Mardi Gras Tips

1) Do not buy beads unless you want something fancy to wear. You will get tons of beads or 'throws' as the natives call them.

2) Do not wear white. It will not stay that way long. The streets are dirty with discarded beads, plastic bags, beer cups, etc. Most wear jeans and old clothing.

3) Be prepared for cold weather. New Orleans is south of the Mason-Dixon line but Mardi Gras is usually in February. Dress in layers as the wind off the river can be chilly.

4) Bring a folding chair if you cannot stand for hours on end.

5) Have a hotel within walking distance of the parade route. The parades do not go through the French Quarter. Hotels along St. Charles Ave have viewing stands for their patrons.

6) Be adventurous and try new foods, New Orleans has some incredible dining experiences like: Beignets (fried dough) at Café du Monde, Muffaletta sandwiches at Central Grocery Store, Cajun cooking at Mulates, Hurricanes at Pat O'Briens, great beer and jazz at Crescent City Brewhouse. I've tried them all and want to go back for more.

7) Be prepared to enjoy southern hospitality. Everyone is there for a good time and want you to enjoy their special party.

8) Most recommend visiting New Orleans before seeing it during Mardi Gras.

9) Ash Wednesday does not end the partying in New Orleans. St. Patrick's day, March 17th, is the next big party as many Irish settled the area in the 1700s.

10) Bring an extra suitcase as you will return with many souvenirs.

Ash Wednesday

Today was quiet in New Orleans. The crowds were gone, the State holiday over, and most were nursing weekend-long hangovers. Not us, though. We were up and packed so we could do a final walk along the Mississippi River. We passed workers dismantling the Spanish Plaza stages and the Lundi Gras tents. We watched the ferry crossing the river by going upstream then letting the strong current take it to the dock on the opposite bank. Joggers ran by tourists like us, enjoying New Orleans without the madness of Mardi Gras. It had been a fantastic time but now was the time to repent.

We left the hotel before noon to catch our 2:30 flight. The trip that took two hours on Friday took 20 minutes. We reached the gate only to be told our luggage was overweight. I had tried to distribute the beads among our bags but our carry-on could hold only so much. And of course, some of the coconuts had not been emptied of their milk.

During the parades, those on the floats would toss out their empty bags so people could stash their beads. We unpacked one of these and filled it with 10 pounds of beads. This brought our suitcase down to 45 pounds so we didn't have to pay $125 extra. I have never unpacked a suitcase in an airport before but then, I have never brought home so many souvenirs.

We weren't the only ones dragging our beads onto the plane in a parade bag. In the States, you are allowed one carry-on and one purse/briefcase/laptop bag. Not sure we'd have been able to fly into the States with three pieces of carry-on.

Our trip home was uneventful except we were carded in the Denver airport bar where we had supper. We sat beside another white-haired couple and had a good laugh over it. They were from Washington, D.C. so had some snow stories to tell.

Our plane was delayed leaving Denver as we waited for 20 passengers from Orlando. We had not been seated together but another couple had suffered the same fate so we just changed places. The line-up at customs was horrendous and we always pick the worse line. We were the last to leave the customs area. The questions the woman asked us were pretty funny.

Why were you in New Orleans? Mardi Gras. Where did you stay? Courtyard by Marriot. Did you bring back anything? Beads--tons of beads.

The look she gave us led us to believe she had no idea what we were talking about.

As I predicted, our luggage was not on the carousel when we arrived. I swear Calgary is the slowest airport to off-load its baggage. But, we were home by midnight so I guess that was something and the coconuts came home in one piece. The pralines did not.

Zulu Queen

The days leading up to Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday, are wild but on the day itself, New Orleans goes nuts. And it all begins very early in the morning. Some never actually go to bed the night before.

Our hotel was ten minutes away from the parade route so our alarm didn't go off as early as some. By eight, we were shivering on the sidewalk. A couple of young men set up their chairs and ladders (young children sit in special boxes affixed to the ladders), staking a claim for their families who would arrive later. They kindly let us use their chairs while we waited. Some parade watchers had camped overnight so had the best spots next to the barricades. At around 8:45, one of these groups asked us how lucky we felt then gave up enough room for us and another couple (from Florida) to have front row positions. Not long after a woman asked if she could squeeze between us as she was short. We let her not knowing she was a former Zulu Queen.

We were at the barricades early because our friend, Joe and his son, Matt were

walking the parade with Pete Fountain, a famous clarinet player and his Half-Fast Walking Club. It was the club's 50th anniversary of walking on Mardi Gras day and no one was doing it sober. Joe was very generous with his white and gold beads so we spread the wealth giving some to our barricade buddies and the little kids behind us.

The Krewe of Zulu parade began around nine with the King's float festooned with colourful feathers. The most coveted items gently tossed or passed from the Zulu floats are decorated coconuts. This is when we learned of the power of the Zulu Queen. She knew many on the floats and her gold jacket alerted others to her status as a former queen. She was given more beads, gifts of stuffed animals, coconuts, cloth roses, and frisbees. It was her mother's first Mardi Gras so she often got special gifts as well. Lisa was generous with her barricade buddies and we happily shared her wealth.

Glen actually did catch a coconut on his own. Because he wore his Saints hat, a Zulu gave him a coconut painted with Who Dat! Later, we learned Joe's son, Joey, had only ever caught one coconut in all the years he'd watched the parade. We ended up with five! I even caught a special nerf football emblazoned with the Zulu logos. Many of the special beads we caught had medallions celebrating 100 years of the Zulu parade (1909 - 2009).

One of the oldest Mardi Gras parades is Rex, founded in 1872. Like the Zulu parade, it had over 40 floats with high school bands playing between them. We watched the parade on TV while eating lunch since after standing for 4 hours, we were exhausted and had left the Zulu parade early. Glen had a 'make-your-own' Calzone and I had a Margaritis pizza in a little restaurant near our hotel called the Pie Pizza and Pastas.

Bernie called us and we met her and a very tired Joe at 2:00 p.m. We headed into the Quarter which was awash with people in fantastic costumes. Joey was dressed as a clown while Matt's girlfriend wore an outfit from the 50's to match his 'walking' costume. Bernie wanted us to see her friend's condo which was in an old style New Orleans home. We battled the hordes of people on Bourbon Street vying for beads thrown from the balconies of the hotels and taverns. Apparently, it took two hours to walk a single block, there were so many people. We had to weave across the street so did not get caught up in the madness.

The condo was a haven of calm even though it was full of a family making merry. No street noise penetrated the house. We had a beer in the kitchen/living room which was the kitchen of the orignial 'town' house. The woman who built it had a plantation, Chrétien Point, up the Mississippi River and used this town house during the winter 'season'. Upstairs, we viewed a renovated condo where the slaves used to live.

By this time, Joe was exhausted. He had been up since 4 a.m. and had walked for hours. We left them to head home while we went back to our hotel. After spending some time relaxing, we headed out to have oysters for supper. We couldn't believe that most of the restaurants in the area were closed. The ones close to the Quarter were open but line-ups were long. We gave up on oysters and ended up back at Gordon Biersch. We shared a lobster and crab cake, then I had pecan-covered chicken breasts while Glen had lobster Mac 'N Cheese. Both were delicious but mine was too much food. Glen had an ice cream brownie for dessert and declared it wonderful.

Afterwards we headed for some fun at Harrah's Casino next door. It was here, years ago, I won $2.50 and felt on top of the world. Since then I have learned that video poker is my game and so was disappointed when we passed hundreds of slot machines in the casino. Finally, we found a 25 cent/play Black Jack machine and Glen played for awhile. He won $30 on a $10 bet so was pretty happy to cash out. We wandered through the casino trying to find our way out when I spotted some 25 cent/play video poker machines. These were different from what I played in Vegas so it took me a bit to get used to them. I won $70 on a $20 bet. Our winnings covered the cost of our meal so that's when we stopped.

Lundi Gras

Lundi Gras is the calm before the storm. There are no day parades and everyone is pretty much taking it easy. We met Bernie and her son at their hotel in the Quarter. She whipped up a Bloody Mary so we could drink while walking. She used a mix called Zing Zang which tasted much like a Caesar.

We walked through the Quarter arriving at Stanley's for brunch. While Joey waited for our name to be called, we wandered around Jackson Square. We ate Eggs Stanley which were eggs benedict served with fried oysters. Joey hit the jackpot, getting several small pearls.

We then stopped at Pat O'Brien's for their famous Hurricanes. Yes, more walking drinks. Glen stayed with beer but I enjoyed the citrusy drink. As we left the Quarter, we heard the durge played at jazz funerals so stopped to listen to the band playing. They were excellent. We then headed to the walk along the Mississippi River and took in a wonderful show of New Orleans music by the Charmaine Neville band. Bernie and I danced with some others and I was high-fived by a black woman so I must have the spirit of jazz.

At Spanish Square on the RiverWalk, we waited for the meeting of the Zulus and King Rex, both coming by river to New Orleans. Each group has Mardi Gras parades held on Fat Tuesday. After they arrived, we enjoyed spectacular fireworks. As we sat waiting for the show to begin we chatted with some young oil workers from southern Louisiana and a New Orleans couple our age. We had brought beer with us so share with our new friends. When the fireworks were over, I realized I was hungry. It was 8:00 and I hadn't eaten since noon.

We got back to our hotel and then ate at Mulates again. This time we had blacken catfish and grilled shrimp. I got back to the room and collapsed while Glen headed downstairs to watch the Orpheus parade which was passing by our hotel. Melissa had told us Elijah and Mile's favourite singers the Imagination Movers would be in this parade which was begun by Harry Connick Jr. Glen scored beads from one the Movers, Rich, when he made a big show of being a fan. I was asleep when he came back very excited about the beads. Oh, and he saw Harry, too.

Mardi Gras, Trois

Another day with more parades and more beads. Why do we still try and catch them, I ask myself? Who knows but even the natives vie for beads and according to our friend, Bernie, they had attics full of them. Some are recycled but kids love to keep theirs forever.

We saw the Knights of Babylon parade which had been rained out so was jammed into a spot on Sunday morning. Their bands were in another parade so we enjoyed the floats which had a mask theme. Fantastic costumes, too. We got a slew of plastic cups and Glen also caught a nerf football.

We had bought Glen a 'Saints' hat so he is always the centre of attention. Everyone loves his alligator hat but if he wears the Saints cap, they cry Who Dat! New Orleans is still celebrating the Superbowl win.

We had lunch at Gordon Biersch which was super busy so we waited for a table. While we did so a pipe band, which had played in the parade, marched through the restaurant. Glen had a crab cake sandwich and finally found the crab cake he's been searching for. I had shrimp and lobster tacos which were excellent.

Afterwards we watched the Thoth parade and guess what? We go more beads! We saw the tail end of the parade so watched how they split the floats from the marching bands. The staging area for the floats is close to our hotel so we saw many comings and goings. We actually saw the Bacchus floats before they began their evening parade.

We met up with Bernie at Drago's restaurant and shared a feast of raw oysters before having their famous charbroiled ones for our main course. We then walked to the parade route and were able to meet up with Bernie's son who invited us up to a party in his friend's condo, right on St. Charles. We had brought beer so had a great time partying and watching the Bacchus parade. Glen shouted himself hoarse trying to get the young guys on the floats to toss beads up to our third floor balcony so the kids at the party could have beads. He was very successful and they were thrilled.

Mardi Gras, Deux

We slept in yesterday, catching up from our travelling day then had breakfast in our hotel. I had grits for the first time--it is sort of like cream of wheat.

We then went to the RiverWalk shopping area to see about buying some beads since everyone wears them during Mardi Gras--little did we know how easy they were to get. We went into a store I had liked the last time we were here and found the perfect hat for Glen. An alligator. I bought a mask and some earrings. We then walked into the French Quarter and bought some beads before having lunch at Crescent City Brewhouse on Decatur Street. Glen had crab cakes while I had a crab cake salad. Both were excellent. So was the beer. Because it was Mardi Gras, they had a great jazz band playing. It was so nice to see the Mississippi flowing by and hear good jazz.

We then walked down Bourbon Street which was a mass of people. Lots of beads were being tossed from the hotel balconies. Some girls bared their breasts but it was cold so most did not. We met a group of men with pink beads and I spotted an elder gent who I thought might tell me why they were pink since the Mardi Gras colours are purple, gold, and green. I thought they might have something to do with breast cancer but no. I asked if I could have one and he said I had to give him something for them. I suggested a kiss which he accepted. Glen was shocked.

Later we met a couple of locals who welcomed us with more beads. On Canal Street many folks were set up to watch a parade. Some had brought camp chairs and even old couches along with coolers filled with beer and food. We found a place where the parade turned and had a great time with a couple of women who loved Glen's hat. We scored hundreds of beads plus a plastic bag in which to carry them.

We headed back to the hotel to divest ourselves of our fortune and see if we could meet with our friend, Bernie. Turns out she was on a parade route over 10 blocks away so we decided to meet her after supper to go to the ball. Later she called to say the traffic was horrendous and so we pretty much figured the ball would be a no go. On the way to our hotel, we passed Emeril's restaurant which is on the same block as the Courtyard by Marriott.

Then we did what one is supposed to do at Mardi Gras, we drank too much. We went to Grand Isle restaurant near our hotel and had oysters on the half shell then crawfish étouffeé. We washed that down with plenty of beer then staggered back to the hotel.

Mardi Gras

We arrived in New Orleans after a long day of travel. We were up at 2:30 a.m. so we could be at U.S. customs two hours ahead. After the problem at Christmas with our flights, we wanted to be sure we would be flying. I was given an incredibly thorough pat-down where the woman felt me everywhere. I must look untrustworthy as my bag was also thoroughly searched but they did let me take everything on board that was in it.

We arrived in Denver a few minutes late and were met by Melissa, Elijah and Miles. It was so good to see them all. We had a second breakfast then did two circuits of the airport before the boys got bored. They left just before lunch and we went through security. We found a great restaurant and had some beer and sandwiches before boarding the plane for New Orleans.

It was late landing and after we got our luggage, we boarded a shuttle bus. This was a good call because it took us two hours to get to our hotel. The traffic coming into the city was horrendous then we got caught on a parade route. Our driver had to drop some people off blocks from their hotels as there was no way he could drive to them. We were lucky and got front door service. We checked in then went to Mulates for our dinner. It is Cajun food and about a block from our hotel. We started with frogs legs then Glen had grilled alligator while I had grilled catfish. It was delicious. We then went to bed at 9:30.

Golden, British Columbia

Our feet had not long been on Alberta snow when we left it for the interior of British Columbia. The license on our van (parked in Victoria, B.C.) was up for renewal and Golden, a small town near the Kicking Horse Pass, had the nearest autoplan offices. Two, in fact, across the street from each other.

Normally, when we drive the TransCanada highway on the way to Victoria, all we see are the restaurants and hotels that line the highway at Golden. The road by-passes the town leaving it to enjoy the quiet of the Columbia and Kicking Horse Rivers. But it is hardly a sleepy town. In the summer, it is a place for rafting, hiking, biking, paragliding, climbing, fishing, and golf. In the winter, skiing--both downhill and nordic, heli- and cat-skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, ice climbing, and snowmobiling bring visitors to the area. It boasts three mountain ranges (Purcells, Selkirks, and Rockies) with endless rivers, lakes and creeks.

We finished our business by 11:30 a.m. so headed down the street to find a restaurant that suited us. We stumbled upon a little bistro tucked between a tavern and retail outlet. It seemed busy and the menu looked intriguing so we entered. The Whitetooth Bistro was a small but cozy place decorated with striking art and black & white photography.

I had their delicious soup de jour which was a homemade bean and broccoli pureé topped with smoked salmon. I followed that with a Veggie Press sandwich which featured a portabello mushroom, pesto, and brie. Glen had a Beef Dip which looked like a sub stacked with meat. Coffee was almost as good as Mexican coffee and just as strong.

Although we didn't need to travel again so soon after our trip to Cancun, it was nice to do a road trip. I was able to knit but regretted forgetting my camera as the snow scenes were breathless and the frozen water falls incredible. Of course, our trip would have taken longer had I stopped to photograph these wonders.

Post Script

I forgot to add to my Mexican food blog the fact that every morning, the Hilton Hotel had a chocolate fountain at its breakfast buffet. This is a tradition dating back centuries in Mayan culture. According to National Geographic News (July 2002), there is evidence that Mayans drank chocolate as early as 500 B.C. and did so at every meal.

The modern twist in Cancun was the large pink and white marshmallows that could be dipped into the fountain. The young children at the hotel thought they had died and gone to heaven. Even a few adults dipped their fresh fruit into this velvety river of brown.

Think of this when your child or grandchild wants a 'chocolate' breakfast and perhaps tell them the origin of this wonderful treat.

Mexican Food

We have visited Mexico three times in the last 6 years and each time we get to sample regional dishes as well as those that are served everywhere in the country. In this blog entry, I thought I would explore what I like about Mexican food. Flavour immediately jumps to mind as does freshness of the fruit and vegetables. Most people think of hot peppers when speaking of Mexican cuisine but there is that and much more.

Nothing is fresher than the simple salsa that is served with Mexican tortilla chips. It uses three ingredients, tomatoes, onions, and cilantro, and yet is a burst of flavour. The chips themselves are robust and rarely salted. They are not referred to as nachos since those, though technically Mexican in origin, are more associated with Tex-Mex cuisine.

Chicken in Mexico has more flavour than I've tasted anywhere else. I'm not sure what they feed their birds but no matter how it's prepared, you soon learn what chicken is supposed to taste like. Pollo pibil, a dish where chicken is marinated in sour orange juice (they also use pork), is delicious whenever it is served and yes, I have had it for breakfast.

Often chicken is added to another breakfast dish called chilaquiles. This is made by frying leftover tortillas in oil to which one adds salsa verde, red chili, or tomato sauce. Depending on your appetite you can add eggs, chicken or pork, then cover with a white cheese like Monterey Jack or in Mexico, they most often use Oaxaca cheese.

Another dish using this stringy, mozzarella-like cheese is one in which they stuff it into poblano chile peppers. I enjoyed this as an appetizer in the Casa Natalia in San Juan del Cabo.

Of course, tortillas are a staple in Mexican cooking but I don't think I've had the same kind twice. Some are much like what we can buy in Canada but others are almost doughy in nature and reminds one more of pita bread. Initially, the corn is soaked in lime water which releases niacin and tryptophan and allows for the removal of the skin of the corn kernels then it is ground and pre-cooked before kneading into a dough. This pressed flat into cakes and fried on a hot griddle.

Limes are also used in cerviche. In this seafood dish fish, shrimp, octopus, clams are marinated in lime juice to 'cook' them. Peppers and cilantro enhance the flavour.

Mexican beer is usually served with a wedge of lime. No one knows when or why this tradition began but a traditional drink called michelada seems to be the source. It is a drink of beer mixed with lime juice, sauces, and tomato or clamato juices. We enjoyed many different brands of Mexican beer and even sampled some tequilla although we aren't hard liquor drinkers.

At the Mayaland Resort, I tried a new vegetable called jicama. It was served in a salad and someone told me it tasted like a radish. It didn't. The texture is the same but the flavour is very mild.

Breads served at dinner in most Mexican restaurants are tasty morsels that melt in the mouth. They are smaller versions of bolillo, a traditional Mexican bread. They are often made with sourdough or a variety of savoury additions such as tomatoes and peppers. Bolillo was used to make our sandwiches when we enjoyed a box lunch on our ride from Cancun to Chichen Itza.

Avocados are another fruit which seems tastier in Mexico. It is served as guacomole, of course, but also in salads and in soups and is always perfectly fresh, unlike the rock-hard versions we see in Canada.

As with any cuisine, the number of delicious dishes depend on creative cooks who use the basics of Mexican cuisine to prepare food that excites the taste buds. Only a visit to this friendly country would satisfy a craving for authentic dishes made in new and different ways.