took them to dine at The White Spot arriving just before the crowds did.  The boys ordered milkshakes which they drank rather quickly which meant when Miles' burger arrived in a pirate ship, he was not hungry.  It also had sauce which his grandparents didn't realize he didn't want.  Elijah had macaroni and cheese and they both had ice cream for dessert.  Glen had a burger (he swears they make the best burgers) and I had teriyaki chicken bowl.  Glen's dessert was a huge chocolate brownie.  The White Spot is a local chain that began 85 years ago when Nat Bailey began selling lunches to Vancouver tourists from his truck.  Granville Island Brewery brews the beer we like, called Nat Bailey Lager.

The next morning we were off to play at Blenkinsop Mini Golf and except for a bunch of camp kids who were out of control, we enjoyed the game.  Elijah told us it wasn't real mini golf as it didn't have a windmill.  What a funny kid!  Melissa and Geoff joined us for lunch. They had enjoyed dinner at the Bard and Banker and took our recommendation of the Shine Café for breakfast.  Geoff declared his to be the best eggs Benedict he'd ever tasted.

Wednesday we all headed to Sooke.  Melissa wanted to kayak and everyone else wanted to have fun on the Whiffen Spit (see Sooke, Puke & Spit).  A horrid cold had me in its grip otherwise I'd have gone off with Melissa.  As it turned out, the wind was up so she would need a guide (he was with another group) and they only rented two-seater kayaks.  Next time!  It was low tide at the Spit so we had a great time exploring all the tidal pools.  There were thousands of baby crabs and sea anemones. Geoff treated us to lunch at the Stickleback Eatery where we sat on their lovely patio.  Elijah and wasps don't see eye-to-eye (no one likes wasps) and so he spent much of lunch trying to avoid them.

The next day, Melissa was up early to go to Bubby Rose's Bakery for their famous cinnamon buns.  They had discovered this place on their last trip and wanted us to enjoy it as well.  What an incredible breakfast!!  We then headed to the harbour and did a brief tour of the BC Legislature grounds before the gang boarded the Clipper to begin their the journey home.  The condo seemed awfully quiet when we got home.  As the washing machine cleaned sheets and towels, I napped hoping I would rid myself of the sniffles.

Weekend in the Rockies

I didn't think I'd post about our weekend in Banff as it was work-related and I'd posted about the mountains before (see Camping, Golfing, and Letterboxing).  However, we did a few things outside our usual 'box' so I felt it was worth a blog.

In the spring, Glen decided to bid on hosting an international conference in 2018 and so contacted the Banff Centre.  Jodi was very helpful in making suggestions and facilitating Glen's requirements.  The Centre proposed we visit the site.  Well, we'd been many times and so didn't need to check out rooms, etc.  However, we were in town the weekend they were hosting a 'get-to-know-us' session so decided to go.

We had a blast.  The people we met who worked at the centre were fantastic and it was so nice to meet Jodi.  Such a sweet girl!  We also met with the folks at Discover Banff Tours and from MountView BBQ.

Glen and I had already brainstormed what we felt would showcase Western Culture to the conference but we had no idea what the Banff Centre could arrange.  Our weekend proved to be enlightening giving us some great ideas (and the people who could implement them).

When we checked into our room, we were given a selfie stick (a telescoping uni-pod used to take selfie phone photos).  Glen thought it was a silly idea but soon became a convert (see photo).  It was a lot of fun to use and broke the ice on many occasions.  It's surprising the number of things a selfie stick can become.

The opening reception was in the Walter Phillips Gallery.  We'd passed the gallery door many times but had never entered.  We enjoyed fantastic hors d'oeuvres and an interesting exhibit called Séance Fiction.  We also met two colleagues of Glen's who had run conferences at the centre before.  After chatting with our hosts, we boarded buses which would take us to the Tunnel Mountain sight of the barbecue.

Two large, yurt-like, 'donut' tents enclose huge fires surrounded by picnic tables.  Food is served buffet style with Alberta beef the featured dish.  Beer is cooled in ice packed in aluminum water troughs.  A duo played old and modern western/bluegrass tunes (they even did a Rolling Stones song) and taught us several line dances.  We enjoyed true Western hospitality!  The venue is run by Brewster Travel -- a company begun by two brothers in 1892 to bring tourists into the the Rocky Mountains.

After breakfast the next day, we learned more about ourselves and the workings of the professional development and leadership program at the Centre.  Normally, I hate introducing myself to a group.  What do I say that will mean anything to anyone?  Banff Centre used photographs to help us say something about ourselves other than our job descriptions.  It was an innovative technique.  We then toured the facilities seeing the meeting rooms as well as the costume room which is normally off limits to the public.  We learned that if you see the opera, Marriage of Figaro anywhere in North America, the costumes were created at the Banff Centre.

We then walked through grounds to the artist colony which is another area the public can't enter.  I had passed its inviting path before so was glad to have my curiosity satisfied.  We saw the 'boat' house where Yann Martel wrote Life of Pi.  Each house in the colony was designed for a specific type of artist so if you are a composer, there is a special place with a piano where you can create your masterpieces.

Lunch was at the top of a triple black diamond ski hill.  Just saying, I'm glad I didn't have to ski down.  We took the chair lift up Mt. Norquay to Cliffhouse Bistro (built in the 1950s).  Glen insisted on using his selfie stick while we rode the lift.  He and I have had some nasty experiences on lifts before.  I've lost skis (he stepped on them as we boarded) and he's lost a ski pole so I figured both his new stick and his phone would soon be gone.  I don't like heights so it was a nervous 10 minute ride.  The views from the top were spectacular!  The lunch was a cheese/meat/cracker/bread platter with a self-serve salad bar.  Bar service was slow but we were a big group.  There are climbing routes starting from the restaurant so if you wish for something more adventuresome, check it out here.

Afternoon activities included horseback riding or visiting the Cave and Basin.  We had seen the cave before and I hadn't been on a horse in 50 years so we opted to go to the stables.  Due to a scheduling mix-up, the folks at Warner Stables told us we'd have to go out as two successive groups and might miss our evening banquet.  About half decided to return to the hotel, Glen included.  My horse was a gelding called Crow, named for a native tribe.  As we walked the trail, I came to think of him as a teenager who tried to get away with anything he could.  I was quite comfortable controlling him so we got along.  The only issue came when the horse in front of us spooked.  He was ridden by an experienced rider and somehow, she controlled him while I easily got Crow back in line.  Not sure how I did that but perhaps the horse-riding gods smiled on me.   We completed the Bow River tour in an hour exploring a part of Banff I'd never seen before.  It was fun!

I got back in time to shower off the horsey smell then it was time to gather for the banquet.  It was in an upper conference room and served a choice of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres.  All delicious.  The room had a camping decor that included a tent and fake campfire (where you could take selfies).  The evening's entertainment was the famous Canadian band, Blue Rodeo who often stop in Banff when they tour.  Formed in 1984, the band has 11 Juno awards and a star in the Canadian Walk of Fame.  Their music is classified as country rock so they appeal to a wide audience.  The conference room balcony overlooked the stage so we had a premier viewing area.  After the show, we gravitated to the MacLab Bistro for drinks.

Breakfast was served in the professional centre lobby and billed as 'to go'.  We ate ours in our room and discovered it could divide easily into breakfast and lunch.  We headed home to get ready for our trip to Victoria.

Slovenja Trip Tidbits

Always when I write my travel blogs there is information that just doesn't fit into the narrative but would be helpful to know.  Here's is a list of bits and pieces that might be helpful should you visit Slovenja.

-- tips are included in the price of a meal, usually between 19 and 22%.  Tipping extra garners much appreciation

-- using a few Slovenian words like welcome (dobrodosil) and thank you (hvala) is always met with a smile.  Hvala sounds like folla with a v after the f (it's weird)

-- 60% of Slovenja is forested and what is logged, is exported to Austria

-- most villages have a linden tree where traditional gatherings solved disputes or made decisions affecting the community.

-- we had a chance to tour the famous Lipica stud farm where they've been breeding Lipizzaners (white horses) since 1580.  Maybe next time...

-- on our trip to the Cave, we saw Lake Cerknica, Slovenia's biggest lake, which only exists in the spring (it was dry when we passed it)

-- the official symbol of Ljubljana is a dragon as seen on the Dragon Bridge, supposedly the dragon was killed by the Greek, Jason, and his Argonauts as they passed through the Ljubljana marshes

-- most visitors to Slovenja are from Europe but it is also a big tourist destination for South Koreans

-- it has more casinos per 1000 people than any other European country (its population is only 2 million)

-- Ask for senior's rate at tourist sites if you are over 60 as it is a significant discount

-- If you have a chip credit card, know your password.  These aren't needed in the United States but everywhere else uses them

-- most hotels offer bed and breakfast.  Glen learned to enjoy a tiny cup of espresso whereas I loved café latté

-- Slovenja is prosperous with clean streets and lush farms.  We only saw one beggar who asked Christian for money--he even spoke English

-- smoking is big in Europe and you just can't avoid it, especially in outdoor venues.  However, you don't see cigarette butts littering the streets

-- you can drink beer for breakfast in the Frankfurt airport and Cuban cigars are cheap at the Duty Free there

Playing Hookey

The next morning, while Glen attended his conference, I relaxed in our room knitting and reading, mostly on our balcony overlooking the lake.  What a wonderful view!

Since the afternoon was devoted to clinical studies of which Glen had little interest, he decided to play hookey.  We wanted to visit Bled Castle since he hadn't done so the last time.  But, how things have changed!  Instead of a dirt path winding its way up the flank of the hill, now a gravelled path with guardrails and benches zigzags up to the castle (it takes 15 minutes at an easy pace).

The castle (see photo) celebrated 1000 years of existence in 2011 and is the oldest castle in Slovenja.  It looms 130 m (426 ft) above the lake, hence in a great strategic position.   The entrance fee is 9 euros (about $12) for adults and that includes a 1.50 euro credit for the castle's restaurant.

The castle's roof was being re-tiled so a huge crane and scaffolding marred its beauty.  I was glad I'd photographed it before (see Stairway to Heaven?).  We found a letterbox just outside the castle which my first outside North America.  ON the castle's ramparts,  I snapped more pictures as Glen soaked in the ambiance.  A server for the restaurant pointed out Tito's summer house then brought us a couple of beers.  What a civilized way to see the castle.  Glen had no interest in viewing the museum and since clouds began to gather, we headed back to town stopping at our favourite, Pub Bled (see photo), just as the rain started.  We weren't the only ones who sought shelter but we were the first ones so we sat in our 'usual' seats which have a great view of the lake.

Back at the hotel, we were asked to fill out a tourist survey.  We ended up having a long chat with the young man.  He felt they could promote their country as a hub for seeing Croatia, Italy, Austria and Hungary since it was cheaper to stay in Slovenja and all these countries were less than an hour's drive away.  We told him he should consider his country a wonderful destination but perhaps it was a secret to be shared with only a few.  Our only complaint was there were only two flights per day between Slovenja and Frankfurt.

After breakfast the next day, I decided to have a look at Tito's summer house.  Tito (born Josip Broz--Tito was an assumed name) was a Croatian but born to a Slovenian mother so the country has a soft spot for him.  He fought in the Austro-Hungarian army in World War I but was captured by the Russians.  Revolting workers freed him and he joined a Bolshevik group where he embraced the idea of communism.  Upon returning to Kingdom of Yugoslavia, he joined the Communist party which was declared illegal in 1921.  He adopted various aliases (Tito) as his group pressured the government for change.  When the Nazi's invaded, the kingdom collapsed and Tito became leader of the Partisans who fought to liberate their people.  He was recognized as leader of the country after the war but his relationship with Stalin became strained.  When he was expelled from the union of socialist states (USSR), Tito turned to the US for support.  He developed a policy of neutrality which made Yugoslavia a friendly nation during the Cold War.  Most viewed him as a benevolent dictator who believed in the unity of Yugoslavia.  He died in 1980 in Ljubljana, Slovenja.

His summer house, now Vila Bled, sits on a hill next to the lake which offers fantastic views of the island church.  If you do the lake walk, you enter the grounds through its old stone walls.  There is a magnificent staircase up to the hotel and although I didn't enter the building, I did wander along the terrace.  The building is little changed from its 1950s luxury and it would be a fascinating place to stay.

I continued my walk meaning to turn back after I'd left the grounds.  Unfortunately, a local artist nabbed me and after telling him I had no money for his paintings, I hurried past him.  I felt uneasy about returning that way so decided to complete the circuit of the lake.  It takes 2 hours so I was ready for my lunch when I reached the Hotel Golf.

One fascinating aspect of Lake Bled is the lane buoys that dot the lake's surface.  The town has had rowing regattas for over 100 years.  Beginning in 1930, it has also hosted national and world championships.  In fact, we just missed the 2015 World Rowing Cup races that happened at the beginning of May.  At the main boathouse, not far from Vila Bled, they honour the Slovenian Olympic rowers who have won gold medals.

That evening, Glen and I walked down the stairs to the Grand Hotel Toplice for the conference banquet.  It began to rain as we enjoyed champagne on the terrace.  We dined on duck and lamb and met some young professors, one from Japan and the other from Australia (born in Africa).  Both spoke rather limited English but the African was the first person I've ever met who 'burst into a smile'.  After supper, we did three dances then left to pack.

We rose at 4 am, took the shuttle to the airport, had a small breakfast there, then flew to Frankfurt where we had a second breakfast.  I enjoyed a smoked salmon wrap but could not eat the arugula salad--too much arugula!  Our flight home was long but uneventful.  We landed at midnight our time so were happy to go to bed after supper and sleep flat.