Week Two in Victoria

I'm tempted to say our second week here was the same as the first but it wasn't. Monday we headed downtown to get bicycle helmets at Mountain Equipment Co-op. We also wanted to pick up Glen's favourite incense. But, the main reason for the trip was dim sum at Don Mee's.

As usual the food was great and the 'yummy yummy' lady served us our favourite - sticky rice. She was particularly happy this day and sang while she cut the leaves wrapping the rice. She has a lovely voice. We pigged out on seafood dim sum but still had plenty of leftovers for supper.

Tradition dictates we walk down Fan Tan Alley. One building was under construction so the alley was even narrower. At Whirled Arts, Glen began his incense hunt. He wanted Mogra but couldn't find it. The clerk assured us they didn't sell that type. I picked up some Xmas presents (made by women in India who are paid fairly) for Elijah and Miles then did a quick search of a stack of incense boxes and found the Mogra. Unfortunately, they had only one package so Glen will have to find a source in Calgary.

Tuesday, we were at Mount Doug golfing. We met Iain's friend, Richard, finishing his round and had a brief chat. We played with two long-time friends, Ed and Dennis, both very good golfers. I struggled for the first three holes then things finally came together after a young doe crossed the fairway not ten feet from the tee box. Later, at the 7th hole, an eagle flew over just as I was teeing up. I had to forego my birdwatching instincts and hit the ball. I ended up paring the hole.

Wednesday, we did household chores and worked on the slideshow Glen made of our road trip. We compromised on music and came up with a nice show.

Thursday we were at The Ridge golfing and Glen had 3 pars. He still missed the green on #6 but he's getting close. On the 7th hole, my ball hit the water, bounced then hit a rock, bounced again then landed in the middle of the fairway. I had to chip up a steep hill but popped it for the first time. It was a good feeling. On the final hole, right by the clubhouse patio, I sank a 25 ft putt. It ended the morning well.

That evening we met up with Iain and Janet at Haultain Fish and Chips, a place I've always wanted to try. Meg and Mike lived on Haultain Street so the name is sentimental. We walked along it until we saw smoke billowing forth from their cookers. The place boasts the best fish and chips in Victoria and Iain confirmed this. The restaurant has an old-fashioned diner atmosphere (they also do take-out) of vinyl and arborite. The servers and cooks have worked there for years so you feel you are guests of a family. The cafe was packed at 6:30--it is a small place but we lucked out and nabbed the last booth. The bottled beer was cold and the wine came with foam on the top (obviously from a box but good none-the-less). The fish and chips were indeed the best we've had. Thick slabs of halibut had been quickly dipped in batter before frying. The chips were homemade and excellent. Neither Glen nor Iain had the coleslaw and our server said they'd ordered the 'man's meal' but they missed out as the coleslaw was very good with green onions added to the cabbage and carrots.

At 7:15, the cook came asking how we were paying and at 7:30, they kicked us out. Obviously going home to family was more important than feeding folks who wanted to linger over their dinner. We didn't mind as we'd had a good hour's chat with Iain and Janet, but needless-to-say, we were the last ones in the place before the door slammed shut.

Friday, we met Tom and Isabel at the Art Gallery to see the Emily Carr exhibit. Most of Carr's works were ones that usually hung in the gallery but they had augmented the display with some of her earlier pieces and some paintings of artists like Lawren Harris who had influenced her style. The exhibit was small but one could truly drink in her paintings and feel what she tried to conveyed through her art. It was very moving.

Afterwards we headed to the Abkhazi Gardens which I wrote about in the previous post.

Saturday was beach day and we headed down to Gonzales Beach to have a picnic lunch and lay in the sun watching the kids play in the water and the whale-watching boats pound past. The air was crystal clear so the Olympic Mountains of Washington floated above us.

Suppertime found us at Christie's Carriage House Pub treating our neighbours, Ray and Cynthia, to supper in honour of their 80th birthdays. They have been very good at looking after the place during the renos so we felt a dinner out is a small price to pay for peace of mind. Besides, they are a fun couple and we had lots of laughs.

Today, we were golfing again at The Ridge. I struggled for the first three holes before finally shaking the double par scores off my back. At the 6th hole (a peninsula surrounded by water), both Glen and I plopped our balls on the green and parred the hole. It was a cause to celebrate. I ended up with 2 pars so had a strong finish. My second par was a whisper close to being a birdie.

We hope to end the day by Skyping with our grandsons which will finish the week off nicely.

Hidden Gems II

We discovered another hidden gem in Victoria within walking distance of our condo. In fact, we have passed it many times walking from Gonzales Beach to Safeway via Foul Bay Road. It's called the Abkhazi Gardens. Our friends, Tom and Isabel, invited us to join them for lunch there after viewing the Emily Carr exhibit at the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria.

The garden began when Marjorie (Peggy) Pemberton-Carter bought the property in late 1945 and built a summerhouse on its grounds. She began landscaping the land then received a letter from an exiled Georgian Prince, Nicholas Abkhazi, whom she had met in Paris in the 1920s. They married in November of 1946 and settled in a house built on the land in 1947. They each brought their own creative energy to the gardens and worked on them for 40 years.

The house and garden are now owned by The Land Conservancy of BC who acquired the property in 2000. They created a restaurant/tea room and gift shop in the home and it is here we had a delicious lunch.

The tea room had a few tables scattered over a stone patio but we chose to sit inside, enjoying the view from what was originally Peggy and Nicholas' sitting room. Glen had a refreshing beet salad while I had a cup of chunky tomato soup. Both were excellent. We then enjoyed Peggy's lunch of a crisp salad with balsamic vinaigrette and smoked salmon nestled on homemade bread, smothered with a dill/cream cheese spread. Beverages were tea, coffee, apple juice or water. I chose the Abkhazi Tea blend created by Silk Road Tea. It had a delicate flavour with a hint of vanilla finish. Glen drank Salt Spring Island Coffee with a flourless chocolate cake for dessert. Tom enjoyed freshly-backed scones with clotted cream and jam which I imagine is also served during the restaurant's afternoon cream teas.

He and Isabel left to deal with their alarm company while Glen and I wandered the gardens for about a half hour. It costs $10 per person to view them which helps cover the maintenance costs. Apparently, in the spring, the rhododendron garden is spectacular but we saw lots of summer flowers and enjoyed the pond with its resident turtle. We also saw a Spotted Towhee and Chestnut-backed Chickadee. An Anna's Hummingbird came to the feeder outside the dining room.

Week One in Victoria

The trip from Seattle was uneventful. We made the border crossing with ease and caught the noon ferry to Swartz Bay. We bought some groceries and prepared for the arrival of our venetian blinds. I'd received an email from the lady at Sears saying they would be delivered via Purolator and after checking the tracking number, we learned they'd arrive in Victoria the day after we did. Good thing, too as it was very hot and having window coverings to block the sun was the best way of cooling the condo.

Glen and I spent Friday in the condo doing laundry and hanging blinds. It was so nice not to drive anywhere. Saturday we walked to Willows Beach. Mt. Baker was the clearest I've ever seen it and the beach was awash of half-naked bodies enjoying the sun and little ones playing in the sand and water. The excitement of our walk was when two young bucks crossed Cordova Bay Road near Safeway and headed into a senior's residence. They didn't seem too perturbed about the traffic swerving around them.

Sunday found us smacking balls at the Mt. Doug driving range. We had to re-learn the clubs we use here and I must say when I connected with one of my irons, it slammed my hand pretty hard. We might have to buy new clubs next year as these are obviously old technology.

Monday, we walked downtown to do some banking and get Glen some cigars. He wanted to try a brand he'd read about called 'Cohiba'. Apparently, they were Fidel Castro's favourite and exclusive cigars. We decided to check out a cigar store on Fort St. called, what else? The Cuban Cigar Store. It is a wonderful place with more than just cigars.

We were meeting our friends, Iain and Janet, for lunch at Pescatores. I've blogged about this restaurant before and suffice to say, it is still good. I had a dozen raw oysters this time (6 different varieties). I have no idea which were which but they all had different flavours and textures.

Tuesday, we were up early to golf at Mt. Douglas Golf Course. We arrived just as Iain and his friend, Richard, finished their round (obviously very early risers). Iain had never played the course and acknowledge the greens were challenging. Our golf partners were two retirees from the prairies, Ted, originally from Regina, and Doug, from Calgary (close to where we used to live when Glen did his postdoc in the '80s). Ted was an excellent golfer but neither man took the game seriously. Doug said they allowed a mulligan on every hole.

Glen's game finally came together but I struggled with my putting. Ted did say I had a lovely swing which was flattering since I've worked so hard to make it so.

Wednesday, we met Diane at Swan Lake for her birding walk. This time there were more men so Glen didn't feel like a fish out of water. We didn't see as many birds but the walk and the talk were enjoyable. We spent the rest of the day enjoying a lovely lunch on Diane and Tony's deck and listening to all their renovation stories. Having 'been there, done that', we could easily relate.

Thursday, we played The Ridge Par 3 course and even though I was still fighting my putter, I had my best score ever. I also plopped it on the green on their signature hole #6, a feat Glen has yet to accomplish. On the way home, we stopped in at Home Depot to pick up two pots. One to act as a pedestal for our small fountain and the other to become a herb garden. After lunch we walked to Gardenworks on Oak Bay Ave and bought basil, chives, and cilantro. It is so nice having greenery in the condo.

Friday, we shopped Sears for clothes so that was a pretty mundane day.

Saturday we were up early to get Diane and Tony then catch the 8:30 am ferry to Salt Spring Island. It was market day in Ganges and the whole island turned out to either buy or sell. We wandered the market buying bread, cheese, and broad beans. And not unlike his Dad, Glen met someone he knew. Well, I knew them, too, so it was a nice mini-reunion with Hans and Sharon in the middle of the market. We then had coffee at TJ Beans before hitting the regular Ganges shops. I bought Xmas presents and stocking stuffers. On the way back to the van, we stopped at a fish store and got a lovely salmon for supper. After stashing our purchases (Diane bought cut flowers that we hoped would not wilt in the heat), we headed to the Oystercatcher Restaurant for lunch. Their Slipstone beers are good and on such a warm day, very refreshing. The service was very slow--add market day to island time and you have a recipe for a very long lunch. The mussels I had were good but not fantastic but Glen and Diane said the lamb burgers were delicious. Tony's fish was dry but he liked his chips so I guess there were pluses and minuses to our lunch.

Afterwards we took a detour on the way to the ferry and drove up Mt. Maxwell, the mountain in the centre of Salt Spring Island. The paved road soon gives way to a very bumpy dirt one but the views at the top are worth the effort to reach the look-off.

We had a quick coffee in Fulford Harbour then boarded the ferry. I was suffering from too much sun so rested in the van while the others enjoyed the sights from the ferry. Diane was thrilled to see an unusual bird called a pigeon guillemot.

Today, we returned to Diane's house as she wanted me to have her old mountain bike. Tony was pleased to get rid of one of their 5 bikes as it was taking up room in his garage. Tomorrow, we plan to buy bike helmets so we can maybe ride the Galloping Goose trail. Afterwards we played 36 holes on The Ridge's putting green. Slowly, I'm improving my short game.

Day Twelve - The Weedle on the Needle

We drove into Washington the next day and landed smack dab in wine country. I had hoped to see fields of onions since we were near Walla Walla, but the closest I came to that was a semi with an open cargo of golden onions. Hundreds of vineyards dot the Columbia River valley and I gave up writing down all their names. Apparently wine is a $3 billion industry for the state which doesn't include the tourism dollars spent exploring the region.

Another product of this area is hops and most are grown along the Yakima River. We saw the vines and instantly recognized them. I had often wondered where North American breweries bought their hops so now I know. The valley has 75% of the U.S. hops acreage and 2/3 of the crop is exported around the globe.

We couldn't linger in the area to explore as we wanted to reach Seattle by noon. Just north of Yakima, we left the I-82 which we began at the Oregon-Washington border. This road merged into the I-90 (this was the highway we drove from Butte to Billings, Montana). In Seattle, the I-90 highway meets the I-5 which travels from the Canadian border to Mexico. I had detailed instructions on how to reach our hotel, the Best Western Pioneer Square so we peeled off the I-5 at James Street and were there within minutes.

We were too early to check into this Victorian-style boutique hotel but the desk clerk directed us to the parking garage so we didn't have to park on the street. We'd had a quick lunch outside of Seattle so once parked and our bags stashed at the hotel, we walked down to the waterfront. The hotel is a block away from the ferry terminal and even closer to the refurbished historical district of Pioneer Square.

The area was reminiscent of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco and Seattle's steep hills added to this impression. We wandered past restaurants, harbour tours, and shops until we came to Pike Street. Glen has always wanted me to see the Pike Place Market so that was our destination. We also wanted to check out the various seafood restaurants as possible dining places. Pike Place Market did not disappoint with a variety of booths selling everything from photographs to fish. The seafood displays fascinated me but we didn't see anyone throwing fish for which the fish mongers are famous. I guess that happens earlier in the day when they are setting up their wares.

In our search for a WiFi signal, we came upon the first Starbucks store (actually, it was the second version of the first store), a tiny place across from the market. A couple of folksingers entertained outside. The shop was packed with a line-up down the block so we decided to go to a place we'd seen on the waterfront. After a lovely iced Chai tea latté (me) and plain coffee (Glen), we headed back to the hotel for a shower and check of email, etc. Our room was huge with a king size bed and two large, old fashioned wardrobes--one for clothes, the other for the TV set. The bathroom fixtures were gold-plated and the shower stall of modern design. Our view was of the building next door but we had been in hotels like this in other large cities so weren't upset we couldn't see the harbour.

Dinner found us at Fisherman's Restaurant on the waterfront. We wanted to sit outside on their large patio and the hostess led us to a place where I could be in the shade of their bright blue umbrellas. Glen and I each enjoyed an appetizer of six Northwest Oysters on the half shell. It left us wanting more so Glen ordered swordfish and I had salmon. We enjoyed a couple of glasses of Old Seattle Lager while waiting for our meals. The servings were huge so I was stuffed by the end of dinner but Glen was game for dessert. The strawberry shortcake was the largest I've ever seen. He managed to 'choke' it down then we waddled back to the hotel.

I chose the title 'The Weedle on the Needle' for my blog as homage to Stephen Cosgrove who wrote a book with the same title in 1974. We had bought it for Geoff when he was young, probably around 1978 or '79. It's about a creature called the Weedle who ends up living on the Seattle Space Needle. The books ends with the poem:

There's a Weedle

On the Needle

I know just what

You're thinking

But if you look up

Late at night

You'll see

His red nose blinking.

Day Eleven - Along the Oregon Trail

We began our day driving past Great Salt Lake and seeing the white deposits of salt left behind as water levels receded after the spring run-off. Apparently, Jim Bridger (see my 'Day Ten' post) was one of the first Europeans to see the lake and thought it was an arm of the Pacific Ocean.

At our first rest stop on the I-84 North, we realized we followed the same route the pioneers took as they traveled through Oregon Territory on their way to the west coast. This land would eventually become the states of Washington, Idaho, and Oregon. We soon crossed into Idaho and saw the potato farms for which the state is famous. Most were irrigated and the surrounding land was still sagebrush country.

After our picnic lunch of Roosters' leftovers, we began seeing signs for Ontario, Oregon. We didn't see the Zinnia flowers that are their claim to fame but the land was fertile and well farmed. The area was first explored by Peter Skene Ogden, a Hudson's Bay Company trader born in Quebec and the person for whom Ogden, Utah (where we had spent the previous night) was named. He also explored the Snake River which the highway followed as it meandered through the three states.

Glen had hoped to stay in Yakima, Washington because Geoff had bought a Yakima to store his camping gear and when we travelled with him, we knew his SUV by its Yakima. We took to calling him 'Yakima Boy'. However, it was late afternoon when we reached Pendleton, Oregon and decided to call it a day there instead.

The main road through the town was chewed up in preparation for paving so it was a bumpy ride trying to find a hotel. I finally spotted an America's Best Value Inn with a AAA recommendation so we pulled in there. Originally built in 1968, it was an old style motel and even smelled like the motel rooms of my youth. It had Internet service but that didn't work so for one brief moment we were out of contact with the outside world. The room rate was $73 which included a hot breakfast so was indeed the best value we had encountered on our trip.

The friendly desk clerk gave us a list of local restaurants and we chose a bar call Crabbys Underground Saloon. Little did we know this was a cowboy town and during their Round-Up, many cowboys from Alberta compete for local prize money. We met the cook at the door and he recommended his French Dip. After quaffing a couple of glasses of a local beer called Mirror Pond Pale Ale, we indulged in his excellent French Dip sandwich. I had it with a salad that was a meal in itself with lots of veggies and cheese. Later, the cook came over to see how we liked it (the place was not busy but apparently it's standing room only during September's Round-Up). He told us he made it with prime rib shaved thin that was leftover from their prime rib special nights.

Day Ten - Back to Wyoming

Due to Glen's 'Interstates only' edict, we did not cut across Colorado following the minor highways with speed limits of less than 75 mph that wound through the mountains. Instead, we headed north to Cheyenne, Wyoming to go west along the I-80 or the Dwight D. Eisenhower Memorial Highway. Thrilled with this decision, I drank in the landscape that could both excite and frighten.

We had a picnic lunch a rest stop near Elk Mountain which lies in the Medicine Bow range and learned that over 100 wind turbines dot the area. It was so windy, in fact, that we ate in the car. Glen said some pretty fierce gusts almost tore the steering wheel from his hands as we were driving. The trucks barreling down the highway swayed with the force of the wind.

In my photo of Elk Mountain, one can see a substantial snow fence in the foreground. These permanent structures were evident along all the highways we traversed in Wyoming. Not only do they prevent snow and ice from clogging the roadways, they also acted as a trap for moisture promoting pasture growth. They are angled to prevent cattle rubbing against them and stand about a meter and a half high (about 5 feet).

After eating lunch, I realized the rest stop was also a prairie dog community. These large rodents were so used to people we didn't hear their characteristic 'bark'. Alberta has a few prairie dog colonies but most gopher-like rodents in the province are Richardson's ground squirrels.

In the southwest corner of Wyoming, we entered an area of fascinating red rock formations. Here Jim Bridger and his friend Louis Vasquez built a fort to trade with the 'Indians' and those people using the Oregon Trail to settle the west. He had a disagreement with Brigham Young (an Indian agent at the time) and soon lost Fort Bridger to the Mormons. Due to time restraints we could not visit the fort but it was in a lovely piece of Wyoming.

Late in the afternoon we left the state (and the I-80) behind and entered Utah. Our destination was the town of Ogden about 25 miles north of Salt Lake City. We arrived tired, hungry, and thirsty. The Best Western Canyon Pines was a new hotel on the outskirts of town and when we went in search of a restaurant, we soon discovered that only the downtown establishments served beer. A young girl at one place suggested a brew pub in a funky area of town and gave us detailed directions on how to get there.

Glen was thrilled to learn Roosters Brewing Company made Polygamy Pale Ale which he had enjoyed in Salt Lake City 5 years ago. It also had a lovely restaurant with a great patio. It was hot so we appreciated the linen awnings draped between the buildings to shade the dining area. Glen and I shared an artichoke, crab, and spinach dip with homemade bread called 'What a Crock' then I had Baked Chicken Milano and Glen enjoyed the Flat Iron Steak. We also indulged in their special, summer beer called Mock Lager, I think. Their servings were huge (I had two whole chicken breasts on a mound of mashed potatoes) so we couldn't finish our meals. Our waitress boxed up our leftovers and we ate them the next day as a picnic lunch.

Day Seven, Eight and Nine - Aurora, Colorado

Anyone who has been camping knows the day after is filled with doing piles of dirty laundry, airing tents and sleeping bags, and stowing gear for the next trip. Add to that getting groceries, beer, and flags for a Fourth of July barbecue and our Aurora weekend was busy indeed. We also made trips to REI and Target.

The kids and Grampy spent most of the time playing in the backyard. Elijah and Miles loved the old Fisher-Price truck, bulldozer, and roller that had once been their father's. Yes, I kept them for 30 years in anticipation of grandkids. At that time, Fisher-Price made toys to last. After many years of resting in the garage, it was good to see them played with again.

Geoff and Melissa were to greet at their church on Sunday so with flags in hand, they left us to follow later. We didn't get lost as we'd been there before. Elijah met us, greeting us and others with the phrase, "Happy American church!". We all knew what he meant. During Sunday school they drew a picture of the fourth of July and his featured fireworks and a Canadian flag! He is definitely a lad of two cultures.

The kids spent the afternoon playing with their water pistols, Grampy being the one doing loading. Funnily enough, no one got wet. Geoff grilled our steaks to perfection and we consumed good Colorado beer in celebration of the birth of the United States of America.

Day Six - Boulder, Colorado

You know you are in Boulder, Colorado when you see a man in a tie-dyed shirt, wearing Birkenstock sandals, and having his grey hair pulled back into a pony tail. The town moves to the beat of a different drum but slowly its hippy nature is washing away as young professionals move into the area.

After packing up our campsite and saying goodbye to Mr. Bill, we left Rocky Mountain Park and headed to Boulder so Geoff could do a couple of hours work while we had lunch and mooched around the 29th Street Shopping Centre. But our first stop was the Red Rose Rock Shop outside of Estes Park. Because the boys had behaved themselves while we broke camp, they could have a bag of rocks each. Best bargain for a buck this side of a dollar store. The shop itself was an incredible place for anyone who loves rocks. Along the river are huge bins filled with boulders while inside are smaller varieties. One room is devoted to Colorado stones-- some polished, some rough.

Being in two cars without cell phones proved to be a challenge when we lost Geoff as we followed him to Boulder. Fortunately, we found our way to the shopping centre and parked near a store I recognized (having been there once before). Melissa was waiting for us.

Geoff grabbed a sandwich at Panera Bread but the line-up was long so we decided to eat at Islands Restaurant. I enjoyed a great vegetarian taco while Miles had a hot dog and Elijah ate macaroni. They did an activities booklet while we waited for our food. The air conditioning was nice since the day was hot.

The boys then had fun at the centre's playground after which we did a little shopping before heading to Peet's for coffee. By this time, Geoff was finished his work and wanted us to pick him up. Melissa said the directions were too complicated so we followed her out of the parking lot then immediately lost her at the first light.

So there we were in the middle of Boulder with no phones or directions on how to reach Geoff. We decided the best thing to do was to head back to Denver. We circled around until we found the main highway then followed it out of town. When we reached Denver, we hauled out the directions Geoff had originally given us and used that route to find our way to Aurora. It was quite the adventure but we managed to arrive about a half hour after Geoff.

That evening, he and Melissa treated us to a wonderful meal at P.F. Changs. They have fantastic Chinese food and we ended up with several boxes of leftovers. I enjoyed their hot and sour soup while everyone else had won ton. Melissa wanted to try the lettuce wraps and they were an unique tasty treat. Changs' stir-fry eggplant dish was not too spicy and went well with the Singapore street noodles. Their lemon chicken was very tangy and a good compliment to Melissa's favourite of Mongolian beef. Elijah and Miles enjoyed chicken fried rice and Baby Buddha's feast (vegetables) stir-fried. Of course, we finished with fortune cookies. The highlight for any beer drinker was their Tsingtao Lager which was served in a litre bottle.

Day Five - Estes Park

Estes Park is famous for many things, one being the Stanley Hotel where Stephen King stayed and was inspired to write his novel, The Shining. The other is its spectacular Rocky Mountain scenery with the Big Thompson River rushing past a river walk that features boutiques, cafés, and restaurants.

We had visited Estes Park in the past but never in the summer. We were delighted with the transformation of a ski town into one catering to summer visitors. The town was festooned with flowers and the green areas were oases among the bustle of shops. Melissa wanted to check out several stores but we stopped to have coffee and treats at Kind Coffee first.

After a stroll along the river, a brief pause at the playground was followed by shopping the main street. Another snack got Elijah and Miles back to the playground while Glen, Geoff, and I went into the local winery, The Valley of the Wind, to do a tasting. We knew we would buy wine there but the lady insisted we try a variety of types. We ended up liking the Grizzly Bear Syrah and the Roaring River Red. Geoff also bought a bottle of their Riesling for Melissa.

The boys had had enough of the playground by the time we finished so we walked to our favourite family restaurant, Poppy's. I had their Mediterranean Pizza although I could have created my own pizza from a variety of sauces and toppings. The boys had grilled cheese with carrots from the children's menu while Glen and Geoff ordered the Classic Reuben sandwich.

We had planned going to a large rock shop just outside of town but due to the misbehaviour of Elijah and Miles, this plan was abandoned. Instead, we headed back to the campsite where pork chops were for dinner.

Day Four - Intrepid Hikers

The next day, we were anxious to hike the many trails around the campsite but little legs had to be factored into any walk so we settled on the Lily Lake loop. From the map, it looked to be an easy mile around the shoreline. We drove to the trail head. This is a popular hike for those who like an easy walk rather than slogging up mountain trails. There were several families enjoying this Rocky Mountain experience.

Lily Lake is a 'catch and release' fishing site but the season begins July 1st so there were no fishermen on this day. The information posted at the trail head promised lovely wildflowers in the spring and it didn't disappoint. We saw columbines, lilies (of course), snapdragons, and many I could not identify.

The trail began by crossing a small bridge then it forked. Geoff immediately veered right, up a rocky trail that dove into the hills surrounding the lake. Glen's credo of always taking the high road must have sunk into Geoff's psyche at sometime. Sweeping views of the lake and surrounding mountains made the climb rewarding. Elijah and Miles scrambled over the rocks and seemed to enjoy the hike but that would not last. Hey, all kids are the same and soon the whining began. It reminded me of all the hikes we did when our kids were young.

We quickly descended the hills and wandered along the edge of the lake seeing ducks and a hummingbird. Several birding couples passed us so it must also offer a chance to spot local birdlife. By this time, though, the boys rebelled and were not happy with the heat or the walking so it was good the parking lot wasn't far. Just around the next bend, as Glen has often said in the past.

Napping was the plan for the afternoon so the boys laughed and giggled in the tent while Melissa and I chatted (they did sleep eventually). Glen and Geoff had not had enough walking so they did a hike to an abandoned mine. I told Glen to take pictures so I could see what it was like but it turned out to be very disappointing so no photos were taken.

We ended the day with bison burgers and all the fixings.

Day Three - Colorado Rocky Mountain High

Not ones to let grass grow under our feet, we were off on another adventure three days after leaving Calgary. We headed back up the I-25, took the turn off to Lyons, Colorado, and headed down Route 36 to Estes Park. We had been here before on a day trip but Melissa had found a campsite where we could stay and enjoy nearby Rocky Mountain National Park.

It was a small (26 sites), tents-only, campground designed as a base camp for those wishing to climb Longs Peak (14,259 ft or 4346 m). The campground's elevation was 9500 ft (2895 m) so we definitely experienced a Rocky Mountain high.

After getting settled with tents erected, Geoff went off on a trail run to Chasm Lake which he described as spectacular. Glen, Melissa, and I played with the kids and enjoyed the warm sunshine. Anyone who knows how Armstrongs camp will realize there is something wrong with the picture heading this page. Yes, no rain is falling. We did get some rain but just a few light showers in the evening that did nothing to wet down the dust.

A unique feature of this campground was Mr. Bill, a very friendly volunteer camp host from Oregon. His granddaughters lived in Estes Park so by staying in his motorhome at the campground, he could visit them and meet and greet everyone who came to enjoy the mountain experience. Miles and Elijah took to Bill like ducks to water and he loved having them around. He really did make our stay pleasant.

Geoff was the campfire king and even attempted to light his fire-sticks using flint. This came close to working but we all wanted the fire sooner rather than later so a single match lit it. Wood could be bought every evening for $4 a bundle so we got 5 bundles so we'd not run out should the weather turn nasty. After a great supper of chicken fajitas (Armstrong camp meals are legendary), we roasted marshmallows. I had my first S'more of marshmallows and chocolate layered between graham crakers (the first recipe for s'mores appears in a 1927 Girl Scout cookbook). I am not a sweet tooth so this was just too much sweetness for me. Glen ate what I couldn't.

Day Two - Where the Deer and the Antelope Play

We left Billings knowing the first leg of our journey would only be an hour. Glen has always wanted to see the Little Big Horn Battlefield where Lt. Col George Armstrong Custer and the 7th Calvary lost their battle with warriors of the Lakota and Cheyenne tribes under Chief Tatanka-iyotanka (Sitting Bull) on June 25th, 1876. The historic site was on the road we would take into Wyoming so stopping to experience the history was a viable option. Ironically, we missed the anniversary of the battle by 2 days so didn't see the reenactment.

Since the 1990s, the Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument has been modified to reflect the history of both sides rather than just the 'white man's' point of view. There are red granite grave markers to honour fallen native warriors among the white marble ones originally erected to show where Calvary men fell. The Spirit Warriors monument to native American losses now stands near one to fallen U.S. soldiers on Last Stand Hill. There was a small museum of artifacts at the site but walking up Last Stand Hill past the gravestone markers was a more moving experience. The meadow was awash with colourful wild flowers and the grass a verdant green. A friendly ranger remarked that a couple of days of 90 degree heat would soon paint the hillside brown.

After spending an hour at the site, we headed south. I had heard Wyoming was a lonely land but wasn't prepared for the total lack of human habitation. Except for the highway, fences, and the odd wind farm with giant turbines, the countryside was rolling green hills under a crystal blue sky. We saw hundreds of pronghorn antelope and many deer. Cattle did range the land and some vistas were reminiscent of a Zane Grey novel with the grey-green sagebrush softening the browns of rocky outcrops and coulees.

The population of this large state is only 575,000 so no wonder you can drive for miles without seeing a single ranch or town. The rest stops were further apart too, but I loved Wyoming. I felt I could breathe here and experience true freedom. I'd have to learn how to ride a horse, of course, and deal with rattlesnakes, I'm sure, but to live in such a wide open space would compensate for that.

At the town of Buffalo, we changed to the I-25 highway which would take us to Denver. It veered east at Casper then headed south to Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming. The drive was a delight according to Glen as everyone kept to the speed limit and were polite if you chose to pass by slowing down to let you do so. State troopers pulled several out-of-state cars over for speeding so they are strict with enforcement.

When we hit the Colorado state line, the traffic doubled and it was like driving in Calgary again. We got stopped by an accident outside of Fort Collins so didn't arrive at Geoff's place until 6:30 pm. They had just finished supper and so lingered while we ate ours. It was great seeing the grandmonkeys again. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly they grow.

Road Trip

We are now settled in Victoria so I can sit down and write about our road trip. It has been years, sixteen to be exact, since we have done a trip that required more than two days driving. In total, we put 4500 kms on the Ion travelling from Calgary to Denver to Victoria. We saw some great scenery and came to appreciated the beauty of the western states.

Day One: God's Country

Many years ago when I worked at Agriculture Canada in Ottawa, Ontario, the scientist who headed the sheep nutrition program, told me that Montana was God's Country. I had never heard the expression before and have since felt it could apply to any of the many places I've visited. We had been to Montana about 20 years ago, seeing the rolling mountains of the Bitterroot Range but it didn't strike me as a place someone would swear was God's Country.

On June 26th at 6:30 am, we headed south from Calgary via Lethbridge to enter Montana at Coutts. We had seen two pronghorn antelope very close to the highway on our drive through Alberta which I thought bode well for our trip. We only waited about ten minutes at the border as US customs agents examined vehicles. I was asked what I did for a living which floored me since I can't say I do anything. I muttered something about being a writer and a housewife which satisfied the man. Before leaving, we had emptied our fridge so had a cooler full of beer but even though they asked Glen to pop the trunk, they didn't actually look inside.

It was a gorgeous day for a drive but the temperatures rose as we travelled south. We hoped to make Billings by evening which would mean 12 hours on the road. Our first stop was a rest stop on the Whoop Up trail and were warned to stay on the path because of rattlesnakes. I reminded Glen this area was featured in the book, The Englishman's Boy by Guy Vanderhaeghe. We soon learned that rest stops on the Interstates were about an hour apart so convenient for taking time to stretch legs and empty bladders.

The rolling prairie that Montana shares with Alberta changed as soon as the Missouri River sliced the landscape near Great Falls. Here we entered fantastic canyons cut in red rock and weathered into wonderful shapes. Dotting the river were fishermen in unusual, dory-like boats and lush vegetation surrounded us. God's Country, for sure, as we passed through the state capital of Helena and onto to Butte. Here we left Interstate 15 and headed east on I-90. Glen had declared my original route that cut across the state would mean he'd have to leave the double-lane interstate which made driving enjoyable. It probably would have meant the same number of hours on the road so I agreed.

We left the Missouri Valley behind and crossed the state through prairie rangeland. Not as populated as Alberta, Montana does seem rather more desolate than Canadian prairie. Its population of about a million people is concentrated mostly in its towns.

We reached Billings at 6:30 pm and like Mary and Jesus, found there was no room at the inn of our choice. Fortunately, the Sleep Inn next door had a room to our liking with a buffet breakfast included. It was not cheap but we were tired and ready for supper. The young desk clerk recommended a local Irish/sports pub for supper and she did not steer us wrong.

After settling in, we walked the two blocks to the pub housed in what looked like an office building. The Fiddler's Green had a great atmosphere, cold beer, and terrific food. What more could you ask after a long day's drive? Glen and I ordered pizza, he a pepperoni and me a vegetarian. We exchanged a couple of pieces to have a balanced meal and washed it down with a pitcher of Fat Tire beer.